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She wont' quit smokin....
Well I'm all out of ideas. I tried a heavier oil, I've tried stop leak and can't seem to figure out what's goin on. I'm gonna tear into it this weekend and see if I can figure out what's wrong. boy it'd be nice if I could find another engine to put in.....but I guess I'll just go buy another car this weekend so I've got something to drive.... How much would it cost to do a total rebuild keeping it stock, well I guess before that how much should I rebuild. It's got a hair over a hundred thousand on it. Would it need a new crank and cam? how bout all the bearings in there? How much for new pistons and cylinders? I need help.....
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Black 72 1.7 914 http://www.pelicanparts.com/gallery/Biggy72/ WSU Formula SAE Drivetrain team leader/ Suspension team http://www.mme.wsu.edu/~sae/ |
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10-20-2003, 06:03 PM
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Have you tried the patch?? Sorry, I couldnt resist. Theres one in every crowd right? In all seriousness, you shouldnt need a new crank or pistons for all that matters, just replace the rings, hone the cylinders, get a valve job and have the heads checked, do not align bore the block as it is not needed on a type 4, replace the bearings and check your cam for wear along with the lifters, replace if needed, (I would) and put it all together with a new gasket set and run it. If it is carbed, you can change the cam to a more performance oriented one and then lighten the flywheel and gain a few ponies. Good luck.
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http://www.pelicanparts.com/gallery/skline It's easier to get forgiveness than it is to get permission. 75 Slantnose V8 03 S-10 Extended cab stepside in Yellow 72 914 Parts car |
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10-20-2003, 07:27 PM
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The cams tend to wear heavily in Type IV motors; you usually need a new cam and lifters.
If the smoking is out the tailpipe, you can probably get away with doing a "top end" rebuild--for a while. The fresh valve job (cut on seats and valves) will help restore full power as well, though that can sometimes be hard on the old bottom end... It usually makes sense just to tear the whole thing down. Follow the Wilson book--it's pretty good as far as I can tell, though it is confusing in one or two spots. (Notably the cam/crank gear timing. It's easy to mix up the Type I/II/III with the Type IV instructions in that section, but they are different.) Crank and rods will probably need some machine work, but in general are reuseable. Pistons and cylinders often are but also can easily be out of spec. Cam and lifters generally need replacing, gaskets and bearings are always replaced... --DD
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Pelican Parts 914 Tech Support A few pics of my car: http://www.pelicanparts.com/gallery/Dave_Darling |
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10-20-2003, 07:51 PM
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so where can I get all of these things?
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Black 72 1.7 914 http://www.pelicanparts.com/gallery/Biggy72/ WSU Formula SAE Drivetrain team leader/ Suspension team http://www.mme.wsu.edu/~sae/ |
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10-21-2003, 06:21 PM
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914 Geek
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Do you really have to ask???
 http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/shopcart/9144/por_9144_engine_main.htm http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/shopcart/9144/por_9144_piston_main.htm http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/shopcart/9144/por_9144_cylhds_main.htm --DD
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Pelican Parts 914 Tech Support A few pics of my car: http://www.pelicanparts.com/gallery/Dave_Darling |
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10-21-2003, 06:50 PM
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sorry dave...
so the web cam is the same as the original just a couple hundred cheaper?
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Black 72 1.7 914 http://www.pelicanparts.com/gallery/Biggy72/ WSU Formula SAE Drivetrain team leader/ Suspension team http://www.mme.wsu.edu/~sae/ |
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10-21-2003, 07:18 PM
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1972 Porsche 914 1.7 liter
1974, 1974 Porsche 914, 914 5.0 liter, 2.0 liter
74 Porsche 914 2.0 
