Bullet (rust) proof paint?

cruiksdr · 11-29-2003, 08:22 AM

I've seen a lot of posts on various aspects of the paint job and rust proofing, but not excactly what I'm looking for.

POR15 looks like a good solution for all the under parts of the car, but what I'd be interested in, is a rust stopping/inhibiting paint that I can use for the whole car in a factory color.

I live in the great lake region, and although I go to great lengths to keep my car dry, it's just not possible. Much of the rust repair I did five years ago is already rusting out again. I just got a rolling chasis for a body swap, and I want to paint it so I can forget it!

My greatest fear (especially right now) -- hit pot hole, and winky breaks in half

Hope to solve this with the transplant, but I don't want to have to worry about it anymore after that. A friend out here painted his whole car with black por15, and it looks great and seems to be pretty rust proof (by 914 standards), but my new chasis still has it's original red, and I'd like to keep that color.

Thoughts?

Dave at Pelican Parts · Dave at Pelican Parts's Garage

Only way I know of to do that is to paint your "bullet-proof" paint, sand it smooth, then paint factory paint over the top of it.

Actually, a perfect "regular" paint job should not leave any way for rust to get into the metal. All of it should be covered, which will prevent oxygen from getting at the steel and attacking it. The problem is that perfection is awfully hard to come by. And to maintain.

Note that any rust left underneath the paint will continue to grow, so if you don't get out every last bit you will see the rust come back. I suspect that may be what happened to your old car....

--DD

M. Hendrix · 11-29-2003, 10:01 AM

If you are rich, and a nut, there are alternatives.

have all the repairs done, and I am not sure of the company name (Detroit anyhow) that does a three step process that is basically like chemical galvanizing... I think someone pointed out a few weeks back... right here.

Might wanna start searching for 'dipping'.

The third stage was an epoxy coating of some sort.

M

914GT · 11-29-2003, 03:57 PM

As Dave said, a good paint job protects the exterior of the car from rust. There's no rust inhibitor that you can apply over an existing finish. Nothing on the outside will protect from rust coming from the inside. For that you will have to inspect and clean the inside surfaces and then apply your favorite coating or corrosion inhibitor. POR15 or 2-part epoxy primer is good for inside the longitudinals, doors, etc. Rocker spray, undercoating, or truck bed liner is good inside the fender wells and exposed areas under the car. I think it would be good if you gave your car a thorough inspection in all the areas notorious for rust on 914s, then clean, wire brush, etc. and apply rust converter and coating, and make sure all water can drain out. Trapped water, salt, and battery acid cause most of the rust.

cruiksdr · 11-30-2003, 09:43 AM

If I use POR15 on all the bare metal and rust areas (after cleaning, etc.), can it be topcoated when the car is painted? I'll be working with a bare chasis, and I'd like to get the whole thing, inside and out, shot at the same time with the same color. I'm thinking, rust paint in all places noted above to stop any current and minimize future rust, and then take it in for the paint and have them shoot the whole car.

914GT · 11-30-2003, 01:57 PM

For the exterior I'd use the recommended primer for the paint system you plan to go with. Typical example - bare metal covered with epoxy primer, followed by 2K primer/surfacer, than urethane single-stage or BC/CC. POR15 is fine for chassis and internal areas but I'd stick with the primers called out by your paint brand for the rest.