Engine Quote

[D7N7MASTER]

Hi All - Need your opinions.

Just got a quote back for upgrading my 2.0 to 2.2. Parts come to $2400. Labor comes to $1900.
Reasonable???
Thanx, G

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

Depends on what all will be done. If this is a build-up of a 2.0 four-cylinder with a longer stroke and possibly larger cylinders, then it sounds OK for a drive-in-and-drive-out deal.

If it's removing your 2.0 Four and installing a 2.2 Six, I'd call it a screaming deal...

--DD

[D7N7MASTER]

Actually that quote doesn't include removal or installation. I remove the engine, remove induction, engine tin, exhaust, etc. I deliver longblock to their shop. They build me a 2.2 using a 76mm stroker crank, etc. Without spilling the beans, lets just say their in Orange, Ca.

[sammyg2]

Couldn't be FAT performance, could it?

Are they reusing your pistons/cylinders with shorter rods or using your rods with different pistons?

[D7N7MASTER]

Wow... OK. Anybody running their engines???

[cnavarro]

I have one customer who is going to have their 102 x 78 built by FAT sometime around the first of the year. Will be FAT's first Nickies equipped engine. The owner, I think it's Greg, is a good guy, spoken to him on a few occassions. They have been building /4s for a long time and I've never heard anything bad. Your 96 x 76 should be a nice little warmed up combo for your teener.

Charles Navarro
LN Engineering
http://www.LNengineering.com
Aircooled Precision Performance

[Zeke]

FAT is expensive. You get what you pay for. Recently, one of their rebuilds failed due to some bad lfters. Reportedly, they didn't even flinch on the re-do. That's a good feeling. I didn't use Fat, although I sat in Greg's office and he ran the whole thing down for me. Even took me on a shop tour.

Very good people, but there are others out there. Most of the machining is done by RIMCO no matter who is doing the assembly. This includes FAT last time I checked.

Let me put things into perspective. It takes about 8 hours to completely assemble a TypeIV motor. At shop rates, that's ABOUT $400 depending on the rate. That doesn't include one part or gasket. Just the labor. The rest is for the name and the knowledge.

BTW, FAT's quote to me for a 2.0 with some head work, was a tad over $3000. I did it myself for less than $2000 including $1000 in head work.

[CarreraS2]

I had my '74 2.0 done by FAT many years ago. I don't remember it being that expensive. (I took the engine out and stripped it down to longblock, and dropped it off at FAT). I recall calculating how much it would cost to do it myself v. FAT, and there wasn't all that much difference. The charge to "assemble engine," for example, was $350.

It was a great engine - very smooth, great power (stock FI, Euro pistons), well balanced. Didn't leak, either! I had absolutely no complaints.

They were also very cool about me dropping by to check it out during the process, explaining exactly what they were doing, and why.

An A+ experience for me, all the way around.

[MXMARK]

Hi, I have a fat 103.5mm X 76mm counterweighted it is the second one they have done for me. the first one was a 2l crank with the 103 cylinders with my 1.7. It ran well I just wanted more. I have a 2.0l 6 in the garage but I did not have the money for the accessories to put it in so I did the 2.5L(I think) 4 FAT motor. Very happy with the motor. I sent the motor down with all the sheet metal attached. When I got the motor back the sheet metal looked new. Was not to bad of a price. Would I do it a third time. Yes. I need to get an oil cooler but still drive it, Just not on 103 degree days. Thanks I hope this helps Mark (no time to DIY on rebuild)

[D7N7MASTER]

Thanks. I've been collecting quotes to better understand the difference between a $3000.- and a $6000.- Type4 engine. There are a lot of choices. Are Nikkies worth the cost???

[Jake Raby]

FAT are a group of good guys.... we are friendly competitors.

They are cheaper than I am, but we use different components to make our power. (that must be how they can make a 2.2 for 50% of the parts cost that I do)

I try to stay far away from the stock rods on a any stroker, piston speeds are extreme and the rod ratio is out of whack in my opinion. its okay for an off road engine, but thats about all. They are also shorter, heavier and weaker than the H Beams that we use. We all have different ways of making our power.

BTW, we have all been plagued by bad lifters this year... I even lost one engine, but some shops lost 10-15 because they didn't inspect the lifters closely enough on install.

From now on we ONLY use LN Ceramic lifters in all our engines. I'm the only company that chooses not to tolerate the CHANCE of a bad lifter, or incompatibility!

BTW.... Nickies are worth TWICE their cost for what they do for the engine. I have used more than anyone in the world and can attest to their design, durability and overall benefit!

[D7N7MASTER]

Thanks for all your insight - and straight up "tell it like it is" approach. (especially Jake...) For Christmas I asked Santa to leave me a Raby's 2270 w/ nickies that runs strong with D-Jet. Or... How about a 2165 w/ nickies that runs strong with D-Jet. Is there a D-Jet theme here???
Happy Holidays & Merry Christmas to all!!!~

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

I think "Raby motor" and "with D-jet" are contradictory statements....

--DD

[Jake Raby]

Yep............ No more "D" for me.... Not after 12/31/2003!!!!!!!!

[D7N7MASTER]

...so what happens after 12/31/03? Armageddon???

[Jake Raby]

Basically, atleast here in my shop. Everything changes. Making changes I have wanted to make for 5 years.