Which socket should I use to remove axle nut?
 

Would the Sears 30mm, 12 point be ok or would this GM 30mm Deep 1/2'' Drive Axle Nut Socket be better. I don't really like 12 point sockets.

I recomend the 6 tp version and a 5 ft pipe or impact air wrench. I prefer the pipe, seems less brutal. If it is resistant, put a torch to it till it gets smokin hot

Five feet? I just bought a 25" breaker bar - won't that do it?

Sometimes. Maybe. If you're built like a tank...

Actually, removing the cotter pin and heating the nut up with a torch might make 25" a long enough lever, but I would have the "cheater" pipe ready just in case. Also, pounding on the back of the socket with a mallet (hit as if you were trying to drive the stub axle out) can help loosen things up sometimes as long as you are applying force at the same time.

--DD

I dont even mess around with all that. the 5 ft pipe makes easy work of VW flywheels, vw bug, bus and 914 axle nuts.; I even use the pipe to change tires (removal only) try is once and you'll give it a name. kinda like a pet

3/4 in air impact wrenches are a great investment. Even the cheap ones I have used have put out quite a bit of torque.

John

Harbor freight and Sears offer an electric impact for those who lack compressor access

DD is correct ,Use a Cheater bar. Have the Biggest Guy you Know Lean on it, just pushing down not bouncing on it. Then Hit the Breaker Bar at the pivot point where the socket is attached. This should knock it lose.Steve

My brother's a powerlifter/accountant - maybe I'll get him to loosen it up for me.

My was called my ****'n pipe. Cause I'd say "****" everything I pushed on it...

i just got my dad a 7.5 amp electric half inch impact wrench. 240 lbs of torque baby!

240 ft/lbs??? After breaking 2 Snap-on 1/2" wrenches with 4 ft pipes attached to them, no way! A 3/4" drive Ingersall Rand impact with 1000 lbs of torque did the trick. Funny thing is that the drivers side came off without much effort. PO must have hauled some BIIIGG people around.

Keith

wait, are yall talking aobut the nut that holds the rear axels on? Cause if yuo are, Me and my father could use some help geting it off. Ive read jsut to use a cheater bar and get a big guy to lean on it, but how do we keep the wheel from turning. We're thinking about building a rig for it. Then just get the guy whose gonna paint the car to break it off. Im pretty sure hes big enough, his hand covers 90% of my chest, and well....he right strong.

Put the car on the ground. Steve

i knew that. Thanks man.

Step up to the 3/4" stuff. The good stuff (Snap-on, Mac, Matco) is nice but very $$$. Overseas stuff works OK.

Sears has some 3/4" stuff too.

Ok, everybody
Ohm...heat, beat, repeat, heat, beat, repeat...ohm
The 914 mantra

Then cut the beyatch off

Leave the wheel on the ground and you can turn it without any problem.

I must have been lucky, I took off both castle nuts with a 2 ft
breaker bar and a 30mm axle nut socket ($8.99 from Pep boys)
and didn't have any trouble. But I sure was expecting some after
reading these posts.

I hope you're luck is as good.

john

I use a 2 ft. breaker bar on my axle nuts. But I can bench press 300 lbs....Come on now, admit it, how many of you would like to be young and stupid again?

Also, IMHO, use a 6 point. More solid for the type of torque we're talking about.