V-6 conversion

[sking]

is there anyone out there that has completed a conversion of a 4.3L V-6. I want to do it but don't know what i need, besides the engine?
shawn

[lapuwali]

You'll need the same things anyone doing any engine swap needs: an adapter plate to connect the engine to the bellhousing, a flywheel machined to bolt up to the new crankshaft and still work with the 914 starter and clutch assembly, engine mounts, an exhaust, and a cooling system. For the first two, contact Kennedy Engineered Products, who has parts to connect nearly every engine imaginable to the 914 gearbox. The cooling system can be provided by any of the V8 conversion vendors (Renegade, Rod Simpson, et al). For the rest you're likely on your own.

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

Renegade is supposed to have the best cooling setup. But don't tell them it's for a V6; they really dislike the V6 swaps.

--DD

[914GT]

IMO, if you're going water-cooled you should go V8. A V6 will not be nearly as smooth, has less power, and the weight difference is not that much. Maybe one advantage is that you can use a stock water pump and balancer but there still may not be enough room. I'd definitely recommend careful balancing of a V6. Previous posts have discussed the V6's torque and compatibility with the stock 901 transaxle. I know an excellent alternative to the mechanical water pump most go with.

[mike mueller]

I like the idea of the V6 in a 914...sure for a few dollars more you could have a V8, but in the end, if done right, you won't miss those 2 extra cylinders much

There is a 4.3 V6 powered 914 running around in the SF Bay area, very nice install, only of the nicest and cleanest conversions I've ever seen, the V6 looks like it "belongs" there in the engine compartment

as for myself, I wanted a bigger motor, but I decided to keep it "kraut-powered" by using a VR6 from a Corrado/Jetta

So far I only have the engine....I'll be ordering the flywheel and adapter plate in the next few weeks

[sking]

can anyone give me or tell me where i can get some type of list of things i'll need for the swap? really need help!!!!!
thanks shawn

[lapuwali]

I'm not sure what more you want other than the list already given. Call up Kennedy and ask about an adapter and flywheel. If they don't have it, you'll need to get it made. You'll need to get engine mounts made. This is not going to be an off-the-shelf kind of swap. If you want to just buy a set of parts to assemble, use a V8 or a 911 engine. If you're going to insist on doing something "different", then either learn how to fabricate yourself, or find someone else who can. Talk to local racing shops about who they go to for fabrication work.

[914GT]

Here's a list of parts you might need or want (prices deleted) courtesy of Desert Hybrids. There are different kits depending on engine, transaxle, clutch combination. I went with a much-simpler remote electric water pump that I think is superior to a mechanical pump for 914 conversions.

* Motor Mount Bar (will handle 400+ ft. lbs. of engine torque)
* Rubber Motor Mounts - (2 required)
* Harmonic Balancer (brand new, machined with belt grooves)
* Harmonic Balancer Spacer
* Timing Marker Kit
* Water Pump Housing (complete, fittings TIG welded to housing)
* Water Pump Impeller (brand new, Chrysler big-block, hi-flow)
* Water Pump Pulley (brand new, machined to fit Chrylser impeller)
* Water Pump Mount (CNC machined, 6061 T-6)
* Water Pump Drive Belt
* Block Water Pump Hose Fittings Assemblies ( TIG welded) - (2 required, 1 R & 1 L)
* Coolant Filler (TIG welded aluminum)
* Thermostat Housing(chrome, O-ring style)
* Coolant Hose, 3/4" (Gates Green Stripe Heavy Duty)
* Coolant Hose, 1" (Gates Green Stripe Heavy Duty)
* Throttle Cable Bushing/Bracket Assy.
* Radiator (4-core, high efficiency, cross-flow)
* Radiator Fan Shroud (set-up for dual electric fans)
* Electric Cooling Fan (880 CFM) (2 required)
* Adjustable Fan Control Temperature Sensor
* Radiator Mounting Frame & Clamps
* Alternator Mount (CNC machined, 6061 T-6)
* Alternator Brace (CNC laser cut)
* Alternator Drive Belt
Clutch Arm Extender (for use with 200mm Engine Adapter Kit)
* Rear Transaxle Mounting Adapters - (2 required)
915 Transaxle Mount - (CNC laser cut, precision welded)
901 Engine Adapter Kit, 9" Stage II - Pre '86 (adapter plate, flywheel, pressure plate, clutch disc, to bearing, pilot bearing, hardware kit)
*901 Engine Adapter Kit, 9" Stage III - Pre '86 (adapter plate, flywheel, pressure plate, clutch disc, to bearing, pilot bearing, hardware kit)
901 Engine Adapter Kit, 9" Stage II - '86+ & LS-1 (adapter plate, flywheel, pressure plate, clutch disc, to bearing, pilot bearing, hardware kit)
901 Engine Adapter Kit, 9" Stage III - '86+ & LS-1 (adapter plate, flywheel, pressure plate, clutch disc, to bearing, pilot bearing, hardware kit)
915 Engine Adapter Kit, Pre '86 (adapter plate, flywheel, pressure plate, clutch disc, to bearing, pilot bearing, hardware kit)

915 Engine Adapter Kit, '86+ & LS-1 (adapter plate, flywheel, pressure plate, clutch disc, to bearing, pilot bearingm hardware kit)
915 Shift Linkage
915 Hub Spacers
915 CV/Axle Spacers
915/914 Clutch Cable Mount
Starter (12 volt, high torque gear reduction, light weight) -
914 Chassis Stiffening Kit
914 Trailing Arm Boxing Kit

[roadtrp204]

The GM 4.3L V6 is very similair to the later one piece rear main seal 350 (5.7L) V8. It is basically the V8 minus the two center cylinders. It has the same bore/storke, bellhousing configuration, and the water pump. The best reason for using this engine, as mentioned, is the clearance for the water pump and harmonic balancer. I have also done some reading on the 4.3, the crank is offset to allow the firing order to be balanced, this fixed the uneveness and vibrations inherient in a V6 engine configuration. The 4.3 has less less torque and can be made into to run in the high rpm range, factory roller cam, (good for the transmission).

What am I getting at here? Basically you could use most of the conversion parts for the 350 and not have to worry about clearance issues with the front of engine.

I also met a guy local to me that had a 4.3 conversion. He said he had had it for a few years without problem and loved it. Whatever that's worth.

My opinion would be to get the trans adaptor from Kennedy Engineering www.kennedyeng.com and the cooling parts from Renegade Hybrids www.renegadehybrids.com . Build the 4.3 to run in around the same rpm range as the type 4 and if you haven't done it already convert to 5 lugs and 911 brakes.

[skline]

Ok, I guess I need to chime in here too. I was going to do a 6 conversion and the 4.3 is the engine to use. The water pump and everything is fine. You will not need any of the typical V8 conversion parts like we did. The engine is much shorter and fits right in using the stock water pump. The only thing you will need is an adapter plate, mount bar (Maybe custom made) and then a radiator and cooling hoses. Dont scrimp on the hoses as the water has to come from the front of the car to the rear and back. As mentioned earlier, the engine is basically the same one pice rear seal block with 2 cylinders cut off. The water pump from the 350 and timing cover is all the same. It saved GM tons in tooling. Contact Kennedy and get the adapter, clutch, pressure plate and flywheel and go from there. I also recommend the Renegade radiator but do tell them its for a 6 conversion. They will give you any advice you want to know. The stock 4.3 liter is 185 HP but with minor mods it will push the 275 mark really easy. It in my opinion its the perfect choice for a 6 conversion.

[sking]

I would like to just thank everyone for the info. It helped alot.
Shawn

[cshogen]

I really like this idea myself. So would it be better to use the FI that some of the newer engines came with or a carb? It would be nice to keep it simple but if it would run better I would use the FI. I saw a bunch of complete 4.3's on e-bay for fairly cheap. This would be an awesome setup.

[914GT]

Chris,
I think it would be nice to use the TBI FI used on the Chevy V6 since at least 1988 or so. It's going to be a more-complex installation with all the crank/cam position, O2, and other sensors used by the engine control computer. Much more involved than with a carburetor. Also this system was designed for emissions control and fuel economy, and not performance. But for a daily driver, those are good things to consider anyway. I have no idea about the clearance using the stock aluminum intake and TBI to the engine lid but that may be OK. It would be challenging project for sure.

If a V6 stock water pump and serpentine belt drive clears the firewall - cool. But... to replace the water pump *may* require dropping the engine to get at it. I like my electric pump as I can remove it in 10 minutes, and have a spare kit for it. But it's good for at least 5000 hours and I don't worry about it.

[cshogen]

Very interesting info Guy. Sorry to glom on to your thread sking, but maybe it will help you too. I initially was looking into a newer japanese conversion. The Nissan 3.0 seems to be a good match, and there is a guy named Chris on the boards who did a really nice one. Problem for me is that he had to cut some stuff out of the engine bay to fit it in with the stock FI (shock tower reinforcements I think) and I really don't want to do that. I'm OK with the radiator hole up front, but I'd rather leave the other stuff intact. Sounds like the GM 6 cylinders are bolt-in with very few sheet metal mods.