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914zim's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: New Berlin, WI
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Repairing a slipping clutch...estimates?

Gentlemen:

I'm trying to get a feel for how much repairing the slipping clutch in my '76 914 would cost.
I have not looked into it in any great detail yet, but I'm sure I'll need to replace clutch, seals, cable, etc., basically, the whole mess (based on a little searching). It's not slipping too badly, but my son and I almost got run over by a dickhead in a huge SUV while I was trying to get up a hill with the clutch slipping. Pretty scary!

Can anyone give me a rough idea as to how much it might cost to do the repair correctly myself?
Any idea of hours to complete would be helpful too.

I'm trying to decide which project I'm gonna work on this winter. It's between fixing the slipping clutch on my 914 or putting my rebuilt engine into my '71 BMW 2002. I think I know what answer I'll get from this board!

To be honest, it'll probably come down to cost. I still need to get some Webers and eventually a 5 speed tranny for the 2002, so I'm thinking the 914 repair might be cheaper?

Any help/advice is appreciated!

Thanks,
Andy...

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Old 10-12-2004, 09:29 AM
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Doing it yourself I'd say a maybe a couple hundred bucks, not taking the time here to go through the PP parts catalog. You'll replace the clutch disk and check/resurface the flywheel and pressure plate. Replace the rear engine and front transaxle seal. Replace the fork pivot bushing, throwout bearing, and might as well replace the shifter bushings and shifter/output shaft seals while you're at it. I'd fix the 914 first so you have a running car (or backup) before tackling the bigger BMW project.
Old 10-12-2004, 09:49 AM
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pelican sells new clutch kits but i think they're at least 300 or so. i have the same problem and will be buying one from pelican before winter so i can get it installed over the winter. there is also a technical article on how to do it yourself here on pelican also.

scotty
Old 10-12-2004, 09:53 AM
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clutch job should take around 3 hours (includes time to stop for a beer, or two)...

replacement minimum:

clutch disc
pressure plate
t/o bearing
clutch cable
flywheel seal
trans mainshaft seal
cv joint gaskets
ground strap (while it's right there and fairly inexpensive
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Old 10-12-2004, 11:30 AM
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3 hours?! I can't even dream it through in three hours. I guess that assumes engine already out and all the proper equipment/ tools to do everything only one time. It always takes me three times- once to learn it and screw up. Once to fix whatever I screwed up. The third try is usually worth the effort to be certain it actually IS right.
Maybe Jason has a little more experience?
Last time (third try) took about 8 hours for me.
I had this done for me once, too. With engine dropping, it ran about $400, but that was 10 years ago, and they did not use as good a pressure plate.
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Old 10-12-2004, 12:18 PM
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That's how long it took me to do my last 914 clutch...I only pull the trans though...
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1989 Chevy Silverado 3500 - 454TBI, 4x4, 8 gallons/mile
Old 10-12-2004, 12:20 PM
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Doing a 914 clutch is rather easy. 3 hours is about right for someone who has done it before.

take a look at this..
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/914_clutch_replace/914_clutch_replace1.htm
Old 10-12-2004, 12:53 PM
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I'll add in for one more vote in the 3 hour catagory. Just looking at the pics on the post Jared posted is how i did it. Except i use the jack inder the motor to adjust the angle and some cardboard on my knees while i site on by butt with my knees in front of me supporting the underside of the trans. Its a bit more labor, but i've never liked ballancing the trans on a jack.
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Old 10-12-2004, 02:53 PM
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My first clutch job (and only) took about 4 hours of work and 4 hours of clean up. . . You can do it yourself, get the alignment tool and a small torque wrench. I only slid the transaxel back about 6 inches due to my subframe clearance issues. If I could drop the transaxel completely off it would have gone much faster.
Old 10-12-2004, 05:36 PM
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more...

Thanks guys for the replies.
I'm pretty sure my clutch is slipping because my 914 sat for 4 years without being started and the seals are dried up, allowing oil to get on the clutch disk. Does this sound right?
I didn't realize that continuing to run it like it is could cause damage to the flywheel, but it makes sense I guess.
Since this would be a winter project, I'm not in a big hurry to get it done. As long as it was driveable come spring (May). I definately will not be driving it on the WI winter roads (salt). The cost is probably biggest reason to do the 914, especially if it'll cost around $350. I'm sure the 2002 project would be more money and more time as well.
To tell the truth, I kinda wanted to do the 914 repair first (over 2002 engine swap) anyway since I'm really enjoying the 914, but the 2002 project has been sitting for 2 years now. The 914 sort of fell in my lap last summer and I've been spending most of my time and money on it.

Thanks again guys!
Andy...
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Old 10-13-2004, 09:31 AM
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You should get used to spending most of your time and money on it...
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Old 10-13-2004, 09:32 AM
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$200 new flywheel
$250 Clutch kit (including hardware and shipping)
$10 new clutch cable
After that, I justified getting a air compressor because of bad luch on getting the bolts off the cltuch assembly.

I lucked out on the parts. Since then ( 1 yr ago), the parts have gone up. Go with the 6 spring.

Easy project.
BB
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Old 10-16-2004, 04:56 PM
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If you turn the Flywheel you may need a spacer for the cable.

Also get:
Main Seal
input shaft seal
Bushing for throw out arm
Old 10-16-2004, 05:53 PM
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If you turn the flywheel, know the before and after measurements. You need to shim under the throwout arm ball pivot the same amount.

You will also need muffler gaskets...and a new charge of tranny fluid.

I would also replace the pilot bearing in the flywheel.
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Old 10-17-2004, 06:46 AM
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I replaced my clutch this weekend.
It took about 6 hours, but there were complications. The boot on the right side axle, wheel end, had fallen apart. The bolts holding the CV joint into the wheel hub were loose. I had to take the transmission end CV off to get a new boot on there,
It's funny, I put a new CV and boot on there about 6 months ago when I replaced wheel bearings in that side. I'm guessing I could not get the CV out of the hub because the dowell pins are started to shear and jammed it in tight. Oh well.

The clutch was a pretty easy job. All I replaced was the friction disc and pressure plate and did it with the engine in the car. I know you all hate the idea of not replacing everything in sight "while you're in there" but I have often done more harm than good putting in cheap after market parts when there was nothing wrong with original. If it ain't leaking.......

Oh, hey, look at this exhaust system. Goes against all that is good and proper in the design of automotive exhaust sytems. I made the heat exchangers and had Ronny at "Ronnys Muffler and Brakes" do whatever he wanted from there. Sounds good, doesn't seem to hurt performance.

Old 10-18-2004, 12:25 PM
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