Trunk Shock Kit Install

1bad914 · 10-23-2002, 03:46 AM

I installed a trunk strut kit this past weekend. It works great and is an easy install. I did not use the supplied screws for the upper brackets due to the difficulty of intalling such a large screw in such a small hole. I used self tapping screws, it was a snap. It took less than 45 minutes to install. Here is a pic.

RustyWa · RustyWa's Garage

How about some close-ups of the connections?

thesey914 · 10-23-2002, 12:17 PM

I would be worried that self tappers would just pull out. There is quite a considerable force in these struts.

boxstr · 10-23-2002, 07:23 PM

The Original CAMP914 rear trunk shox kit has both types of brackets. Personally I like the early type that mount to the trunk pivot arm. It is up to each 914 owner to make there choice.
Craig C. Laughlin CAMP914

1bad914 · 10-24-2002, 03:35 AM

I also am wondering about the strength of the the screws, I plan on keeping a close eye out for any movement. I'll post some other pics tonight, oops it will have to be this weekend, I forgot that I put the car in storage this past weekend. As a matter of fact the pic above was taken while on the tow dolly. The problem with the supplied screws was that the recomended hole was 5/32 if memory serves me right and the screws are 1/4 inch. I drilled the hole and attempted to use the supplied screws but ended up just stripping the screws. I tried it by hand and with a drill, no go. As far as the self tappers are concerned, I think they will hold, I pr-drilled a small pilot hole and then installed them, they are going thru two layers of thick metal, they should hold.

LarryP · 10-24-2002, 05:42 AM

I have seen a couple of strut kits from time to time. Which one did you pick, and is there some advantage to this rather than the stock torsion bar and rollers?

Dave at Pelican Parts · Dave at Pelican Parts's Garage

You get rid of the torsion bars and rollers. That's the biggest advantage! You'd see that quickly if you ever tried to mess with the torsion bars...

I think that the trunk shock setup puts less stress on the pivot as well, which can only be good for its lifespan. Note that the pivot is a reasonably common failure point in these cars...

I like the kit that Pelican sells, but I'm probably just a tiny bit biased...

--DD

boxstr · 10-24-2002, 07:56 AM

Dave is spot on, it also helps to clean up the engine bay. Besides the advantage of less stress on the rear hood hinge bolts.
All of the kits on the market are very similar, $$ only difference that I have seen.
Craig C. Laughlin CAMP914

Rot 911 · 10-24-2002, 08:23 AM

Of course if you just bought a REAL Porsche you would discover both the trunk and engine lid come standard with struts to hold the lids up. Whoo Hoo! I just couldn't resist!

JWest · 10-24-2002, 08:47 AM

Yes, but putting the front hood shocks in a glorified Bug.. oops I mean 911, is about as much fun as putting the torsion bars back on the 914 (real sports car) lid.

Rot 911 · 10-24-2002, 10:02 AM

James, 14 minutes to respond? You are slowing down in your old age!

JWest · 10-24-2002, 10:44 AM

LOL

Special K · 10-24-2002, 10:05 PM

How many lbs. pressure are the struts? I've already got the S/S hardware and didn't want to over/under do the struts. I personally think that struts are the way to go.

Special K · 10-24-2002, 10:08 PM

Oh yeah, and the full extended lenght.

Thanks!!

1bad914 · 10-25-2002, 03:04 AM

I bought this kit thru ebay from a guy by the name of Ken Schipper. I had planned on buying it from Pelican, but his price was less. Don't worry I spend most of my 914 money at Pelican. I believe that you need to support the company that hosts this forum! Anyways, I'm not sure what strength strut is used or what it's length is, but after seeing way to many hinge points destroyed by the tension rods, there was no dought I was going with the struts.

kumaaz · 10-21-2004, 02:59 PM

What am I missing? I installed the expensive strut kit and they were way to strong. It took both hands and all my weight to pull down the trunk. They also started to bend the trunk gutter to which they were attached. I had to send them back. I notice that yours are attached to the underside of the lid wereas mine went directly to the hinge, but that shouldn't matter.

LarryP · 10-22-2004, 04:21 AM

Did you cut a channel in the lower trunk seal lip on each side for the strut to nestle into? If so, how far from the front trunk edge is your strut mounted?

kumaaz · 10-22-2004, 05:57 AM

I'm not sure what you mean by a channel. The kit came with detailed instructions that had one end of the strut bolted to the hinge with a spacer, and the other to an angle clip that mounted under the gutter with 2 bolts. The dimension for the clip was something like 13 7/8" forward of the rear of the trunk. Trying to exercise the strut veetically on the ground ti would take almost all your weight to get it strated and force it down. The company I bought it from was fine to deal with and they had no problem taking them back. The guy told me the struts were actually from the rear hatch of a VW Rabbit and that if they were too strong, I could try to get some used ones, which I did. But these, which I haven't installed yet, seem just as strong as the kit ones. Also, I really didn't like that angle clip under the gutter. If I put the struts in again, I plan to used 1" square stock under the gutter to attach the strut to. This will spread the load back to the body. The probem is still that they seem way to strong.

boxstr · 10-22-2004, 06:01 AM

I have a pic of the CAMP 914 rear trunk kit in my 914. It is installed in the channel on each side with 2 screws.
This is a very simple upgrade and can be done in a half hour.
I have done over 20 of these using the CAMP 914 rear trunk shox kit and I have found that the hardest thing is getting the tension rods out of the engine compartment.

Kumazz, I am curious, Did you remove the tension rods before you installed the trunk shox kit? Or were they still on the car?

Craig

boxstr · 10-22-2004, 06:05 AM

Hers the pic I wanted.