Electrical problems after collision

[Ascaris]

Hope you guys can help.

1 month after finishing a 2 year restoration of my '75 1.8L, I met Bambi's dad doing about 60 mph on the highway.

Besides being exceedingly lucky to be alive, I also got away with very little damage, considering.

The front trunk lid was totally smashed in, both headlight assemblies were sheared off, the right fog light was broken, and the drivers door mirror had the glass broken in it. Didn't touch anything else on the car (the deer went up and over the top).

Now the odd thing. I also lost power to my brake lights, turn signals, wipers, and some instruments. The fuse was burned out and when I replace it, it just fries instantly when I turn the key so I've got a short somewhere caused by the crash.

The things that were broken in the crash (headlights and fog lights) all work fine. Side markers and hazard are fine too).

I've checked for a broken bulb or connection in the turn signals and also detached the brake light switch under the brake pedal (thinking I might have broken it when stomping so hard) all to no avail. The only things I haven't done are pull the steering wheel apart to check the turnsignal/wiper switches there and to pull the wiper moter.

Anyone have any suggestions? This one just has me stumped since there isn't any wiring that should effect these things in the damage area.

Help!

Ascaris

[John Rogers]

You don't have to pull the steering wheel apart to check if there are shorts in the column switches, there is a two part plug that is accessible under the center of the steering column. There is a small hole and a screw driver can pop the connectors off. You might want to drop the electrical panel to see if anything got knocked loose on top where you can't normally see. You might want to pull one of the gauges to see if bulbs popped out the back and are shorting against ground. Finally you could pull the connectors on the tail light assemblies to see if the short is in there. Good luck.

[Ascaris]

Thanks John. I already did the taillights and the back of the center console intruments, but didn't know about the plug under the steering collumn. I'll check it out.

Anyone have a quick disconnect like this for the wiper motors? Or any other suggestions?????

Ascaris

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

You're talking about fuse #9. This supplies a lot of things, and you need to isolate parts of the circuit until you find the part that is making the fuse pop.

On my 74, it supplies the tach, fuel gauge, Alt and Oil warning lights. Another sire off of it supplies the brake lights and center console gauges. The third wire coming off of it supplies the emergency flasher switch.

Good luck!

--DD

[Ascaris]

Thanks.

I know my '75 is wired slightly different. The hazard flashers are working fine, but yes some of the instrument console isn't working either.

Keep the suggestions coming and I'll keep poking at it. This is a frustrating one.

BTW. Anyone know where I can buy 16A fuses in BULK? I'm going through a lot of them in my process of elimination.

Ascaris

[scriabin]

I picked up a 'sheet' of the 16 amp fuses at a local VW shop. They are each individually located in pill bubbles like cold medicine pills, two rows of 10. Should be enough, I'd hope!

[Ascaris]

I FOUND IT!

One of the little plastic legs that holds the fuse holder in place had broken and allowed the whole unit to pivot against the metal plate it is attached to. Since fuse #9 has a double spade connector on the back where the others had single, it was the one that contacted and shorted out.

[John Rogers]

Do you have one of the plastic covers for the fuses? My daughter used to hit the fues panel all the time and the fuse holders would get knocked every which way. That is why I suggested pulling the panel down. Glad you found it.