Engine running rough

[dogberry]

My 914 was bought with a barely running engine. I think it is electrical because there is not a nice blue spark. I got a new distributor cap, distributer cap wires, and some zmax engine treatment to see if they helped. Well, no difference. It starts up when I put the petal down and turn the ignition. And it makes a "put put" almost machine gun like sound when it is at idle. I think I might need a new muffler.
Also, my trans grinds like no other so I am going to go ahead soon and buy new synchros and dog teeth. Where is the trans fluid cap? Thanks, Jon

[Bleyseng]

Hi Dogberry,
What year is it? 1973 and on have the sideshifter transmission, 70-72 have the tailshifter trans. First thing to tackle on bad shifting or grinding is adjusting the clutch. Next, install all new shift linkage bushings, cups. These can be ordered online at Pelican Parts for cheap and are usually the reason for "trans grinding". Both tail and side shifters are dependant on these bushings to be in perfect shape to have "normal" shifting.
The "putt, putt" is probably a leaking exhaust manifold at the head. Carefully remove the heat exchangers using TONS of WD40 soaking the nuts and head studs.
Go SLOWLY, remove the nuts using a back and forth motion, then slowing back them off so you don't BREAK OFF a exhaust stud. Get new copper exhaust gaskets and nuts, remove the old gaskets and install the exchangers.
On the weak spark, check the ground stap that goes from the body to the tranny. Take it off and clean it up till it shines. Also check other grounds in the engine bay, do you have FI or carbs.
The trans fluid drain and fill hex nuts are on the passenger side of the tranny just like a bug.Its a large hex wrench I can't remember the size (18mm)?
For more 914 info sign up for the 914 mailing list on Rennlist.com. That is where the 914 gods live. Sometimes one of them Dave Darling replies here. Also, check out the 914 facts on the 914 Club page at http://www.dgi.net/914/
Geoff
76 914 2.0L

[JP Noonan]

Replace the points and condensor and set the dwell and timing. My car did the same when the points were bad.

FWIW I don't like WD-40 for rusted bolts, it works great for its intended purpose 'W'ater 'D'isplacement on ignition systems and boat parts. Try "PB Blaster" for any stuck bolts.

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

I have had luck with Liquid Wrench on stuck fasteners. I've never used PB Blaster, but I'd trust JP's recommendations. However, I have heard from quite a few people that I trust that "Kroyl" is the best penetrating oil.

If the exhaust nuts are stuck (it happens pretty frequently), try hosing them down with PB or Kroyl. Then tap them (not too hard, but definitely tap them!) with a hammer and punch. Then go away and come back the next day. If you do that every day for about three days, most of the troublesome nuts should come off reasonably.

Remember to use the right tools, though! For the stock nuts, a 13mm six-point socket (possibly a deep-well six-point socket) is right. You may need 1/4" drive to fit around some of the heat exchanger parts--the 1/4" ones tend to be smaller overall than the 3/8" drive sockets.

Some aftermarket (and much less expensive) exhaust nuts use a 12mm socket.

More info about the motor and fuel system would help in trying to diagnose the problems. But the points are often a good place to start checking. Look for pitting or dirt, check the dwell. Then set the timing.

--DD

[lm6y]

I have to agree with the recommendation of PB Blaster. I used it on my early 85 944 (don't hate me, I'm looking for a 914 to play with) exhaust nuts when I replaced the clutch. The nuts had never been off, and they came right off with PB Blaster. Just don't get it on ANYTHING plastic, it will eat it up.