'76 2.0 won't run after it did, please help!

smpiers · 06-02-2005, 04:18 AM

Good morning,
I have a '76 2.0L that I have been attempting to get back on the road after sitting for 4 years. Lets start from the beginning. The car ran 2 weeks ago but had an idle that would jump from 1500-2500 rpm. Also, the car would die after 5-10 minutes of running Per the list I put some gasket sealant on the throttle body and hose clamps on the manifolds. No start after that. So, this weekend I went through and adjusted the valves, re-set the timing and made all ignition checks. When I got the car off of the jack stands it started right up! Idled in my driveway for 15 minutes, I set the mixture by ear. I thought I had fixed it! So, I hopped in the car and took it for a test drive. 5 minutes into my drive the car starts to buck (bad TPS?). Then it stalled. I popped the clutch and managed to get a block away from home before it stalled again and wouldn't start. I went through the ignition checks again last night, I have strong spark. The Bosch manual stated the cold start valve might be bad? I did attempt to start the car with the gas pedal to the floor. Sputtered a little, but no start. Here is what I have done to date.
1. Checked FI components for correct resistance, etc. per Bosch manual.
2. Set the valves
3. Set the timing (statically)
4. Set the dwell (point gap actually) to .016"
5. Checked for good spark
6. Checked for fuel in the tank (there is)

Any ideas? I am not sure which direction to go at right now. I did read that dirty trigger points can cause this behavior? They were new 3 years ago but could be dirty. I checked the cylinder head sensor and it appears to be working as well. Would a defective CTS cause the car not to start?

Thanks for your help,
Shane

Alfred1 · 06-02-2005, 01:23 PM

After you adjust the points gap with a feeler gauge, you really should start the car and adjust the dwell and timing (dwell first) with a dwell meter and timing light. Here's an easy to follow troubleshooting guide to test most of your f/i components. If you need more detailed information, you can check out Brad Anders' page. You could also check your fuel filter.

Bruce Allert · 06-02-2005, 01:43 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by smpiers
I checked the cylinder head sensor and it appears to be working as well. Would a defective CTS cause the car not to start?

A broken Cylinder Head Temp Sensor will cause the car to run poorly. Ashorting wire from the CHT will cause it to stop abruptly &, once connection is re-made, will begin running. A total broken wire from/to the CHT will cause the car to not start.

I'd begin with what Alfred said.

Also, check the wire that connects to the AAR. If that shorts it will cause an interuption of gas flow.

Since it starts then quits after warming I'd suspect the CHT. It could be sencing the engine still being cold and causing a TOO Rich mixture. After stalling, and it is still in the Too Rich mode, it won't start until it cools. Check the ohms of the CHT by heating it in the oven. I think Brads site gives the emasurements for hot & cold CHT's. The big plus is CHT's are cheap

Good luck.......... b

Markeydoo · 06-04-2005, 05:44 PM

Check your FI points. My 75 2.0 was doing all sorts of weard things until they were replaced.
Mark

hardflex · 06-05-2005, 02:29 PM

check and clean the fuse in the middle of the relay board. upper front driver side of the engine compartment, under a cover. this fuse goes to the fuel pump, and they tend to get corroded there and could give intermittent problems like you're having. clean fuse and contacts with a small wire brush or steel wool.

I spent a considerable amount of time tyring to figure it out, i felt so studid when i did......