Novice Floorpan Replacement...

eratik · 06-17-2005, 03:23 PM

If you want the back story to this post check out:
Prepping Stripped Car for Body Work.

The story begins two weeks ago with me picking up a 1975 914 for a full restore. I am a complete newbie to all this and am planning to learn my way through a complete restore. Upon removing the interior of my car and scraping out the factory sound proofing material I discovered my floorpan was completely rusting out. I am attaching some pictures but from what I can see my longs, firewalls and wheel wells look to be ok (only some surface rust). I would like to get some feedback based on the pictures submitted below however if all looks good I plan to order my new front and rear floorpan sections from Restoration Design.
I talked with them earilier this week and they claim to have them in stock at $115.00 each half. With all this in mind a have a couple of questions.

1.) Should I wait to get my new floorpans to cut out the old ones?
2.) I was thinking about using an angle grinder with cutting wheel to cut out the old floor pans is that an ok idea?
3.) Plan to remove floor pan as close to the old seam as possible and grind / clean off any leftover rust and debris. Again is this the idea.

Thanks again for any help / advice.

Also, if anyone is close to the Lancaster CA area and would like to make some extra cash for a little 914 specific advice I would love to talk to you.

-Ryan

eratik · 06-17-2005, 03:27 PM

Forgot to mention... Doors open and close perfect and with a 200+ pound friend in the car still no sag and doors function perfectly. I've heard this is one way to tell if you have structual problems.

Tidybuoy · 06:11 PM

If you have any interest:

I just finished stripping a 914 down to the tub. The body, floors, trunk, longs are all rust free but the battery area does have rust and will need to be addressed (not terminal at all). I don't have any photos right now and I'm leaving town for fathers day. I'll get some photos posted on Monday.

I really want to get rid of this tub but I hate sending it to the wrecking yard. I live in Fresno, CA. Lancaster is not too, too far away.

Attached is a photo of the car before I stripped it. It's possible that you could save some $$ by starting your project with a better candidate. From the few photos that you have posted....I think that your project will end up being very costly - 914's are prone to rust and whith the amount shown, I suspect that there's a lot more to be found.

Vern

eratik · 06-18-2005, 05:36 PM

Hey Vern,

Hope you had a good fathers day... Anyway, yea I sent you a pm and would be very interested in the '73 tub. Please shoot me a pm and post those tub pictures here when you get a few minutes. I'm pretty seriously addicted to this project at this point and really would like to start it off on the right foot. As far as parts would a lot of my '75 parts work with the '73 tub? This may be an ignorant question but I havent researched it well enough to know.

Thanks Vern,
Ryan

Dave at Pelican Parts · Dave at Pelican Parts's Garage

The tubs are very nearly identical. The biggest difference would be in the bumpers and bumper mounting areas. Most of the 75 parts will bolt right up to the 73 tub.

--DD

scotty914 · 06-20-2005, 12:50 PM

go read this thread on the 914club.com site it covers pretty much how to do it with pics

914 club thread here

good luck

Tidybuoy · 06-20-2005, 08:15 PM

Ryan,

I didn't get home until after dark so I will post photos tomorrow.

Vern

eratik · 06-20-2005, 09:28 PM

Thanks for the info Scott.... Great Stuff!!!

Reading that post makes it sound doable however I am still very excited at the possibillity of Vern's 73 as well. Would be nice to not have to count on not finding a lot more rust. (Which I'm sure is probably there)

On the positive side if I have to scrap the car at least a have a couple engines and other assorted parts for whatever new donor I get.

Thanks for all the help guys,
Ryan

Tidybuoy · 06-21-2005, 06:23 PM

Here are some of the pictures of the tub that I have. I will also send you a more complete set via e-mail. The tub has doors, hood, and rear deck lid also.

I did notice some rust in the rear trunk. It will need some repair work but it's not as bad as it looks in the photos.

Also, anything that looks like rust in the cabin is just carpet glue.

Vern

Bleyseng · Bleyseng's Garage

Both of them need work but floor pan replacement is pretty easy I think. Just drill out the spot welds and fit and weld in new floor pans. Trunks are harder and battery tray/top of long aren't easy either.

more pics of the rest of the green 75 please.

Geoff

eratik · 06-23-2005, 04:58 PM

Just started uncovering the spot welds in the floor today. Bought a new 4" angle grinder that came with a steel brush attachment and it cuts through the floor pan undercoating beautifully!!!

So far seems like the seam looks good. I have the passenger side uncovered and plan to start drilling out the welds tonight or tomorrow. I will go ahead and take some pics and upload them along the way so I can get help if I need it and to document it for any other users needing to undergo the same thing.

Zeke · 06-27-2005, 08:25 PM

Do you know how to keep the car straight while welding? And do you know to weld a little over there and then a little over here to keep things from warping? Look up Brad Roberts door braces on the 914 site. Basically an indispensable tool for this kind of work. Trust me, these cars move around when you start taking them apart and welding on them. The one thing that shows on a 914 is the door gaps. Next the hood and lid gaps, but they are more adjustable. If the door opening moves, it's like putting a square peg in a round hole to fix it.