ignition switch & starting help

jurhip · 08-23-2006, 08:18 AM

can anyone tell me what ignition switch works for a '74 1.8L. When I bought the car, the switch was malfunctioning so I bought a new one (Pel P/N 111-905-865K-M61) and it worked until I mistakenly hooked up the windshield washers which flooded the steering column and my switch broke again. So recently I purchased another and it does not work. Before i buy yet another one, is this the correct P/N.

By the way, symptoms are that it does not operate the "start" function. I have been starting my car with a button for the past year. Could it be anything else?

Also, is there a need to bleed the fuel system after fully draining the tank and lines? I recently did this and do not appear to be getting fuel to my injectors (or my injectors are not working or not getting a signal). I look at my lines and could still see an air pocket near the pump suction (yes I still have the plastic lines, but they are still pretty and pliable so I decided to keep them in)

Thanks for the info.

Tobra · Tobra's Garage

No need to bleed after draining the tank.

not sure about all the other stuff, mine has not failed, yet

computers4kids · 08-27-2006, 08:24 PM

[QUOTE]Originally posted by jurhip
can anyone tell me what ignition switch works for a '74 1.8L. When I bought the car, the switch was malfunctioning so I bought a new one (Pel P/N 111-905-865K-M61) and it worked until I mistakenly hooked up the windshield washers which flooded the steering column and my switch broke again. So recently I purchased another and it does not work. Before i buy yet another one, is this the correct P/N.

By the way, symptoms are that it does not operate the "start" function. I have been starting my car with a button for the past year. Could it be anything else?

[/QUOTE
You can go to your local bug shop and they sell two different electrical inserts with new keys. I went through this a year ago with my 74. If you look at the black rubber around the key, you will notice how it is cone shape. That is the correct one. The other one that bug shops sell has a flat shaped rubber around the key. Other than that they look almost identical. The main difference is the flat rubber one gives power in the on position but does NOT have a crank position. The cone shape works perfectly. The sell for about $12.
Mark

degreeoff1 · 08-28-2006, 08:05 AM

or you could need the "hot start system) AKA a relay mounted back by the starter that gives a kick to the 30 yr old weak assed wiring that would normally activate the starter....search "hot start" its cheap and fixed mine up quick

Josh

bd1308 · 08-28-2006, 08:30 AM

Band-Aid for a real problem.

b

degreeoff1 · 08-28-2006, 10:19 AM

Yes but this band aid will work and for many years at that...experience talking here.

What is your solution? tear apart the wiring harness and pull out the old wire?...Better yet how about just throwing another wire into the mix and duct tape it to the belly of the car....yeah thats good.....

J..

Not to be a dick, its just a Beech to get in there and pull the old out ...I know BTDT.....my NEW 34 yr old car will have a NEW basic lights/gauges setup but a driver is another story...

Dave at Pelican Parts · Dave at Pelican Parts's Garage

Ignition switch, 72-74 914, P/N 111 905 865 K. You've got the right part, according to the factory catalog.

--DD

bd1308 · 08-28-2006, 06:35 PM

No Man, how about actually CHECKING to see if the WIRE is bad.

Ive had starters not start well due to grounding problems and a ton of other ****. Until You've actually looked at the condition of YOUR wires sir, how can you suggest that my idea ISNT a bandaid approach?

Something *ELSE* is hiding in there. I too did the hot relay setup, but I had a car fire shortly after because I had ground issues, and toasted half a dozen wires in the relay board AND burned every cable in the car.

b

computers4kids · 08-28-2006, 07:00 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by bd1308
I too did the hot relay setup
b

I too added the hot relay, but it didn't solve my starting issue. It wasn't until I replaced the electrical insert in the ignition did my problems go away. Using the relay has worked for some, but it does mask the real issue and could lead to a fire depending on the breakdown in your wiring.

I agree with bd1308-----Something *ELSE* is hiding in there . I too did the hot relay setup, but I had a car fire shortly after because I had ground issues, and toasted half a dozen wires in the relay board AND burned every cable in the car.

Mark

degreeoff1 · 08-29-2006, 03:50 AM

Hmmm,

OK I stand corrected. I know mine would work and not and when I installed the "hot start" all my issues went away...

I like the simplest approach 1st, then dig deep....you can't get any deeper than I am now....BTW I have a soda blaster coming over on friday to finsh in a couple of hours that which would have taken me another couple of weeks....