914 2.0 motor ? need some answers

[olivajeep]

i was just wondering if any body knows how strong the 2.0 stock internals are (the 4 cyl) i have seen people turbo vw motors with stock internals and never have a problem i have a 71 with a 74 2.0 before i invest 1000 in pistons and rods i would like to know will the stockers hold up and if thay will how much is to much. im keeping the stock bore and stroke for simplicity also is a 2.04 rod ratio to much for a street engine.

[Joe Sharp]

The T-4 parts are very robust. If you can figure out how to turbo charge them you will have good results.

[Twystd1]

I understand your basic question. yet you would need to lay out your complete build and intention before any of us could give you solid data. (if we have it)

And as Joe said. the bottom ends on a TypeIV block are extremely strong. (Read: basically bullet proof)

From what I have gathered from others. Staying under a 96 bore is best with cast iron cylinders. Any bore larger than 96 starts to create sealing issues with the heads.
As the mating surface of the cylinder gets smaller and smaller as diameter increases.

The exception to this is to use L&N engineerings NICKIES Cylinders. These are made from Billet aluminum and you can go nuts with boost on these...$$$

The stock rods will work. But they are very heavy and the bolts will need to be changed to something stronger.
Like ARP 2000 SBC bolts or some variation on that theme.

I like your idea of aftermarket rods and pistons. That is a best case scenario.

Your cam choice will be interesting. As the stock cam is far from ideal for a turbo engine.

I have a suggestion for you. Shoot over to STF.
STF forums

Go to the TYPE-4-RUM area. Thats a great place to ask about your turbo build. Jonas Linder is way over 280HP with his. And a few other guys are over 300 HP with their setup. or you can read about 280HP NON turboed TypeIVs

It is one of the few places that speaks turbo type IV in the US. It is done all the time in Europe. Kinda hard to find here in the US.

Hopefully this will help....

Cheers,

Clayton

[Bleyseng]

If you are going to turbo the engine than look at different crank and rod combo's as the weak point is the rod bearings. They are very old skool and new style bearings will hold up better to the abuse but you will have to switch to different rods.

[olivajeep]

do you mean get an entire new crank and rod combo also what about the pistons i figure thay will need replacing im only looking at about 8 to 10 psi at about 250hp with sds efi.




thanks i will try the stf forums and see what i can find i should have some pics coming soon. again thx

[Bleyseng]

Yes, new crank with different rod journals ground.
6psi IIRC has been run easy in a 914 but beyond 10psi requires alot more modern parts including looking at the head sealing issue. The 94mm cylinders will leak as they are too thin so 90mm ones seem to be the ticket. The results of testing show that a 90mmx78mm combo will work great.

[olivajeep]

ok well thx for the info if any body else hase some please le me know as i check this topic daily thx again

[Bleyseng]

Do a search as in the early days of PP there were several 914's that were turbo'd. A 2.0L with drawn thru, a 2.0L with Djet, and 3 1.7's with Kjet.

The 1.7's are still running last I heard...and Ed Morrow's has seen some much high boost than you are talking about.

[olivajeep]

ok i will try that. i have a lot of people tell me that the d-jet is not a good choice but i cant see why that is. it is so simple on how it works it would be simple at least in my mind it is. thx again

[Bleyseng]

Why? It uses a Manifold Pressure Sensor that WOT (0hg) is full throttle but you have to do something that will sense the different boost psi. Some have tried using the cold start valve as a 5th injector and/or a rising rate fuel pressure regulator but above 36psi of fuel the injector go to stream of fuel instead of a cone spray due to their crappy low pintel springs.

[olivajeep]

should i get a new crank or weld the old one to 66mm for the use of t1 rods and bearing.

[olivajeep]

im not sure on the 66mm part i could be wrong i should have looked befor i wrote.

[Bleyseng]

2.0L is 71mm but you should look for up to date talk about turbos in the http://forums.aircooledtechnology.com/ as Raby is talking about getting a tri-metal bearing made. That will help alot! If you are staying with low boost stock will work it just that more boost use will happen!

[olivajeep]

sorry i ment keep the same stroke and just have the crank welded for t1 rods. do the t1 rod journals very in size?