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Architecture & Porsche's
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Austin, Texas
Posts: 3,189
Searching for a 2.0 (EFI too) for a rebuild: my 1.7 is toooooo sloooooow

Austin, Texas area preferrred, but who knows. Looking for correct engine, even if in parts. Feel free to email me.

Mark (Porschesolutions@gmail.com)

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'89 Andial 951
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Old 04-20-2007, 11:45 AM
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Brother's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: San Antonio, TX
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Your 1. 7 is a good or better platform for a rebuild since you get new heads. Check out aircooledtechnology.com.
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Paul

1980 911SC Targa - Sold
1972 914 - Sold
Old 04-20-2007, 12:46 PM
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Architecture & Porsche's
 
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Ill check there, thanks (still new at 914's...been 13 years since my last one, only FAT & Scat & AA were available for help back then
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Porsche Club Racing National Scrutineer
'89 Andial 951
'82 928R
'74 911 RSR 3.6
Old 04-20-2007, 12:54 PM
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What are you going to do with the car?
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Paul

1980 911SC Targa - Sold
1972 914 - Sold
Old 04-20-2007, 01:02 PM
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Architecture & Porsche's
 
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mostly drive (normal to spirited) in-town. I have faster Porsche's for faster speeds Just way too slow, won't get out of it's own way. Would at least want it up where a nice 2.0 would be.

Aircooled's site is confusing on which packages work for which engines, unless things have changed in the last 13 years.

I can't find engine rebuild packages for the 1.7 that state how big I can go, what cam is recommended, if my heads will work, if my EFI will work etc.
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Porsche Club Racing National Scrutineer
'89 Andial 951
'82 928R
'74 911 RSR 3.6
Old 04-20-2007, 01:13 PM
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Location: San Antonio, TX
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The cases are the same. You will need to supply Jake with a core to start with. Just buy there new heads and go. You might have to get a new crank, but that is about it. The 2270 seems to be their most popular combo.

He has a weekly podcast about type 4 engines if you are interested.
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1980 911SC Targa - Sold
1972 914 - Sold
Old 04-20-2007, 01:16 PM
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You can build a 1.7 out to 3 liters if you have cubic dollars. The heads won't support much over the stock displacement without some level of modifications (e.g., larger valves, port work).

I wouldn't even do a 1911cc (96mm P&Cs) without fly-cutting the head to fit the larger cylinders. The 96 slip-ins for the 1.7 heads are way way thin!

Jake's approach is the opposite of the way most places used to work. He starts by asking you what the end result you want is--how you will use the car, where you want the power, and so on. He works "back" from those to the actual parts. That's a much better way to wind up with something you can bolt in and have fun with--if not as much fun trying things out and experimenting.

Jake's good, but he's far from cheap.

The 1911 (stock 66mm crank by 96mm bore) is a popular size, but as I say you'll want to flycut the heads to fit the larger cylinders and you may want more head-work done.

Are you constrained by a particular choice of fuel system? Do you need to stay with D-jet, for instance, or is a set of carbs acceptable? ...And there are lots more questions that generally should be answered, any way you decide to go.

--DD
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Old 04-20-2007, 05:17 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: SoKal
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Since Jake Raby and a few others have entered the Type IV performance scene.

Pretty much everything you know about high performance TypeIV technology has changed... DRASTICLY.

For fellas such as Jake Raby, getting a type IV to get 150 - 200++ HP WITH longevity is being built now days.

You can buy complete engine kits that are basically a bolt up affair that can you build in your garage.

Things like cracked heads and dropped valve seats are a thing of the past if you choose the right machinist and build the right engine combination.

After market Electronic fuel injection AND programmable ignition is also possible.

Just kinda depends on your end result and the depth of your pocket book.

PM me if you need more BBS's to check out for engine threads.

Cheers,

Clayton

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Old 04-20-2007, 05:18 PM
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