Troubleshooting Weber 44 IDF's on 2.0

[bobhasissues]

I just installed new Weber 44 IDF's on my 1975 2.0 engine. These carbs are replacing a 32/36 DGEV carb. I do not know what cam is in the engine, but if it's a carb cam it is a mild one. Also have new Bosch WC7 plugs, wires, Bosch blue coil, Pertronix ignitor replacing the points and a CB Performance 3.5 lb fuel pump which tested out at 3.4 lbs fuel pressure. The car runs, but roughly. It seems like it's not firing strong. I did the low voltage test for the ignitor (connected directly to the battery) and it tested out ok. I have basically all the bad symptoms from the Weber tech manual, popping from the carbs and exhaust, hunting for idle, and surging. The car responds to carb adjustments, but nothing seems to get the car running smoothly. The idle speed and mixture screws were all synched up before installation and the linkage appears to be operating correctly. The floats do not appear to be leaking or getting any blow-by. The tech manual seems to indicate a condition of fuel starvation. Opening the mixture jets only increases rpms but does not make it run any better. No apparent vaccum leaks . I get the same misfiring condition at higher rpms too. These carbs were shipped with the stock jets, idle 50, main 135 and air corrector 175. Any advise would be greatly appreciated.

[Nostril Cheese]

Seems to me that 44's would be a tad too big for a stock 2.0. You may want to check the plugs and see if it's running rich. Had a buddy with 44's and he had to really jet them down to get it to run right

[ws91420]

The only way to synch them is running on the car and you need an air flow meter to do that. The air flow needs to be balanced across all cyl. Also recheck ignition timing.

[Twystd1]

What size are your vents? (venturis) If they are bigger than 28s. This is gunna be VERY hard to get right. (If at all)

What emulsion tunes?
Are you clear the jets aren't clogged?
Have you set the floats before installing?
Do you have a Redline Sync tool? ( we call them the SNAIL tool)
Is your cross linkage dialed in?
Are you dead nuts positive you don't have intake leaks?
Did you rebuild before installing?
How did you arrive at your jetting specs? (or is that what they came with?)

You Said: I have basically all the bad symptoms from the Weber tech manual, popping from the carbs and exhaust, hunting for idle, and surging.

That tells me you probably have more than 1 issue to contend with.

NEXT:


Hows timing? dead on? Valve adjustment dead on?

All the above is VERY important to get this right.

Check it out. Heres how I set up carbs.

1) Valve adjust

2) Make sure plugs, plug wires, rotor and cap are good.

3) Dial in Timing and dwell. (you won't need dwell as you have pertronix)

4) Get ball park jetting and E-tubes installed in rebuilt and float adjusted carbs.

5) Check fuel pressure. (you have done that and you are ok)

6) Get hex bar linkage dialed in. Everything works in unison, From all the way closed to all the way open... Always in unison.

7) Check accelerator pump squirts by using a little clear plastic hose and a graduated beaker. (or good eyes and shot glass..!!)

8) Make sure all adjustments for idle are at a known starting place. (Idles 1 turn out. and butterflys open for an eyeball of about 20 thou.

9) Then I just go for it. Use the weber book and start your tweaking.

Dam near every problem I have ever had with webers NOT WORKING was a result of bad rebuilding or an intake leak of some sort. This assumes everything else is correct on the engine.

I have tweaked on many webers and dells in the last few of years. And the best advice I have is to start with a perfectly rebuilt set of carbs with all new gaskets. Including intake manifold gaskets.

Take a look at this website. Harney has good stuff here. Use the linkys on the left side. And read before you go any farther.
http://waitresses.servebeer.com:81/vwpage/

Just thought I would throw some stuff out. Hope it helps.

Clayton