Who has a v8 914 ?

[D-one]

I have just finished doing a swap. I'm Having some problems lets talk.

[sammyg2]

I have one. What problems are you having?


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Gerald Gore II (Sam)
73 914 350 small block

[D-one]

I can't get the clutch to work I have the 9" the only way I can grab a gear is to have the throw out berring on the pressure plate when I let out the clutch the car feels like the engine wants to come out. I put a floor jack under the oil pan jacked it up the engine is solid I also have new 911 trans mounts. It's a 74 with a 67 327 SB

[diannone]

when i had my 70 914 v8 i remembered that the to bearing constantly was against the p plate, always spinning, no gap. did you try the porschev group on yahoo? http://groups.yahoo.com/group/porschev

[D-one]

Yes I hit the Yahoo! I'm thinking that the cable tube (it's the bowman tube on a volkswagon)is the problem cause it acts like the VW if there is not enough bend in the line. I had my Son press the clutch the cable flexed about 1/2 an inch. Any one had to replace the cable for this reason?

[robphelan]

guys, what's the total (approxiamte) cost for a conversion. I have a 74 914-4 that I just blew the engine...a rod, actually, was destroyed. Haven't checked into it, but i am considering going to a V8 or even a 914-6 conversion. thanks.
robphelan@cyberdude.com

[D-one]

The kit from Renagade was About $2200.00 The engine $700.00 Add about $400.00 Misc. stuff. The Ride even with clutch chatter PRICELESS!

[Germain]

I'm in process of putting a Chrysler 2.2L Turbo in. I'll get about 225 horses when I'm done, and the whole thing is costing me about $2500. I know it's not a V8, but it's alot cheeper to rebuild and weighs less and easier to cool, and ummmm the engines area dime a dozen (well a little more but not much).

[finadict]

The transaxle sits further back on the conversion, at least on mine. I had to reroute the clutch cable and support the cable on the the engine mount to prevent flexing. Make sure the tube out of the firewall is secure.
As far as the cost of conversion figure 1K for cooling, about the same for the transadapter flywheel and clutch. Headers, starter, motor mounts, water pump, 100 amp min alternator, misc another 2K +.
The transmission and engine shold be matched if you want reliability, by this I mean you can run a 901 reliably if the engine doesn't produce a lot of torque in the lower rpm range. It seems that V8's with more than about 3inch stroke will routinely destroy the 901. In my 76 I've got the orginal 901 with over 200k miles mated to a 420 HP 360 ft/lb 302 Chev the motor produces max torque at 6k and max hp at 7100 rpm. The conversion was finished 2 years ago and there is no ta issues. If you choose to go with a longer stroke motor consider changing to a 915 or 930 tranny, this will add a minimum of 4k if you don't have the parts. This is my experience, BTW an v8 914 is just plain fun, quick as viper, and better handling than a 911, enjoy. The Porchev group on Wahoo has lots of good info.

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pat
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86 930
76 914 5.0

[JayDarden]

I have a '72 with a stroked 350, that puts out about 400 hp. It has 911 brakes, 911 suspension front and rear, and 315 35 zr17's on the back. The weak point is the 901 tranny, but first is locked out and I refrain from hammering it in second. Third is good to about 80mph, with your foot to the floor that comes up quick. I still giggle everytime I start her up.

[sammyg2]

I suggest you contact Kennedy engineering at www.kennedyeng.com
They probably made or at least sold your clutch assembly, and can answer any questions regarding it's function.
My guess is that it requires a different throw out bearing, but they should be able to confirm this. Good luck.

BTW, a conversion usually costs more than you think it will, either V8 or Porsche six.
If you have the motor, you will probably spend at least $2500 on everything else, depending on how much you upgrade your car to match the power. It is worth it, in my opinion.


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Gerald Gore II (Sam)
73 914 350 small block

[This message has been edited by sammyg2 (edited 08-14-2001).]

[jabb]

Hi:

Did you get instructions from KEP I did not
and there are some things that need to be done to the Transmission. I did a 914/6 3.0
conversion so not sure if this applies...

But here go's:

THe ball that the clutch fork rides on needs to be removed and the washer behind it removed then re install with Locktight.

The collar that covers the front tranmission seal has 2 studs holding it in place.
Back out the Studs and nuts and replace with 2 bolts... Thsse mods will give additional travel for the throw out bearing...

Good Luck



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• Joe A.
• 84 911 Targa
• 75 914/6 3.0

[oredith]

Hi Jay,
do you have a picture of your car?.. what kind of flares do you have on it? (i'm guessing you've got *some* kind of flare, or else the 315's would never fit, further guessing that it's not the typical GT-flare, because that wouldn't fit the 315 either). i'm curious to know what you mean by 911 rear suspension?.. did you actually swap out the arms for 911 arms?..

sounds like a cool car.. i like the new quote i read in Machiavelli's THE PRINCE.. contents not applicable, but i thought it was still funny : "power is not the main thing, it's the ONLY thing"..

Jeff - 70 2.0 turbo

[D-one]

Thanks for all the info guys. I didn't get any info on the clutch. I just put it in. I'll call KEP and see what they say.

[JayDarden]

oredith - I am efforting pictures to post, the car has the body kit from reddawgracing.com - big 911 turbo spoiler and all - I use the car as a daily driver so I usually drive with the standard 914 "roll bar" and roof installed (it also has a tube roll cage), but on weekends I take all that off and it's a convertable.

The suspension in the front uses the typical 911 anti-sway bars and Koini adjustables with 245 45 zr17's. On the rear it has 911 control arms that have a custom mount, and adjustable shocks with 315 45 zr17's.

I was looking in the paper for 914 to use as a doner for the swap when I saw the completed car for 9 grand, and it was just down the street. I went over expecting to see a pile of rust with a leakey chevy badly stuffed inside. When I pulled up, my jaw hit the floor, as this is the most outrageous car I have ever seen and is in great shape. I offered the guy six thousand he declined. After I walked away he asked if I could get the cash today, now it's mine

It handles better than any other car I've driven, in the hard corners it drifts without incident as long as you don't do anything stupid with the gas (at 1/2 throttle the rear end steps around). It takes lots of "dedication" when driving on the street because everyone from punks in mustangs to old men in beemers wanna have a go at you, and with bright yellow paint and super loud Borla exhaust, the cops take notice.

[rich]

I dug up this old post looking for a link to the porschev bbs. I tried to sign up. I must really be handy capped. I couldn't sign up on that list for nuthin... Oh well.. I think it must be one of those lists that send you 25 e-mail a day. Who has time to read all the messages?

[John2kx]

From your description of the problem it sounds like you have clutch chatter. It would be helpful to know what kit/parts you are using. I assume you have a Renegade setup since you quoted a price of kit on one of your replys. If the Renegade 9" upgrade, they use a kevlar clutch that can/will chatter until properly broke in. The first 100 miles must be driven like your grandma was behind the wheel. Improper break in will cause glazing that will not just go away. The kevlar has to go through several heat up/cool down cycles when new and if you have talked to Scott at Renegade, I'm sure he warned you about this...........he's preached it to me enough : )

The T/O bearing is different if using a Renegade conversion (about 1/8" thicker) ......not sure about KEPs). I just installed my engine to trans. last week (using a complete Renegade kit) and had issues with placement of the T/O bearing. The guys on Porschev helped me through this one and as mentioned by Jabb, the washers behind clutch fork pivot do control where the T/O bearing is positioned. I found 3 washers installed behind my pivot ball and removed one at a time, then reinstalled the transmission to check where the clutch fork was positioned at the adjustment end (it should be about 1/8" from the bellhousing and definately not touching it). You will find that one washer will change where the T/O bearing is located on its sliding tube by 1/4". If you have too many washers installed, the pivot fork can actually make contact with the pressure plate while at rest.

Scott at Renegade also told me that the T/O bearing will make contact with pressure plate when clutch is released. This is normal and will not cause any problems.

I understand your aggrevation in signing up with Yahoo. It took me several days but worth every minute. If you do get there, look up my questions about "914 trans. installation" just last week. Send me your email and I'll forward you the posts if you have no luck getting on porschev.

jthomas235@home.net