Pedal cluster questions

[farleyd]

Hi to all, after installing a new 19mm master cylinder, i ended up with a brake pedal that is not going back fully at the top. A little weep with the feet takes it to its normal position. It wasnt like that with the old m/c. So i have a couple of questions:

1) Can a bad bleeding procedure lend to not enough pressure to bring the pedal back up?
2) IS it the m/c pressure or the spring cluster that lift the pedal up?
3) The brake pedal switch has a metal connector that contacts with the pedal. Is that connector going in front or behind the pedal - i mean on the front car end or back end side of teh pedal. Hope i am clear.
4) Coincidence! Or is it my cluster that is jammed!

Thanks!

914/6 conversion
www.farleydw.com/914.html

[unclerichy]

1) Yes, bad bleeding can leave air in the calipers. Having to "pump up" the pedal would be a good indicator of this.

2) The brake pedal is spring loaded, which brings it back to its "normal" position. Note that the factory used plastic bushings in the pedal cluster. Sometimes leakage from the master cylinder will cause these bushings to swell. If you think this happened, I would rebuild the cluster using metal bushings-brake fluid won't have any affect on them. Pelican has a Tech article on this.

3) The brake switch is behind the pedal. In other words, between the pedal and the floorboard (front) of the car.

Good luck!

Rich
'74 2.0
'73 1.7

[This message has been edited by unclerichy (edited 09-15-2001).]

[HMeeder]

Sabin

There is also a nut to adjust the depth of the plunger/pedal relative to the rest of the pedals. If you are otherwise getting good pressure without having to 'pump' the system, check that.

And yes, the spring should be bringing that pedal all the way back up. Possibility of swollen bushings or inadequately bled MC.

Good luck!

------------------
Herb
'72 1.7 Tangerine 'Teen
'74 2.0 Red Rustmobile

[farleyd]

Yes i am having good pressure. Proof is that when the pedal is up in the middle, staying in place but not to its top position, the brakes are still applied.

Ill check the bolt and the bushing. As i said, when it was the old m/c (also a 19mm) the pedal was ok, returning to its normal position without hesitaiton.

Will check. Thanks!

[John Rogers]

As noted, the length of the rod to the m/c may need adjustment. The Haynes manual gives the amount of clearance between the rod and the back of the m/c piston, I think .1mm or something really small? The brake light switch is activated by the round disk on the m/c rod contacting the lever on the switch. You can adjust it so the lights come on when you just barely touch the pedal or after it has been pushed some. On my race car I have it right at the top so the guys behind me will start to brake as soon as I touch the pedal and no braking is happening! Just a little edge on the track. Good luck.