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914-6 to part or to bring back to life?
I'm picking up a real 914-6 original one / two owner car from a co-worker. His dad bought it new in 1970.
Engine is seized from sitting too long without being started, But it's been garage kept. I've seen some crazy prices on parts like the original wheels claimed at being worth $6K. And I've seen original very good condition 914-6 sell for $25K or more. So I'm fishing for advice: IF it's a complete rust bucket, but complete and original, is it worth anything as an original numbers matching complete engine and tub, or should it be ripped down to components? I'm new to the 914-6 world, and looking for a crash course. Thanks, Richard |
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An original 1 owner six is worth something no mater the condition. Do not part it out. If you can't fix it someone can. If it's not rusty, throw in another (maybe larger) motor and drive it. If it's all there it can be fixed or worth a bit. I don't' know actual numbers unfortunately.
You'll get way more info on either www.914world.com or www.914club.com
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David 1970 914/6 RustoMod 2015 Mercedes E400 |
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I agree an original six is worth some money. The motor might be able to be freed up. Need to get an idea of the condition of the chassis in regards to rust. Specifically look at the " hell hole " which is the area under the battery this is considered cancer central. Also the longs,trunks etc. rust is the enemy. Have any pics?
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2002 Boxster S . Arctic silver + black top/int. Jake Raby 3.6 SS engine " the beast ". GT3 front bumper, GT3 side skirts and GT3 TEK rear diffuser. 1999 996 C4 coupe black/grey with FSI 3.8 engine . Rear diffuser , front spoiler lip with ducktail spoiler . |
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I agree with the others, if this car is complete,numbers matching it is worth the effort to be restored. Get it ,do your research maybe learn to weld if you have to then have fun putting it back together. What is your goal, originality? I would lean toward that if the car is clean. If the goal is something else you could always trade or sell it to get the funds for a cool street or ax car. Dont part or chop it up though.
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I don't have pics yet.
I talked with the owner (my co-worker) more today. He has a tendency to over over remember a problem, and that gets amplified in his head. He says that both cars are rusty, such that he felt the chassis on each was non repairable. That probably means that there is definite rust on both the 914-6 and the 911. I hope that it's not life threatening. I did find out that once it had original mag wheels, but now just has steelies. The story goes that dad was not very good at judging curb distances, and finally replaced the rashed up mags with steel ones. My intent is to get them both home (won't be able to happen for some weeks now), see if I can get the engines freed up and running. Then sell off both cars. I need cash to rebuild / replace my 3.2L for my 87 911. Richard |
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It might be worth it even if you had to do some chassis remediation too
![]() what color?
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As an "investor" it will be worth something, someday, in any condition. Folks pay HUGE money for 356s whose only recognizable feature is the shape of the rust pile.
However, "restoring" such a car will not bring you any "profit" for at least a decade.
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1970 914-6 Past: 2000 Boxster 2.7, 1987 944, 1987 924S 1978 911SC, 1976 914 2.0, 1970 914 w/2056 |
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Pics
So It's not nearly as bad as the owner remembered.
It's lived it's life in Wisconsin, so it's not rust free, but it's in better shape than the poor 911 next to it (Which is the one I bought along with the 914-6). I'm gonna go up there and free up the engine, and clean off all the dirt, and inspect everything as thoroughly as possible so I can advertise it as a running 914-6. A few questions: 1) Can I get to all the sparkplugs from underneath so I can get some penetrating oil into the cylinders? 2) What would you use as penetrating oil to free up the stuck rings and cylinders. 3) Is this engine carbed (webbers?) or injected? Thanks for the help! Richard ![]() ![]()
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You change the spark plugs from above. From the pic you posted of the engine bay if you follow the ignition wires from the distributor you will see where they terminate at the engine. Be very careful removing the plugs as they may be " bonded/frozen" from sitting. You might want to pull the plug wires and spray some Kroil,PB Blaster type penetrating oil down into the plug cavity. The hope is some of the penetrant will flow down into the threads of the plugs. I would spray them over several days. Assuming you can get the plugs out I would pour small amounts of Marvel Mystery oil along with conventional oil down the plug holes. Yes the car has carbs, not sure if they are Webers or Zeniths. If it were me I'd keep and restore that 914. Keep us posted.
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2002 Boxster S . Arctic silver + black top/int. Jake Raby 3.6 SS engine " the beast ". GT3 front bumper, GT3 side skirts and GT3 TEK rear diffuser. 1999 996 C4 coupe black/grey with FSI 3.8 engine . Rear diffuser , front spoiler lip with ducktail spoiler . |
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Like some one said"open wallet see money fly".... how much does one want to throw at it?
One of my friends just bought one from one of our friends estate for 10k along with fuchs,extra trannie, motor.. and that was also a two owner car...needs work too.. Some where some one might step up and pay the $ your asking ..... oh ya.. I could have picked up the other -6... but where does one stop spending $ .. Good luck with your sale |
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Im restoring two 914-6s right now and have owned a bunch of other before them.
#1. as it sounds like you need money to do a project and are considering flipping it, do it. There will be buyers out there and you can get more money than you think - just don't get too greedy. #2. One of the cars I'm restoring, I paid under $5K with the original motor and lots of parts. However, it was rusty and I have probably $15K into the metal & paint. Had to have the tranny rebuilt, the motor replaced ( Will keep the original case), re-did the interior. By the time I'm done, I could have bought one of the nicest 914-6s out there with the money I will spend on this one. But I'm a glutin for punishment and I never have a big chunk of money to buy a finished car. Plus I will get the satisfaction that it's completely mine. I will have to wait a long time to make money on it, but that was never part of the equation. http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=90917 #3 My second 914-6 I got luckier on, but I will still end up putting a lot of money into. http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=95136 I'm not a buyer for your car ( I've got enough on my plate), but I'm on here and 914World, and will be glad to give you free advice anytime. T.C. Last edited by carr914; 08-31-2009 at 05:28 PM.. |
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Not all 914-6s are worth restoration.
When I moved to my my current home 23 years ago, there was an "original" ''70 914-6 parked in a nearby driveway under a car cover and tarp. Ten years later, it disappeared. Three years ago, it showed up again in the same driveway but with a new car cover and tarp over it. When I saw it the first time around, the body had rust everywhere, the engine was frozen and the tranny crunched into every gear. Now the interior is completely rotted out, the body is even worse from 23 years outside in the elements and the drivetrain has become a "boat anchor". Sp how much are a set of 914-6 Vin plates worth to a poser?
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All Real 914-6s are worth restoration - they will be the next 356 and I've some of those restored that should have seen the crusher. The exception would be VIN swapped cars.
Richard, when I saw that you mentioned $6K wheels, I was thinking WTF. Then I realized you had seen that wreaked 914-6 For Sale. The wheels on that car are not 914-6 wheels but 911R wheels that are special and worth Big$$ T.C. |
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Help me ID the 914-6
Here's what the previous owner found as ID marks:
For the 914-6: Car Type: 914014 stamped in the body under the front boot on the passenger side front fender and on a plate further down and to the front near the front headlight on the same side. Chassis Serial Number: 9140431457 stamped in the body under the front boot on the passenger side front fender and on a plate further down and towards the front near the front headlight on the same side Engine Serial Number 6404929 Dealers Identification Number:406A02 What does all of this mean? |
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Looks like an original six vin,#1457produced model year '70, appears to be an original six engine number. You can only tell if they are original to the car by ordering the COA from Porsche.There should be a number stamped in the trunk towards the rear panel. Mine was on the passenger side. Looks like a nice find.
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Serial # 9140431457 is your Vin #
The Engine #6404929 is a 1970 914-6 Engine Serial #. The Engine #'s were not put in cars in sequence in fact my Vin 9140431724 is supposed to have Engine # 6404930. But my #673 car has Engine # 6404444. The only way to get any kind of verification of the Engine # is a Porsche COA, but they have very unreliable info and are not worth the cost ($110). Let the next owner buy one. For now you know that you have a 914-6 correct VIN # and a correct 914-6 Engine # The Dealer ID # must be coming off some other info, so hopefully the guy has all the original paperwork. T.C. |
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Quote:
I fully trust that he owns the cars, and that he was the last registered owners (I do work with him). But he's got 12 plus classic cars and has owned the Porsches for 20 plus years and multiple moves. Paperwork can be hard to find after all of that. I might end up having to get him to file for a "Lost title"...... Richard |
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Heading there tomorrow AM!
By 1PM CST tomorrow I'll be in front of my 914-6 and 1969 911 for the first time, and by Monday they will be snug in my Garage in KC.
I'm all excited, and I don't think that I'll be productive at work today as I keep making check lists in my head. For good or bad, I'll know tomorrow if this was a money making deal, or a folly of time and effort just to break even. Pics Pics Pics!!! What should I take pics of? Add to the list, what would you want if you were a potential buyer of the car? 1) every Vin number and Chassis sticker color lable, and chassis number plate I can find. 2) The Engine number off the fan shroud 3) the hell hole rust (Take the battery out) 4) underneath the car: 4A) door sills areas 4B) Suspension mounting points 4C) Floor pan area 4D) Underside of Engine and Tranny, focusing on the shifter type. 5) Detail shots of body damage, rust and dents 6) interior Dash , Guages, seats 7) Engine (Can I remove something on the rear trunk to expose the engine and trans form the top?) Thanks! Richard |
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Richard...
Great find...you're going to have fun!
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John |
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He is flipping it.
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