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Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 18
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Removing Outer CV Joints?
Hello Friends,
I plan to use a tow bar to tow my stripped 914 body to be soda blasted. The engine and transaxle are out, and now I need to remove the axles from the wheels so they don't flop around and do serious damage while being towed. I removed the CV joint boot 12 point flange bolts on the wheel sides, but can't figure out how to ease the flange from the wheel hub. The CV joints on the transaxle side required a flat screwdriver and hammer to tap them apart, but I don't see any access to the edge of the flanges at the wheel hub. The Haynes manual wasn't very helpful either - directing me to remove the wheel hubs. Can't I just part the CV joint flange at the wheel to remove the axle from the wheel while leaving the wheel in place? How? Thanks in advance, MarkB |
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05-25-2010, 11:43 PM
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Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 18
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I think I stumbled on the answer in a different thread:
Removing the driveshaft from the stub axle. Looks like I have to remove the stub axle to part the CV joint flange from the stub, then replace the stub in the wheel hub. One post insisted that the bearing will be damaged and will need replacing. That doesn't seem right - is it true? Thanks, MarkB |
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05-26-2010, 12:13 AM
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Nope not true. the stub will/should slide right out.
They are talking about the hub it'self and the bearing it rides in as an interface to the trailing arm. |
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05-26-2010, 08:56 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Oakland, CA
Posts: 925
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Quote:
If you removed all the bolts from the CV, the only thing holding it in are the two pins. Usually, some creative clubbing with various tools is enough to get the CV off the stub axle ...  Andy
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>> 1970, 914-6, 3.6L (Conversion) >> 1970, 914-6, #374 (Original) >> 1975/73, 914 Limo (Custom) |
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05-26-2010, 04:07 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Derby City KY
Posts: 2,513
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Hi MarkB...
As Andy said with the axle bolts remove from the CV the only thing holding the axle and stub together are the two roll pins...this is just like at the other end at the tranny flange...so with a little persuasion you can get it loose.... it is just very tight in there... Just a note of caution.... If you are going to flat tow to the blaster via a tow bar ... Then you should to leave the sub Axel in place attached to the wheel hub... If you remove the stub axle and just leave the wheel hub attached to the trailing arm...the wheel hub will only be held in by the wheel bearing ...this is fine for rolling around the shop....no problems at all.....but if you are going to flat tow it for any distance..... the wheel may start to wobble some and a few blocks from your house the hub and wheel and half the bearing shell will fall off and go their own way down the street....the stub axle and that big nut are what hold it all together.... Usually you have to practically destroy the wheel bearing to get the hub out but if going a distance you may want to leave the stub axle and wheel hub attached together... Good Luck with the project!
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John |
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05-27-2010, 10:45 AM
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Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 18
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I used a breaker bar to release the castle nut from the axles, reversed them on the end of the axle and tapped the axles out of the hubs with a hand sledge. Parting the outer CV from the stubs was actually more difficult and required some attention with a hammer and screwdriver, destroying the CV gaskets in the process. It became obvious I needed to return the stub to the hub if I wanted to avoid a newsworthy incident on the freeway.
Thanks everybody for all the advice and knowledge. MarkB |
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05-27-2010, 11:42 AM
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74 Porsche 914 2.0L 
