914/6 loose hubs please help.

[danno]

I have bought from porsche new stub axles and new rear bearings. I put them all together and know my wheel has play in it. The hubs are 911 hubs (not new) and everything is very tight. Has any one seen this before?

Thanks For any help.
Dan

[jmcleod]

maybe you can't use 911 stub axles in a 914. i know the 914/6 stub axles are different than 914 and i think different than 911 although may be the same as "old" 911 (circa 70-73 911T ???? for example). compare the part numbers for 914, 914/6 and 911 stub axles to answer your question.

[danno]

I was not to clear the stub axles are 914/6 axles so are the bearings. And the hubs are early model 911.

Thanks

[philinjax]

Are your axial nuts tightened to 217 ftlbs to 253ftlbs.
Phil

[Joe Ricard]

Hey since I have my car up on jack stands I went out and wiggled my rear wheels. And wiggle they did. 74 914/4
When it gets back on all fours I will put the torque wrench to them. Somehow I just don't feel that it is going to get better. So what parts do I need to replace. It is really starting to look alot like 5 lug time. Maybe some of OTTO's cool stubs.

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

What's wiggling? If you have the wheels off, the brake rotors will wiggle. That's because the two little screws just keep the rotor from falling off the hub. The lug bolts and wheels are what actually hold the rotor in place.

Surprised the heck out of me when I first noticed, and prompted a somewhat-panicked call to my mechanic.

--DD

[Joe Ricard]

Yea Dave I wish it was that elementary. But nope the wheels are bolted to the car. torqued to spec. So what part wears out. and what causes this.

[roadtrp204]

The hub is pressed into the bearing on the outer side and the stub axle butts up against the inner side of the bearing. When bolted and tightened the axle stub and the hub sandwich the bearing in the middle. If the nut is torqued to spec (they do loosen up when the parts seat after the first initial torque) the only possiblity would be the bearing.

[Otto]

PP has the correct 914/6 stub axles, and wheel bearings and 914/6 rear discs. I have the hubs you needand assemble one of the set ups a week. We can also re-enforce/paint/powder paint your trailing arms at the same time. We can also put 21st. century plastic, durometer Poly-Graphite(softer) or race poly-graphite traling arm bushings. OTTO

[TimW]

I would suspect the bearings as well. I hate to say it but maybe the bearings were damaged upon installation? I assume they were pressed in and not [dare I say] pounded in with a hammer? I’ve heard of guys using the hammer installation method, but I’m sure everyone will agree that type of repetitive pounding force means certain death for the bearings.

Unfortunately you’ll probably never know if they are indeed the problem until you go through the expense of having the old-new ones pressed out and new-new ones pressed in.

For what it’s worth my stock ’73 hubs wiggled as you described and new bearings solved the problem.

[Otto]

I have installed a few rear wheel bearings on our teeners in the past, and finally I will describe the OTTOS way to do it!!!! Put the new bearings that you have purchased from Pelican Parts into your freezer. Crack pipe again, Margaritas for breakfast????????? NO!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Get the old bearing out of the trailing arm(No easy task)and clean all of the mating surface where the bearing goes antiseptic. Take your frozen bearing out of the freezer and install it into the trailing arm. Just get it started, do not hit the bearing in!! If you have to hit it in, use a bearing driver and only hit it on the outside race. Take the stub axle and stick it through the bearing and attach the rear wheel hub to the stub axle. It won't fit, so you got to play with it. Take the castelated axle nut and put it on the axle backwards with the castelated part going to the inside. Then you can draw in the bearing into the trailing arm without killing the bearing by beating on it. OTTO