Correct setting for TPS?

[paulhagedorn]

I was just wondering if there is a definite way for setting where the TPS is with respect to the throttle plate.

I got a new TPS, just like Dave predicted I would need. Damn thing really started acting up right before I switched out.

TIA,
Paul

[pbanders]

There's a tech article in the 914 area of Pelican Parts web site on how to set up the TPS.

[paulhagedorn]

Thanks much Brad!

But...I am still having problems with the car. The TPS is set correctly, which did help the car, but it is still having the problems that it did before replacing the TPS. I know the TPS was worn, and it did seem to improve by replacing it, but something else is amiss now. Maybe I should open the new TPS just to make sure it is contacting properly...start checking vacuum lines, etc.

I am guessing it is a grounding issue now. Oh, the problem, if anyone hasn't seen the other posts, is that it runs rough and misses when the lights are on. Every now and then it seems to go away, but will always come back.

Anyone in Atlanta have a timing light I could borrow?

Thanks,
Paul

[pbanders]

My first suggestion is that you go through the whole system - basic mechanical, ignition, then FI. Trying to diagnose these types of problems without first verifying the system is OK is what gets people into a endless loop chasing these types of problems.

That said, if you want to jump the gun, check the following. The FI system is sensitive to voltage drops. The injector open/close times are strongly related to the system voltage. Check the voltage to the ECU by putting a voltmeter on pin "I" on the white plug on the relay board (see PP parts electrical diagrams). You can stick the pin probe down into the socket while it's connected to the board, or you can tap the connection with a wire wrapped around the terminal. Compare to the voltage at the battery. If there is more than a 1 V drop, or if the absolute voltage is less than 11 V, you'll probably have an issue.

Brad Anders

[paulhagedorn]

My guess is it is the ignition. This morning, while driving without the lights on, it was acting a little funny and also cut out for about 2 seconds and then came back to life. It might be my ignition switch.... I do have several keys on my key chain, which I have heard, due to the weight, causes the ignition switch to wear out and lose contact. I will be checking that out this afternoon, to see if wiggling it any will cause it to break contact, etc. I do need to start checking voltage across all the connections.

Isn't it something like 3 volts across the injectors, when they are told to open?

This is starting to get a little frustrating, because I have found problems with most of the systems I have checked so far. Old car...old car....old car. Could the injector points cause this problem as well? How often do they go out? I haven't replaced them since having this engine, and they are probably old. I know they have at least 10,000 miles on them, probably more.
How hard is it to replace them and how hard is it to check to see if they are functioning correctly. It is in the dizzy, right?

TIA,
Paul

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

Yes, I think it's 3V at the injectors. Reading up on Paul Anders' D-jet ECU page will help confirm or deny that. http://members.rennlist.com/pbanders

The trigger points are waaaaaay down at the bottom of the distributor body. If you can even get any kind of driver on the two mounting screws with the distributor installed on the motor, you're a better man than I. Look for a plastic plug that has three wires--it's on the front (toward the nose of the car) side of the distributor body.

--DD