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Registered
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Weilding question
I would like to stiffen my chassis,with a kit i am purchasing. I believe it is a 16 or 18 gauge metal. How big a weilder would i need. mig...tig....suggestions.
Thanks Teeners |
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Resident Electrician
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MIG. Very easy to learn. Get one with gas. I have a Miller 175 and I'm very happy with it.
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Current Project: 73 914, 1.8t, ~300hp, 930 Brakes, Roll Cage Past Projects: 69 911, converted to C2 wide body cabriolet 3.2L 72 914, Ford 5.0L V8 EFI |
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Registered
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If you are new to wielding forget about gas/tig. Both require a huge learning curve. Definitely go with a wire feed and get a book on wielding. Haynes has a good one, I actually started off with it. The Miller welders are very nice and will produce excellent wields. However, they are expensive. If all you want to do is wield in a stiffing kit, I would recommended the dirt cheap Harbor Freight 110V wielder. I recently "borrowed" one from Harbor Freight when my MIG was down. I have to say, it did do a great job welding the cracked exhaust header on my 944 T. But I warn you, the corded wire is messy, the flux goes everywhere; so have a wire brush handy. They also make wire wheels that attach to electric drills. Also, a good angle grinder is nice to have if you put down too much wield or want to start over. Remember, a fire extinguisher, gloves and welding helmet are your best friends. Nothing will ruin your weekend faster than your car catching on fire or a trip to the hospital because you UV burned your eyes. I UV burned my eyes when I was 20 because I couldn't see what I was welding through my mask. Huge Mistake, it feels like sand paper rubbing on your eye balls. Get your self an auto-darkening helmet if you have trouble seeing.
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Registered
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Dahlonega , Georgia
Posts: 14,561
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In my opinion you should only buy a name brand welder. This should be a tool purchase that you plan on keeping long term. I would recommend a Miller, Hobart, Lincoln, Daytona Mig brands like that. Get a brand that your local weld shop sells/services so you can get replacement parts if needed. And don't rule out buying used as many of these come up for sale. I purchased a Hobart 140 and did all the welding on my 914 with it. I did chassis stiffening kits, metal wheel flares and some patch panels and it did a great job. And don't forget good eye protection I like the auto darkening shields. And a good cart, cutting pliers, tip cleaner, various spools of wire, shielding gas, good gloves it goes on and on. Good luck.
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2002 Boxster S . Arctic silver + black top/int. Jake Raby 3.6 SS engine " the beast ". GT3 front bumper, GT3 side skirts and GT3 TEK rear diffuser. 1999 996 C4 coupe black/grey with FSI 3.8 engine . Rear diffuser , front spoiler lip with ducktail spoiler . |
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Registered
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Thanks to everyone. I was planning on using (mig), thought it would be the easiest.
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RETIRED
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My Hobart has served me well.
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1983/3.6, backdate to long hood 2012 ML350 3.0 Turbo Diesel |
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In the shop at Pelican
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 10,459
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Get a MIG. easiest to learn, most versatile. When you're ready for precision welds, move up to TIG.
Get the highest quality auto-darkening helmet you can, thick welding gloves and coveralls. Invest in a good angle grinder at the same time. |
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Registered
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 75
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IMHO your 914 is not where you want to learn to weld. If I were you I would haul it to a body shop or welding shop where someone who does it every day would do you a good job. Learning to produce good strong welds takes a lot of time and practice, and is a lot easier to learn by starting out with metal a least 1/8" thick. Thin body sections are very prone to warping from heat and there is a fairly long learning curve to get a good looking, strong end product.
Leon |
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