need to change out flywheel,maybe clutch.

[rosenfe]

is it easier to pull tranny or pull engine or both?.i am working with jack stands.

[914-6Porsche]

I have only pulled the tranny many times. I'm an original owner of a "70" 914-6 and I don't think it would be any different for any other models.

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

Easier to just pull the trans. You'll need to tilt the engine down, so loosen the engine mounting bolts. And support the rear of the engine on something solid, like a jack stand. Not a floor jack; those can sag overnight which can tear your motor mounts. (Don't ask how I know that.)

--DD

[TheCabinetmaker]

yes you can pull the tranny only. Although if I am doing the flywheel too (new seal is required, don't re-use), I d be more inclined to pull the package, just cause I hate doing a lot of work under the car, specially so If I haven't pulled the motor in many years as often there are things like leaky engine seals, torn engine bay seals, old hoses, and bad motor mounts that are simple to replace with the motor is out. Pulling the whole enchilada is only slightly more work than pulling the tranny only. However if only doing a clutch, and knowing all else is in good condition, I'd pull the tranny only

[Nostril Cheese]

Tranny only is easy. Takes 30 minutes. Support the engine well.

[rosenfe]

changing flywheel on my 73 2.0,interested as to how others check end play and add or subtract shims behind flywheel.ive read several methods,but still want more input.

[TheCabinetmaker]

I use a dial indicator clamped with a magnetic base to the flywheel , the indicator rides on the engine case, back and forth movement is measured that way. besure that the back and forth movement is made evenly (ie pull or push the flywheel from two points 180 degrees apart. You want the crank shaft to slide in and out and measure that play, you don't want to measure a deflected flywheel because one side was pushed or pulled.

you need to torque down the flywheel to specification for the measurement to be taken, and I do this with no oil seal installed, until I get the shim stack right, then I pull it apart on last time, install the seals, and put it back together. this the seals are only compressed once and not subjected to multible installs as you search for the correct endplay.

do not use any shim that is warped, bowed or scored. All shims must be dead flat, and smooth, these are bearing surfaces. many time used shims are scored, bowed, warped, and are not suitable for re-use. also be dead sure the shims are clean, no dirt can be allowed as that will effect the endplay measure. also check the flywheel surface that the shim rides on, and use care when setting a flywheel dwon, don't let the shim surface slide over a concrete floor or allow it to be dinged up, it to is a bearing surface, lay it down gently on a soft rag.

cleanliness is essential. once you have the correct shims stack, give them a little lube with motor oil before final assembly. but make the measurement with them dry

remember put the seal in last,(After all measurements are made) as removal and install of shims can tear the seals delicate lip

sourcing the correct shims can be a pain, you may have some days of down time while waiting for the correct shims to arrive. I always order extras of differenet sizes so I can fine tune the end play with a selection of shims .

also take multible measurement of each shim stack to assure you not getting errors in readings.

an micrometer is handy for measuring shims, as they are not always clearly marked.

PS a sticky distributor drive can effect the endplay measure, so it is good idea to pull the dizzy up to make sure it is not effecting measure of endplay. besure to mark the dizzy location, same goes for the fan drive belt, that too ideally should be removed for measurement remember the fan also moves in and out. if anything is obstructing the fans movement in and out (like a tight belt) then your endplay measurements will be off.

[rosenfe]

thanks for that detailed reply,it is very useful.i think *********** has shims in seeveral sizes-expensive though

[rosenfe]

i have a question about your method.when putting flywheel on for measurement,are you useing old shims and then adjusting after that measurement.or are you putting flyheel on with out shims,measuring end play and then putting shims to bring end play to spec with final assembly

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

The traditional method: You put two of your old shims in, check the measurement, and use that measurement to figure out the thickness of the third shim that you need.

If your measurement is larger or smaller than you can get shims, you then measure your two existing shims and do some math to figure out what you "should" need.

--DD

[TheCabinetmaker]

Originally Posted by rosenfe

i have a question about your method.when putting flywheel on for measurement,are you useing old shims and then adjusting after that measurement.or are you putting flyheel on with out shims,measuring end play and then putting shims to bring end play to spec with final assembly

I inspect any old shims used for an initial measurement, if any are warped, scored, otherwise damaged they are not used in a measurement.

you can make the initial measurement with or without shims installed. make multible measurements to make sure you got a repeatable measure. I always buy extra shims beyond what I calculate to give me a fine final adjustment. thus if I need exactly by calculation .035 inch of shims, I will buy a selection that allows me to get .035 , .034 , and .036. (This is a made up example of measure, actual valve may differ) that way when I get the shims, I don't have to wait for more shims should my initial selection was not dead nuts right.

[John Rogers]

Unless I missed it, if you have to remove the flywheel, make sure to use NEW bolts and pins (if there any) when doing the install. Back in 2002 or so with my big four, the mechanic reused the bolts and dowel pins and the bolts loosened and broke while under full throttle on the front straight at Willow Springs. The shop fixed everything for no charge and the mechanic left town.

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

The dowel pins usually stay where they are and get re-used. There is only one small dowel pin on a stock setup, and it serves as a locator only. At least, there is only one between the crankshaft and the flywheel. There are several thicker dowels between the pressure plate and the flywheel, but those are usually not replaced either.

We do recommend that the bolts be replaced, as well as the lock plate that goes between the bolt heads and the flywheel. (You only use the new stuff when doing final assembly, not when checking end play.)

--DD