1975 914/4 - 2.0 Fuel Line Help

[DuckRyder]

Good afternoon.

As many of you have read here, I'm working on a new to me 914 and it has been sitting for quite a while.

I've accomplished spark, compression and injector pulse. However now that I have fuel pressure, she's leaking like the Edmond Fitzgerald. (or the Exxon Valdez depending on your point of view)

What I need to know is how much of what size fuel line I need to accomplish replacing ALL of the fuel line from tank to injectors. Also clamps and any other stuff that I'm going to find is useless when I get into it. (the yellow book shows a dampener?)
(of course it also says the fuel pump is under the car)

I only want to do this one time!

[Va914]

I am sure you will get alot of ideas on this topic..Here is what I did.

I bought some alum fuel tubing from Summit Racing (20' roll I think). The cost was about $20-25.

I also bought some rubber gromets and some insulated electrical clamps from LOWES. I used these to attach the tube to the lower firewall (after it comes out of the center tunnel)

The 90deg bends were tough. I didn't have the correct tubing bender so I used what I had in the shop.

It was real tough to get the new tube through the front OEM rubber seal.

Best of luck.

Kerry

[DuckRyder]

Perhaps I should clarify. I want to replace all the RUBBER hose.

Now, stupid newbie question number one:

Is it all Rubber?

I guess I pictured that when I got into it I would find that the rubber hoses on each end would connect to a metal tube running down the tunnel or something?

[Bleyseng]

Use only the Porsche high pressure FI hose for the fuel lines. Just replace one piece at a time in the engine compartment to get the lengths and location right.
The fuel pump on a 75 is under the gas tank. Drain and remove the gas tank for access to the two lines. One is larger, the supply line that goes to the filter and on to the pump. You will see the metal fuel line ends under the tank that you connect to. Get a few extra Porsche style clamps that don't pinch the fuel line like the ones you buy at FLAPS.
Geoff

[tod914]

I picked up high pressure fuel line from a vw parts shop - its sold
in 1 meter lengths - it is 7mm inner diameter. I also used some 8mm inner diameter line that a friend gave me. The difference is, the 7mm is a super tight fit that only requires 1 "O" clamp. The 8mm is a nice fit, but i used two "O" clamps on the new metal lines for piece of mind.
On one of the fuel line rails where i used the 8mm, only 1 clamp is required due to the fact they are flanged. I believe i used size 14 clamps on it.
Dont reuse your old 1's.

I did just as suggested, 1 piece at a time. However, in hindsite the line that connects the 2 fuel rails by the oil filler cap I would of made longer than the stock so that I could have secured it to the rubber fire wall pad. Would get less engine heat that way.

Do a search under my name - I went through this last summer and got lots of great advice.

I went with flexable steel line in 60". required 3 pieces. I cut the flanges off and the 3rd piece in 1/2. the 60" lines are a perfect length for the tunnel. I then took the 30" sections and bent them to fit through the engine tin. Did require purchasing a small tube bender. The 2 sets of lines are connected with the high pressure fuel line and double clamps. Only required about 2 10" pieces of hose. Check the tech article for the proper metal fuel line size -


Might as well replace the fuel pressure reg. and injector elbows while your at it. Also a good time to clean out and reseal the intakes. Mine were filthy inside.

[Bleyseng]

And the old and cracked injector seals!
Geoff

[DuckRyder]

Well Fello 914'ers.

I have some family business going on today and tomorrow so it will be thursday before I can work more.

My 75 has 2 size hoses, I assume these are the 7mm and 9mm refrenced in a previous post pulled by the reccomended searches.

I'm hoping to avoid replacing the plastic lines, we will see.

I was talking to jake and he said theat he thinks he has the line, although I think he said 8mm german braided. Hopefully he has the correct sizes. I think I'm going to pull it further apart and go see him thrursday evening.

Bleyseng, that 2056 one of Jakes?

[Bleyseng]

Nope, I built it before Jake appeared on these BBS's. I would have gone with one of his engine building kits IF he had been around, would have saved a lot of time, don't know about money.
He doesn't like Djet anyway...
Geoff

[tod914]

Lucky guy to be so close to Jake
I would be inclined to think he could point your nose in the right direction. If you need that VW parts place here in NJ, let me know and Ill dig up the phone number for you. Just so you know, I went ahead and replaced all my rubber lines. Then, I started up the car and it sprung leaks from the old plastic lines in the engine bay. I would just go ahead and do right the 1st time and be done with it for another 25 years.

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

The under-tank routing can be found here:
http://www.pelicanparts.com/914/technical_specs/914_18FI_diag.htm

The engine-bay routing can be found here:
http://www.pelicanparts.com/914/technical_specs/914_20FI_diag.htm

--DD

[DuckRyder]

Yes thats it,

I don't know why I came up with a slightly diffrent diagram (earlier model)

You guys have any 12mm fuel hose?

Got the tank out today, what a mess............................

[cshogen]

The tank (and your garage and you) has that nice "shellac" type smell from the 20-year-old fuel eh Robert? Man I remember when I took mine out.... I'm sure there's a couple of inches of muck in the bottom.

Check out the POR-15 fuel tank restorer.

www.por-15.com

[DuckRyder]

Originally posted by cshogen
The tank (and your garage and you) has that nice "shellac" type smell from the 20-year-old fuel eh Robert? Man I remember when I took mine out.... I'm sure there's a couple of inches of muck in the bottom.

Right you would be, my fiance' is very enthusiastic about it as well.

Check out the POR-15 fuel tank restorer.

www.por-15.com

Ordered it last night.

Now, I'm off to search the achives, but todays activity was to use some non braided (but german BMW) fuel hose to replace the leaking lines and pipe fuel in from a jerry can (for temporary "testing purposes") . It is now leaking from the injector (edit, yes, the rubber lines) pipes. Wondering if those can be replaced without replacing the entire injector?

Figuring if the answer is no, I'm going to be wanting to know who supplies the best webers.

[Bleyseng]

Leaking at the injector pipes? Couldn't be the metal fuel rails...so the rubber bends to the injectors? Use the high pressure hose to replace the bent pieces. You should replace ALL the FI hose at one time including the clamps. That way you know ALL the hoses are new. Check and replace the injector seals too while you are at it. Once you stop the leaks its done and you don't have to worry about.
BTDT
Geoff

[DuckRyder]

Yes, the very short rubber hoses on the injectors.

Mine are without question crimped onto the injectors. I've replaced the same lines on Nissans (which are really just licensed or stolen Bosch designs) but the fittings are not so securely crimped.

Any tips on how to go about removing the old? I'm assuming the new are reattached with standard "fuel injection" clamps?

[gint]

Tin snips, vice grips, file whatever you got that'll do the job. It can be a b***ch to get them off. High pressure fuel line and FI clamps.