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removing impeller hub (?) question
Hi,
I'm having trouble removing the piece above the oil pump (or atleast where it used to be) any advice - I don't want to force it but.... ![]() Also, any tips on removing the flywheel? This is what I've got so far but it doesn't seem to be the way to go, as in those bolts sure are tight. ![]() Thanks again. |
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On the fan hub, its usually lightly rusted into place so tap it off, carefully pry it off, lightly heat it then tap it off.
On the flywheel bolts they are torqued on so it will be hard to turn them. Just use a bigger breaker bar (longer) so you have some leverage. Geoff
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great news.
thanks for the tip. I've got, what I think is, the rest of the bolts holding the case together off (24?); should the case come apart after that? I've heard not to pry it or force it but then again... |
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Join Date: Jul 1999
Location: Boulder, CO, USA
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Depending on your source, there are 24-26 case bolts/studs. There are the 6 long studs that clamp the bearings, and then a whole lot of bolts and studs around the perimeter of the case and some still hide inwards. When I pulled my last case apart, I counted 25, but think maybe one was missing from the start. Take a 2x4 or something comperable and use it and a hammer to tap the case halves. Look for strong tabs to tap against and use the wood on the case so no damage occurs. The case should start to seperate with all bolts removed, and then you can start working your way around with the 2x4 to slowly and carefully seperate the halves. And of course, do not pry the halves apart. Also, make sure the case is on its side when you pull it apart so the crank and cam can rest on bearings and not come loose and damage the case. Good luck! I'm about to begin my first full rebuild this weekend.
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If it doen't come apart fairly easy, looks again for a bolt or a nut you have missed. One always gets missed with all that crud on the case.
Geoff
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The fan/impeller hub is on a taper with a woodruff key. You will need a puller to get it off.
Ya know the kinda puller with 3 fingers and a screw down the middle. And if you didnt get the flywheel off, there are a couple of case bolts behind it.
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We'll be having an ISO9000 audit soon. I've divided our preparation tasks into two groups: Unethical and Unproductive. |
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Hey are you following me? I just did this a few days ago.
Short of AIR (that's how I did it) or a flywheel holder its going to be a pain in the rear. Mine came apart pretty easily once all the bolts were out. (I didn't count them) I'm on like can 4 of gunk and gallon 2 of "Super Clean" with the pressure washer and it is ALMOST clean. one of the 6 large clamping bolts on mine was missing a washer but it did not appear to have ever been split before, fortunately for me, the crank looks pretty good, the bearings all looked good just worn.
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Join Date: Feb 2002
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you need to get a fly wheel lock. they're cheap. also there is one bolt that is hidden at the back of the case. if you don't get that one you will never split the case.
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I've found out that I have a "GE" case (ala VW bus). With a phenomenal 67hp!!!! Do you think I should move on and look for another case/engine all together? I'm not certain what the best course of action would be at this point. It seems that, while the experience would be nice, it would be almost futile (since I can tell, based on what I've read - and my own tendencies, I'll always wonder what a 100 - 110hp would be like...as I'm puttin' around).
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Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Tacoma WA
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try a post at shoptalkforums or german lookforum(glf).you get lots of input with regards to that question.
kevin |
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100 hp turns these cars from bug like performance into a big smile producing experience. I have only driven a 2.7 six once and that produces a huge ***** eatin grin that didn't wear off for hours.
Look for a 2.0L 914 engine, there is one in the classifieds at 914club.com
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76 914 2.0L Nepal Orange (2056 w/Djet FI, Raby Cam, 9to1 compression) www.914Club.com My Gallery Page |
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