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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tobra View Post
I like using the regular jacking point with a floor jack and
this thing Jack stands on the sides under the door sill. I have little rubber hats on the jack stands to protect the car. You can also jack front and rear, rear under engine bar, front in the middle, using piece of wood to spread the load.
+1

Get two. I put them in the tube and use the tube for a jack stand support, to get the jack stand out of the way and not worry about compromising the tube.


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Old 09-30-2017, 06:42 AM
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I don't know for sure but I think you need to drop the engine and trans to put the stainless steel gas lines in the tunnel. I dropped mine when I did my 74 1.8L.
Old 09-30-2017, 07:49 AM
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The ratchet jack stands are not a great idea. The ones secured with pins are less likely to let go when you are under the car. One of the guys on 914world had to have his face reconstructed when a ratchet-type stand let go. (Seriously.)

Access is very tight if you try to replace the center tunnel lines with hard lines without dropping the drivetrain. I think it is still possible, but definitely easier without trying to work around the engine and such.

To keep the Ronal wheels, you will probably have to start looking at "vintage" tires. The Vredestein Sprint Classics are available in the original size (165/80-15) and supposedly are tires very like the originals that would have come on the car from the factory. Going wider you will likely either have to modify the fenders or get different wheels, with offsets that are specifically for the 914 instead of for a Bug.

BTW, glad you mentioned what kind of wheels those are. They are beautiful on the car!!

--DD
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Old 09-30-2017, 03:09 PM
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Thanks for tips on jacking and the fuel lines...will have a closer look before making decisions....|Dave thanks for tire suggestion, am finding only ONE option so far being Continental and actually the spec tire for Smart Cars! Scary that the only option for my Porsche fits a Smart Car....but at least I have one more option now....I REALLY like the rims and they are apparently a bit rare and hard to find but may have to look at moving them on and finding a more suitable replacement to find a decent tire....problem is not a fan of the stock options for the 4 bolt 914's........
Old 10-02-2017, 09:11 AM
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Hmm... It may be possible for someone to convert them into three-piece wheels by cutting the wheels up and using the centers for the center of the three-piece.

Obviously not a reversible operation, but it could let you go with a different offset to get more tire.

--DD
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Old 10-02-2017, 10:58 AM
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I have put SS fuel lines in cars with the motor in, sort of a pain, but doable.

This is sort of a two man operation. There are electrical lines in the tunnel that you do not want to get twisted with your fuel line. I used a coat hanger to hold them out of the way while doing it.

You will probably want to do the shifter adjustment too.
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Old 10-02-2017, 01:24 PM
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Tks Dave, would be an option to look at........Tks for the tip Tobra on running the lines and will certainly be doing an adjustment....can find 1-2-3 and they feel right but 4-5 just binds and refuse to engage so clearly either bushing or adjustment issue....or likely both :-) Hoping to get it in air and get a better look this weekend
Old 10-03-2017, 08:24 AM
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Ok, so another issue and question......looking today at fuel pump lines and a but confused? Pump is located in front of engine compartment by spare tire and has 3 outlets. My understanding is that one is fuel in, one is pressurized fuel out and third is overflow or return......Ok so on mine the one on bottom with fuel filter would be supply and the middle one fuel to motor....so far so good. However on mine the third (top) has a bit of an octopus thing going :-)
The third outlet has a hose that runs to a "t" from which a hose runs to TWO hoses that disappear through trunk wall???? I expected one but two? Havent pulled tank out to try to figure out what the routing is but figured I would ask for thoughts before I got there.... Picture below might help explain....again any ideas appreciated.
Old 10-08-2017, 05:28 PM
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Next to the fittings on the pump should be labels; "S", "D", and "R". You may have to turn the pump around to see them. I believe that they are, from top to bottom on your picture, "S" then "D" then "R".

S = suction
D = druck, which is German for pressure
R = return

The plumbing goes as follows:
Supply line from tank, to fuel filter, to "S" on pump.
Pressure line from pump to driver's side fuel rail.
Return line from the pump to a Y-shaped splitter. The Y combines fuel coming back from the fuel pressure regulator with fuel coming out of the R port on the pump, and then sends both of those back to the fuel tank.

--DD
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Old 10-09-2017, 10:52 AM
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Yes the picture posted is indeed upside down, sorry. Ok so the fuel lines are actually correct then....A couple of diagrams I had seen didn't show the "Y" or the two lines connecting to the rtn so was wondering what was going on.....Lines look a bit rough and got a slight fuel smell when turned ignition on and pump activated...will replace them and likely look at replacing lines back to engine as well....will look for numbers and add to my growing " cart" :-) Tks again Dave
Old 10-09-2017, 12:02 PM
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I have 3 Ronal rims et25 and 4 matching Ronal center caps, in very nice, unmolested condition. Pm me if you're interested.
Old 10-13-2017, 01:26 PM
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My steering wheel in really bad shape, and would like to update to Momo style wheel....been reading about adapters and confused as see threads saying adapter no longer available for my 1970 4 cyl but appears this "JWST-ECC-BL" part advertised here would work? Can anyone clarify for me? Tls
Old 10-22-2017, 01:30 PM
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You might be able to recover the steering wheel
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Old 10-23-2017, 08:46 AM
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Tks, certainly an option but not a real fan of the look of them at the best of times but may have to.....
Old 10-23-2017, 02:48 PM
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Check to see if your pedal bushings or return springs are worn causing the slow brake pedal return.
Old 10-24-2017, 03:17 PM
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