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Porsche Crest No Voltage from Sensor

Hello everybody, I ended up getting a rebuilt head and replaced the head, head gasket, timing belt and balance shaft belts along with some hoses and plugs. The started right up and ran great for a day till the DME relay went out. Replaced it and was running great again till a few nights ago. I was shifting to 3rd gear and the car just died. I'm getting no tach bounce and no spark. I checked the sensors and on pin 8 and 27 I was getting no voltage so I bought another sensor and thought it would fix my problem but no. What would cause the sensor ohms reading to be good but no voltage coming back from the sensor. As i understand it the reference sensor should get a voltage reading above 1 and the speed sensor below? Is this correct. Thanks for any suggestions.

Old 01-12-2019, 02:02 AM
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You need oscilloscope to see sensor waveforms.



What spacing did you set for each sensor? Included figure-8 washer?
Old 01-12-2019, 10:55 AM
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I put a .8 washer on the end of an old sensor and used the speed sensor slot to set the bracket. As per instructions on Clarks web site. So with a volt/ohm meter connected to the correct pins, I won't get a voltage reading as I turn the car over. I worked all day and still no start or tach bounce.
Old 01-12-2019, 05:01 PM
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Is this a turbo or NA car?
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Some people try to turn back their "odometers." Not me. I want people to know 'why' I look this way. I've traveled a long way and some of the roads weren't paved.
Old 01-12-2019, 06:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by geowhitten View Post
I put a .8 washer on the end of an old sensor and used the speed sensor slot to set the bracket. As per instructions on Clarks web site. So with a volt/ohm meter connected to the correct pins, I won't get a voltage reading as I turn the car over. I worked all day and still no start or tach bounce.
Or these:

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Old 01-13-2019, 05:29 AM
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Did you look for AC volts?
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Old 01-13-2019, 07:50 AM
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The car is an NA. I just tried looking at DC volts. I don't have a second computer to check it out. If the sensors were not working correctly the computer would not send a signal for fuel or spark correct.
Old 01-14-2019, 06:37 AM
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You need to look for AC volts at the speed or reference sensor to see anything.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zeFOOcLSk60
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Old 01-14-2019, 11:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by geowhitten View Post
I put a .8 washer on the end of an old sensor and used the speed sensor slot to set the bracket. As per instructions on Clarks web site. So with a volt/ohm meter connected to the correct pins, I won't get a voltage reading as I turn the car over. I worked all day and still no start or tach bounce.
Did you get both sensors to 0.8mm spacing?
Also test resistance between sensor-plug terminal and terminal at DME connector. Bad cracked wiring is common and people replace speed/ref sensors needlessly because of bad wiring.

- test resistance end-to-end of signal wire
- test resistance end-to-end of ground wire
- test resistance between signal-terminal and ground-terminal



You can trim off wiring just before corroded/cracked section and replace terminals and connectors with new parts listed here: DIY - Harness Connectors
Old 01-14-2019, 11:32 AM
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Thanks for the help, I will take your suggestions and try them out tomorrow and let you know. I know I only did the spacing on the reference sensor. When the car stopped on me going into third gear as I pulled over I though I smelled burning plastic as in a burnt wire but have been trying to trace it down with no such luck. I have checked for continuity between the sensor harness and DME computer but all seems ok?

Old 01-14-2019, 10:33 PM
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