DIY - Harness Connectors

[DannoXYZ]

I'm listing sources for the engine-harness connectors to make repairs or to build your own replacement harness. Some items have multiple sources with slightly different configurations. Such as complete connectors with pigtails or individual components of housings, contact-terminals, seals and boots. Many thanks to IceShark for teaching me a lot of this stuff.

BACKGROUND
The Bosch/TE/AMP connectors used on the car are from the Junior Timer series. They are connection-compatible with the Junior Power Timer series as completed plugs & sockets. Although the contact-terminals inside the housings have to be from the same series. So if you're building a connector with Junior Timer housing, you have to use Junior Timer contact-terminals inside it. Same with Junior Power Timer housings and terminals. I recommend using the Junior Power Timer series whenever possible as they are more robust with double-catches, double-springs, and can accept wire-seals for better weatherproofing. Junior Power Timer terminals shown below.


INJECTOR/ECT/KNOCK-SENSOR CONNECTORS, 2-position
Mouser - TE/AMP 85202-1 - female housing, Junior Power Timer, new style finger-operated spring-clip, black
Mouser - TE/AMP 282680-1 - female housing, Junior Power Timer, new style finger-operated spring-clip, grey
Napa - CRB 218457 - new style finger-operated spring-clip, pre-assembled with pigtail
Napa - CRB 218545 - old style square spring-clip, pre-assembled with pigtail

SPEED&REF-SENSOR/SPEEDO/ISV CONNECTORS, 3-position
Mouser - TE/AMP 1-962581-1 - male plug, Junior Power Timer
Mouser - TE/AMP 368356-1 - female housing, Junior Power Timer, new style finger-operated spring-clip
Napa - Echlin ECH-EC173 - new style finger-operated spring-clip, pre-assembled with pigtail

AFM CONNECTOR, 5-position
Mouser - TE/AMP 282766-1 - female housing, Junior Power Timer, new style finger-operated spring-clip

TPS CONNECTOR, 6-position
Bosch 1 287 013 004
Nissan 300ZX MAF connector

TERMINALS, SEALS, BOOTS
Mouser - TE/AMP 925595-1 - female terminal, Junior Timer 17-13ga
Mouser - TE/AMP 927845-1 - female terminal, Junior Timer 20-17ga
Mouser - TE/AMP 925596-2 - female terminal, Junior Timer 20-15ga

Mouser - TE/AMP 964273-1 - female terminal, Junior Power Timer 17-13ga
Mouser - TE/AMP 964284-1 - female terminal, Junior Power Timer 20-17ga
Mouser - TE/AMP 964280-2 - female terminal, Junior Power Timer 24-20ga
Mouser - TE/AMP 964280-1 - female terminal, Junior Power Timer 24ga

Mouser - TE/AMP 1-965982-1 - male terminal, Junior Power Timer 22-18g
Mouser - TE/AMP 1-963860-1 - male terminal, Junior Power Timer 24-20g

Mouser - TE/AMP 828905-1 - wire seal white
Mouser - TE/AMP 828904-2 - wire seal blue
Mouser - TE/AMP 880810-1 - rubber boot, 2-position
Mouser - TE/AMP 880811-2 - rubber boot, 3-position

After crimping, I also like to dab a little solder at the tip of the wire (only enough to cover all bare wire and not past the strain-relief crimp). This is done in mil-spec, aerospace and F1 wiring. The solder adds mechanical strength to the joint (we've all pulled wire out of a crimped-only connector). It also seals the wire-end and prevents moisture from creeping up in between the wire-strands to cause black/green wire disease. Finally add a little strain-relief loop to the wire to prevent breakage where it enters the housing. These areas are the biggest issues with the factory wiring.

Although I don't like to use the rubber-boots as they have too much air-space inside and allow too much flexing of the wire right where they enter the connector. This is the weak-point in the factory harness where the wires for the injectors & speed/ref-sensor connectors will break. I prefer to apply 3-layers of staggered heat-shrink tubing over the joint to create a progressively stiffer wire as it goes into the connector. Will upload some photos later when I replace the female harness connectors and the male plugs on my sensors.

[sausagehacker]

Great thread! I made a spreadsheet earlier this year with some parts pricing and URLs in it. Although what you posted is far more useful in my opinion.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/12102615/Harness.xlsx

Advice for anyone looking into this: skip the OEM style connectors and get the ones that are "quick disconnect." You know how the stock connectors have a metal clip that you need to pry out of the way in order to pop off the connector? There is a solution...

EV1 Connector: Air Intake & Fuel Delivery | eBay

All you need to do is depress the clip and it pops like you would expect. Running them on my newly made harness and it's what should have been installed from the factory IMO.

[v2rocket_aka944]

Danno, do you have a name or part number for the pin connectors on the main DME harness plug?

[pfarah]

Danno, I also have a question...
Do you have the manufacturer and part number for the terminal crimp and extraction tools? I prefer to buy a ratchet style if possible. The jacket on one of my fuel injector cables is damaged so I need to remove the socket terminals and install some shrink tubing (and replace them if needed). I'm not keen on splicing the cable, just trying to keep harness integrity. Thanks!

[DannoXYZ]

Originally Posted by v2rocket_aka944

Danno, do you have a name or part number for the pin connectors on the main DME harness plug?

Hi Spence, you need one of the 3 female Junior Timer terminals I've added to above list. These fits all the female Junior Timer connector housings on the car if you need to replace just the terminals. Pick the right size for the wire you're using.

[DannoXYZ]

Originally Posted by pfarah

Danno, I also have a question...
Do you have the manufacturer and part number for the terminal crimp and extraction tools? I prefer to buy a ratchet style if possible. The jacket on one of my fuel injector cables is damaged so I need to remove the socket terminals and install some shrink tubing (and replace them if needed). I'm not keen on splicing the cable, just trying to keep harness integrity. Thanks!

Here's a set of extraction tools. EagleDay - extraction tools
Use the small rectangular tip on the red tool for Junior Timer terminals. Then use the double rect. tip on the green tool for Junior Power Timer terminals. Might help if you bend the double tips towards each other slightly. Insert tool into hole in connector housing, push IN the wire slightly while wiggling tool, then pull wire OUT to remove.

If you already have crimping-tool that uses replaceable dies, you can get some of these:
ErgoCrimp - Junior Power Timer crimp dies
AMP JPT crimp tools.

Or basic crimping tools for Weatherpack series will work as well:
EagleDay - double crimp tool
ToolTopia-Tool Aid 18930
BMotorsports - Wide Range crimper

[pfarah]

Ah, the Ergocrimp is the die I'm looking for as I have several AMP frames. Thanks!!

[DannoXYZ]

can't edit original post. Here's updated info on TPS 6-position connector:

TPS CONNECTOR, 6-position
EFI Hardware - Bosch 1 287 013 004
Nissan 300ZX MAF connector
Z1 Motorsports MAF connector
ebay - 300zx MAF connector
ebay - 300zz MAF connector
Autolumination - 300zx MAF connector kit

[jmc1590]

Danno, Good stuff here! I'm going to throw this in as I've recently run across an issue. I just purchased a handful of Junior Power Timer housings to rebuild a harness. The orientation of the contacts on the Junior Timer vs the Junior Power Timer is different (90 degrees). I believe that the female connectors will not install in the wrong housing (JT connectors in a JPT housing.) As such, here are a few more housings for use:


AMP/TE 827551-3 Junior Timer Housing, 2 Position, Black with Spring Clip Quick Connect


AMP/TE 827578-1 Junior Timer Housing, 3 Position, Black with Spring Clip Quick Connect


AMP/TE 827579-1 Junior Timer Housing, 5 Position, Black with Spring Clip Quick Connect


Hope this helps!