Motor Mount Access - Need Hints!

[OK-944]

Yup...time for motor mounts!

Thing is - they haven't been changed since the car (an '87 NA) was new, so...32 years of oxy-welded goodness!

I'd dropped and removed an engine from my previous 944 (an 85.5) - so figured that just removing these mounts would be relatively simple. Ha!

While I did manage to get the large single nuts off of the mount bottom bolts, its the upper mounting bolts that are being a real pain. I can get some movement to the driver's side bolts/nuts...and I think I'll take the air/filter box off for better access.

But...the passenger's side - hmmm. Have been hitting those nuts with PB Blaster and they still won't budge - and with the space being so tight...its really difficult to get good purchase on these. At this point it looks like I either need to remove the header pipes, or the PS pump (and perhaps PS rack as well), or all of the above - just to get decent access.

At any rate...I'd be eternally grateful if folks who've done this could chime in with a few suggestions/hints/strategies. Thanks!

[drkshdw]

I haven't actually done it yet (plan to in the coming weeks) but supposedly it's a lot easier if you remove the motor mounts with the brackets and separate them on the bench. Then bolt the new mounts onto the brackets and reinstall as a unit.

I don't know how accessible the passenger side bracket bolts are from the bottom (the headers are in the way going in from the top) but the drivers side bolts are right there when you remove the air box. It just seems a lot easier doing it this way than any other method that involves the cross member.

[IdahoDoug]

I did this last year on my 84 NA, and it was not too bad. IIRC, I disconnected the engine cradle and lifted the engine slightly while pushing the cradle/crossmember downward with gentle prying. There are a few excellent videos on YouTube by Edredas or very similar in spelling. Fantastic guy, terrific videos.

[OK-944]

I'll try going in from the top:

On passenger side - loosening water pipe and ps reservoir and moving each out of the way, then removing top header pipes...then supporting engine from bottom and (having previously removed bottom nut from old motor mount), removing the engine support strut along with the mount (still attached with two top bolts). Then, remove and replace mount on strut and reinstall.

On drivers side - remove airbox and afm as a unit, then repeat procedure as outlined above.

Should work - and seems like much less hassle than going in through bottom. Will report back to share results.

[jhowell371]

Read this : Changing 944 engine mounts the easy way.

[OK-944]

Thanks for the link...sounds like a plan!

[OK-944]

So this guy removed the header pipes, water pipe, and changed out the passenger side mount, and got all back together...in 30 minutes? Heck...it just took me almost two hours to get all of the header nuts to move! At any rate...onward!

[Ga 951]

...."So this guy removed the header pipes, water pipe, and changed out the passenger side mount, and got all back together...in 30 minutes? Heck...it just took me almost two hours to get all of the header nuts to move! At any rate...onward!"

IMO, just support the engine from the top and lower the crossmember. You do not have to remove it, just back the bolts out enough to get the space you need. I think I remember having to use a shorty 13mm wrench on the MM. Way easier than removing the top of the engine. Consider the additional pain if you were to snap one one of those crusty exhaust mani bolts!

[OK-944]

Yeah...I hear you! While I've loosened all of the header nuts, I have not yet "broken the seal," so I will, once again, try to loosen the motor mount (M-8) nuts with my 13mm shorty, and if this works, I'll re-tighten the header nuts and proceed from the bottom

What I really need though is a 13mm open end flex head. Where can I find one? Seems like all that's available are flex head combo wrenches - with the flexible end always being closed. What gives?

[OK-944]

Whew! More than enough suspense, but I managed to get all of the header nuts off and the headers are now out of the car.

I think I will replace the nuts and gaskets for the top pipes…and all of the hardware for the bottom connector pipes - but the exhaust studs look OK. One of them actually unscrewed with its nut attached and it looks fine, except for where the nut is attached…but I think I’ll just reinstall this as is. I’ll make sure to apply a bit of copper anti-seize as I reassemble.

Then again…should I, as a matter of principle - just go ahead and replace the studs anyway?

[Ga 951]

I would change the studs and nuts. You should be able to double nut the studs out. Some have replaced the studs with bolts. I elected to stick with the studs.
I hope the MM comes out easy after all that work!!

[drkshdw]

Someone on RL just posted how he did his from the top today.

https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-944-951-968-forum/1137481-i-changed-my-engine-mounts-from-the-top-here-are-pics.html

[IdahoDoug]

Wow. I am with Ga951. Messing with the exhaust and manifold bolts can turn a several hour job into a couple weekends.

[OK-944]

Well...just found another reason to be glad I extracted the header pipes: one of them has a very small crack - not surprising given the extra strain on them related to the old, collapsed motor mounts. At any rate...should be an easy weld.

Stupid Question: I think these headers are made of stainless steel - does this sound correct? They are obviously not cast iron, and I don't know the spec metal for these as they came from the factory.

[djnolan]

I wonder if the mount bolts on the right side are more accessible when the WP and oil cooler is removed as when you do your FOES? (instead of removing the exhaust?)