Looking for local help

[Nevadarain72]

Hi all,

I made my first ever foray into the world of project cars (previous vehicles were "normal" daily drivers) at the beginning of February this year with the purchase of an '87 951. Overall she's in good shape for her age, but she's definitely a project. There are valid points to be made about getting a Turbo vs NA or buying a car with modifications that weren't well-documented, but I've jumped into the deep end of the pool and am determined to start swimming.

So while I'm not regretting my decision, I am realizing that I'm out of my depth in some unexpected areas. Not knowing how to do things like removing an intake manifold was a given, and something that I can research and look up online thanks to communities like this one. But one area I could use some help with is figuring out the baseline condition of a normal 944. For example, I've seen threads where members ask if the car smells like gas more than normal, and I have no idea what that normal is supposed to be.

With that all said, I'm wondering if there are any members in the Seattle/Everett area who are more experienced than I am who would be willing to meet up with me at some point and help me get a better understanding of how the car is, and what needs attention. If that person is out there, I'd offer them compensation via cash, gas money, pizza & beer, etc.

Pictures of the lady in question:

[djnolan]

As an out of towner, I wouldn't mind giving an opinion given a few more pictures. The exterior looks fairly stunning. How does the interior and engine bay look?

[Nevadarain72]

Man, you get so focused on an idea that sometimes you can't think of alternatives. I'll take whatever help is offered, so here are a few more pics I've taken previously.

[Nevadarain72]

Oops, looks like the forums don't like .png files. Trying again with a jpg for the engine bay. This is a photo from a month or so ago, and doesn't reflect the replacement fuel lines and fuel jumper line. That last one burst when trying to start the car in the driveway, hence the immediate need for replacement.

[pfarah]

The car looks like in nice shape. Good luck with it!

[kdjones2000]

Here are my guesses:

1) Suspension looks to be stock and probably original. You should expect to replace your struts, (Koni hacksaw mod is the best option for your car) and shocks.

2) Check your ball joints/control arms. You will likely want/need to rebuild the ball joints, and I suggest you go for the M030 caster blocks from the 968 (only OEM option available now). These should get rid of any small vibrations you may have in the steering wheel at highway speeds.

3) You have a Lindsey boost enhancer on it, which means you likely are running with modified chips in your computer, and with a 3.0 bar fuel pressure regulator, and probably higher than stock boost.

4) The blowoff valve looks to be the stock one, which is very prone to failure. Think about replacing that with a good aftermarket one.

5) Turbo engines run HOT! Check all of your rubber lines and such around the engine. You will probably end up replacing them all.

6) Unless the PO went and already did a front engine reseal, you likely have dirt and oil all over your engine. Learn up on how to do this yourself, as it will save you major $$$ in the long run. There are some special tools you will need for this.

7) Change your transaxle fluid with some good synthetic stuff, and lube your CV joints.

Overall the car looks to be in decent shape. Get it up to snuff and it should last you for many fun years...

[djnolan]

Agree with KD 1000% Two items of most significance on this engine rare the timing belt and the fuel lines.

If the timing belt is of unknown age and condition it could break and cause valve damage due to the interference engine design so I would run the car sparingly if at all until you cna determine condition and replace if necessary.

And the fuel lines run over the exhaust manifold and could leak and cause an engine fire and need replacement if they are original. There are more rubber fuel lines underneah near the tank and fuel pump, that could be replaced, too.

Both of these repairs are relatively straightforward but there are a few pitfalls such as fuel leaks starting an engine fire or improper cam timing damaging the engine if you don't know what you are doing.

The best resource for repair information is here: Clark's Garage Home Page

Many on this forum will be willing to help either on line or in person.

[Nevadarain72]

Thanks for the input everyone so far. Here are some additional details I received from the PPO (the PO only had the car for a year and didn't do much with it) this afternoon:

-One of the owners installed the M030 suspension bits from a 968
-"Recently" did the clutch, throw out bearing, driveshaft and torque tube
-"Not too long ago" did the timing belt, water pump, and idlers.
-Head has been O-ringed to handle the added boost
-Weltmeister performance chip

Appreciate the pointers; in particular 6 and 7 were ones I hadn't even thought of yet.

For the blowoff valve I'm assuming that the car is still running the stock-style AFM, which from my reading means it's a recirculating-type vs vent to atmo, yes? Are there good threads I should look at for finding a solid alternate part?

When I was under the hood replacing the fuel lines (appreciate you looking out @djnolan) last month, I discovered a couple of vacuum lines that weren't connected to anything, one of which had a toothpick stuck in it to plug the hose. So I've got a Lindsey Racing vacuum hose kit on order to replace all of them. Is it possible to do so without removing the intake manifold?

[kdjones2000]

They probably only swapped out the sway bars. You need to do the main suspension bits, most likely.

No, you need to remove the intake manifold to do a proper job. Don't try and shortcut things at this point.

[mikepellegrini]

Nice car!

The Lindsey boost enhancer doesn't add any boost, per se. From Lindsey:

"By completely closing the flow of pressure to the wastegate diaphragm and keeping it closed, it eliminates losing valuable exhaust gas pressure prematurely and spools the turbo up quicker. Then, at the appropriate pressure setting, opens, and allows the wastegate to function normally and monitor the maximum boost pressure. This translates into quicker boost and more horsepower from the lower RPM range."

You'd have to chip the computer and KLR to go over stock boost. And I'm guessing that anyone who went that far would install a manual boost controller and a wideband sensor, as well as a 3 Bar FPR and bigger injectors.

[Nevadarain72]

Originally Posted by mikepellegrini

Nice car!

The Lindsey boost enhancer doesn't add any boost, per se. From Lindsey:

"By completely closing the flow of pressure to the wastegate diaphragm and keeping it closed, it eliminates losing valuable exhaust gas pressure prematurely and spools the turbo up quicker. Then, at the appropriate pressure setting, opens, and allows the wastegate to function normally and monitor the maximum boost pressure. This translates into quicker boost and more horsepower from the lower RPM range."

You'd have to chip the computer and KLR to go over stock boost. And I'm guessing that anyone who went that far would install a manual boost controller and a wideband sensor, as well as a 3 Bar FPR and bigger injectors.

I have a receipt for a DMR/KLR chip from 1991, but no MBC/EBC installed. I also did some poking around in the engine bay tonight and determined that the FPR is a Bosch 2.5bar unit. Should I be looking into a replacement, either 3.0bar or adjustable?

I'll tell you what though: it starts with "hey, I should replace these vacuum lines", then when you find out you have to remove the manifold, you research what else should be done while I'm in there, and 3hrs later you're pricing out a MAF conversion kit and billet fuel rail setup.

[mikepellegrini]

Ha! Yeah, once you start upgrading stuff, it's hard to stop.

What kind of chip/KLR did they put into it? 951 Max, maybe? They're awful popular. Programmed for a stock airbox and injectors?

Yeah, if you want to get the most out of the car, a MBC and a 3 Bar FPR are in the future. Plus a better boost gauge. Like I said, once you get started, it's hard to stop. A wideband, a MAF, bigger exhaust, bigger turbo, etc. It never ends.

Vacuum lines are a good place to start, unless you believe they've already been replaced. You could delete the venturi's while you're in there. They always seem to leak.

Good luck with it! It'll take all the money you can throw at it, and more.

[Jfrahm]

Wouldn't a 3 BAR FPR just dump in 20% too much fuel in open-loop (inc. WOT) unless you have software designed for it? If your chips are for the stock FPR then IMO stick with the stock FPR.

Otherwise, good advice so far. Check and locktite the AFM to airbox bolts, these tend to get sucked into the turbo.

[Nevadarain72]

Originally Posted by Jfrahm

Wouldn't a 3 BAR FPR just dump in 20% too much fuel in open-loop (inc. WOT) unless you have software designed for it? If your chips are for the stock FPR then IMO stick with the stock FPR.

Otherwise, good advice so far. Check and locktite the AFM to airbox bolts, these tend to get sucked into the turbo.

Based on the records I have, it looks like one of the PO bought a chip back in 1991. I have a printout and sticker that says it's from Authothority, part number 951.020.200.20, "for '86-87 944 Turbo, Stage 2".

Initial Google searches seem to indicate two things: one, that Autothority is now out of business, and two, that they were good chips for the day, but made the car run rich. Sounds like looking into a more modern chip might be worth pursuing?

[cfassett]

The Autothority chips required a jet in the vacuum system. The boost enhancer would serve the same function, but I don’t believe you want to have both. Others can chime in.

You should check to see if you have a jet in the banjo bolt. As I recall, it will be in the banjo bolt at the end of the boost enhancer. If it’s there, I suggest removing it to prevent over-boosting.

BTW, nice car! Looks like you did well on the purchase.

[Ernie944]

Originally Posted by kdjones2000

Here are my guesses:

1) Suspension looks to be stock and probably original. You should expect to replace your struts, (Koni hacksaw mod is the best option for your car) and shocks.

2) Check your ball joints/control arms. You will likely want/need to rebuild the ball joints, and I suggest you go for the M030 caster blocks from the 968 (only OEM option available now). These should get rid of any small vibrations you may have in the steering wheel at highway speeds.

3) You have a Lindsey boost enhancer on it, which means you likely are running with modified chips in your computer, and with a 3.0 bar fuel pressure regulator, and probably higher than stock boost.

4) The blowoff valve looks to be the stock one, which is very prone to failure. Think about replacing that with a good aftermarket one.

5) Turbo engines run HOT! Check all of your rubber lines and such around the engine. You will probably end up replacing them all.

6) Unless the PO went and already did a front engine reseal, you likely have dirt and oil all over your engine. Learn up on how to do this yourself, as it will save you major $$$ in the long run. There are some special tools you will need for this.

7) Change your transaxle fluid with some good synthetic stuff, and lube your CV joints.

Overall the car looks to be in decent shape. Get it up to snuff and it should last you for many fun years...

First your car look very nice both ext & inter.Agree with all of the above...without starting any kind of threads may I suggest some products that over a long period of time I had very good results with & that you may use to help you out...first Tranny _Diff ...Red line MTL Synthec 75W 90 Your cooling system will be happy with this flush.[img]http:[/img]*3 The touchy part which I'm sure will bring some neg & pro comments engine oil
Valvoline VR1 Syntec 20W50 as summer oil.Had it in my ex 968 & just love it.Have fun working on your new to you Porsche & if not sure about something just ask ,lot of experience folks on this forum has you can see.

[Nevadarain72]

Okay, more things to check per suggestions from here. Thank you all very much so far; I've been trying to find the solutions to issues searching online, but it's nice to have current responses to look at.

One follow-up question: for blowoff/bypass valves, is there enough advantage between using something like a Turbosmart dual port vs a LR billet piece to justify the 2x price jump?

My overall goal with the car is to 1) make her reliable enough to be able to do a 500-600 mile road trip in August/September (lockdown allowing), and 2) have just enough mild mods to have power output be in the ~270-300hp range. I'm not interested in giant HP numbers, racing, etc. A couple of the previous owners did some autocrossing, so I want to treat her like a retired greyhound racer: a nice easy life, driving a couple days per week on fun back roads.

[Jfrahm]

The stock recirculation valve IMO is fine, upgrading would be for bling. A dual port would need more sophisticated control. I've had at least 5 cars with the same valve on them and never had a problem.

The wastegate, some probably would suggest this is worth upgrading even with a stock turbo and if the spring is dying that's true, or the stocker can be shimmed.

270-300 (net HP at the crank I assume) is pretty significant, 25%+ more HP. That's more than is sensible through the AFM with a stock turbo. A cheater turbo would get you to 270-280 at the crank.

You have to remember that off boost it's like a 140HP low compression 8v 4 cyl engine and you are doubling the output, which takes more than 2x the air given the temperature of the boost.