944 Automatic - Need help/instruction Replacing Flex Damper

[Tidybuoy]

I'll take any advice I can get on replacing the Flex Damper on my '88 Automatic.

Unfortunately, there's no definitive instructions (that I can find) for this procedure.

I would love to hear from anyone who has done this procedure with advice. At this time, i won't be converting to manual or putting in a fixed clutch disk - I already bought the new flex-damper. However, now that I'm into the project, I wish I had spent the money on a manual setup before I spent the $dough on the flex-damper.

So Far: edited as progress was made
Removed exhaust
Removed speed & reference sensors
Removed starter (can see shredded flex damper thru starter hole - looks ugly)
Removed ground wires & cable straps from clutch/damper housing
Removed rear axle shafts
Removed all exhaust hangers & loosend hose clamps arount torque tube
Removed Transmission (I'm exhausted, lot of work but done)
Got 3 of the 4 front bell housing bolts removed, gonna go to sears tomorrow for some new tools. This one bolt is in a tough spot and if it were to get stripped....I'd be major screwed. I will spend on better tools before trying.

Questions I have:
1) It's not looking like there's too much room to maneuver the torque tube and there are special hooks (which I imaging are for safety, in case of an accident). At the back of the torque, just next to the rear tortion tube, there is a bracket that "looks" like it is supporting the torque tube...does this get removed? I haven't seen this addressed in anything I've read.

2) once I get the flex damper unbolted from the flywheel, does anybody know how far back I need to pull the torque tube to get to the circlip and room to remove the actual damper?

3) I was thinking of cleaning the axle cv joints, while I have them off. Is it safe to scoop away as much grease as possible and then clean with carb cleaner or gasoline - then repack with new grease? I'm just asking since I son't want to get a surprize and have a bunch of ball bearings fly out.

This has been pretty time consuming, but not as bad as I was dreading. I've been taking a lot of photos and I will post a photo-documentary when I'm done. It seems like there's any info of this process out there (for automatics, anyway)

Thanks a bunch, in advance.

Vern


Hard to see in this photo, but the rubber on the damper is only on the right side, the driver side rubber is almost completely gone:

[Tidybuoy]

Making Progress:

View of the Tranny out, just the torque tube & flex plate showing:


Torque tube, with exhaust removed. I scribed & put a dash of paint where the exhaust hangers were for easy re-assembly:


I bagged and labled all groups of bolts, etc.. since I won't be re-installing for a few days & my memory is sure to fail:


Transmission will get scrubbed clean tomorrow. Used a piece of plywood ontop fo a regular floor jack and that worked fine. Sitting on a dolly now:


One casualty...when I pushed the car out of the garage, the passenger side bumper shock compressed and won't pull out. I will try pulling again but at this point, after working all weekend on this car, I can barely stand up straight (I'm too old for this):

[indio76]

Wow, that's some kind of job!

I don't have answers for you, just my fear that sooner or later my '86 will need a similar job.

I have a question anyway, what are the symptoms of a faulty damper?

Difficulty for gears? Noises?

For example in mine, when I change to Reverse the gear enters but not smoothly, it seems like the leverage push too hard?!

Thanks for the attention, cheers from Italy

[Tidybuoy]

I'll have pictures of the old flex damper soon.

The symptoms were vibration for the past few months and then suddenly, very loud clunking. Sounded like you dropped about 10 bolts into the oil filler - not a good sound at all. I do think I had a slight humming noise for the past 6 months but I'll have to see if that goes away with the fix.

Your problem could be the linkage needs adjustment - not my area of expertise but the 944 shop manual addresses that kind of stuff.

[HondaDustR]

At least for the standard cars, You must unbolt the tube from the front bellhousing and lift/rotate the tube so the hooks face upwards and allow the tube to be pulled back until it stops against the fuel tank, or whatever it eventually runs into...about 10-12 in total regardless, which will provide the space to swap parts on the flywheel. How you free the shaft from the damper, I have no idea, but I "think" it's a pinch bolt that must be loosened and completely removed, similar to the drive shaft coupler on the standard cars.

[Tidybuoy]

Thanks! Once I got the front bell housing unbolted and some some movement, I was able to lift the torque tube up an inch and tetting the ears (at the rear) over the hurdle. I moved the whole thing back about 6 inches.

Before doing anything, the flex damper had to be unbolted from the flywheel (thru the starter hole). Then it can be seperated from the engine. After that, there's a circlip at the front that must be undone, and a shaft coupler that must be loosened. Once the shaft coupler was loose, I was able to slid the damper about 1/2 inch and that allowed me to get to the circlip easier.

Horray! I'm 1/2 done

[looneybin]

or are you just 1/2 started

[Tidybuoy]

Originally Posted by looneybin

or are you just 1/2 started

It's a reverse metaphor...but with me the glass is half full, so in this case, I'm 1/2 done.

[JPSummers]

Started this job today.... this post & replies helps....thanks guys :-)

[Rensb]

Vern - When you mention that once you got the Bellhouse loose (unbolted) that you were able to move it back 6 inches of so to be able to access the Damper Plate.
I'm at the start of this same journey of taking the exhaust off, removing the drive axles, and dropping the Trans to get to my Damper Plate.
It looks like i've only got about 1/4 of an inch (it that) to move or slide anything back.
Were you able to rotate it in some way?
How did you deal with the hard trans coolant lines that run over the bellhouse and over the Torque Tube?
I'm trying to be as methodical about this process as I can - I like to do all of my research before I start turning any wrenches.
My exhaust is on it's way to being off, and I've started bagging and labeling parts.
Moving the Bellhouse back concerns me because I just don't see very much room to slide it back to access the inter part of it - any tips / advise you can give - PM me if you can - Typing to save a pristine automatic.

[akron]

Just a note on the bellhousing bolts. A flex head ratchet is gold in those spots! Once the bolt is broke loose an electric ratchet and extensions works wonders!

[Johnny O]

Originally Posted by Tidybuoy

Making Progress:

View of the Tranny out, just the torque tube & flex plate showing:


Torque tube, with exhaust removed. I scribed & put a dash of paint where the exhaust hangers were for easy re-assembly:


I bagged and labled all groups of bolts, etc.. since I won't be re-installing for a few days & my memory is sure to fail:


Transmission will get scrubbed clean tomorrow. Used a piece of plywood ontop fo a regular floor jack and that worked fine. Sitting on a dolly now:


One casualty...when I pushed the car out of the garage, the passenger side bumper shock compressed and won't pull out. I will try pulling again but at this point, after working all weekend on this car, I can barely stand up straight (I'm too old for this):

I had a bumper shock get stuck, and I was able to put my jack in between using cardboard as not to scratch any surface and it popped back into place. It was fairly simple. I hope this helps you also...