Checking line-up after belt change?

two_larsens · 05-30-2003, 11:35 AM

I have just replaced all the belts on my 1984 944. Now, after having read post after post I'm a bit worried about starting it up due to the risk of bent valves and such. I have made sure that the flywheel lined up to the mark on the housing all along, and it still did before I rotated the crank two full turns to see if it still would line up at the rear housing, which it also did - at least at the same place as it was before. Are there anything else I can check before the dreaded startup? The marks I made on the rollers were smuged off early in the proceedings, so that I had to go by memory. Are there any marks from factory anywhere on those?
Previous owner had not taken care of the car at all, and had taken several things that I later had to find, like the lower balance shaft tensioner. Also P.O. drove it without the balance shaft belt, (it was just hanging there), so I couldn't go by his settings. Is there a way of making relatively sure that it's not going to rattle apart, and otherwise selfdestruct? (I have tensioned the belts). I used the Optibelt tool, and followed the numbers on that, and I can twist the timing belt on its longest strectch 90 degrees. If the timing somehow is slightly off, then what can I do about it?
Hopefully somebody can help with this before I turn what I hope is not the self-destruct button, counting down to from five.

Henrik Larsen

Shepper · 05-30-2003, 12:53 PM

If you have turned the crankshaft two full revolutions by hand with the timing belt on, you will be fine as far as pistons hitting the valves.

If you had it wrong, you would not be able to turn it 2 turns by hand.

overkill · 05-30-2003, 01:23 PM

Dude, the only rollers you have to align is the balance shaft rollers and even if thier off, nothing will damaging will happen. There are marks on the balance shaft rollers that you use to align the rollers. As long as you didn't move the flywheel and the cam gear you should be fine. You did turn the cam gear to tdc too right? Well, as long as you didn't move them you'll be fine start her up! She'll run.

Porsche944 · 05-30-2003, 03:50 PM

Henrick:

The alignment marks for the balance shaft rollers are formed into the plastic of the rear cover.

The upper balance shaft's mark is at about the 1 O'Clock position, and the lower shaft's mark is around the 5 to 6 O'Clock position.

If you have not removed the cogs from the ends of the balance shafts, just install the balance shaft belt and align the the marks on the upper and lower shaft gears with their respective marks on the rear cover, and then tension the belt.

two_larsens · 05-30-2003, 05:28 PM

Alright, I started the car up and it ran fine. It was quite nerve racking I'd say since I am learning as I go along about this. I had just read some of your old posts, overkill, and that made me a bit uneasy

Is your car good again? Anyway, the only thing I had to adjust was the belt guide between the waterpump pulley and idler since the cam belt at times flapped on there, making a racket. Thanks for the replies all of you. The next thing I have do is fix the side front light, rear wiper and gauge lights, plus align up the front lights.

Henrik Larsen

overkill · 05-31-2003, 06:07 AM

Ok, first, my car is still running good for the guy. Second, do you have the tensioning tool? When does the cam belt ever have enough slack to slap the belt guide thing? Also, how do you adjust that? It bolts in and thats it. Are you talking about the shinny slide like thing towards the top of the belt cover in between the cam gear and the top balance shaft roller? Plus, I had to set the timing while doing the belts, you lucked out

two_larsens · 05-31-2003, 07:16 AM

Yes, I lucked out not having to do what you had to do

However it still is a bit tricky doing the belts, in particular following the Haynes manual, which can be confusing at times. I read, and re-read it a million times so I knew (kind of), what I was doing. The belt tool I used was the Optibelt tool, from Blaszak's website, and it seemed to work alright. The reason why the beltguide was close to the cam belts run was because I had to pry it slightly to even get the belt between the waterpump pulley and the guide. For some reason it did not come off. So I was forced to do that. It was only a matter of prying it back. It runs great now, real calm. See, when I got it I only payed $800, but I also got what I payed for since it was in horrible condition, inside out. The interior I have fixed up now, so it looks like new now. It was shaking a lot before too and screaming like crazy when the wheels turned. Now with new power stearing, alternator, balance and cam belt its the first time I got to hear how its supposed to sound, and act.
I am glad that I didn't buy the official Porsche belt tool as it is a lot of money, and really this worked good.