968 window switch continual failure

[roverbau]

The electric window switches on my '94 968 periodically stop working. I've had them apart perhaps 4 times in the last 7-8 years. Each time the contacts and balls are cleaned and they work well for a time. I've tried a couple different lubricants but they just keep failing.

So, I'm looking for what others have successfully used as lubricant in their switches to keep them working.

I think the seat switches are going to need attention soon too. The driver's side switch got to be intermittent a couple years ago and didn't seem as easy to remove as the window switches so I blasted some WD40 and it's been fine (I was traveling and didn't have the time/tools to dive in).

Thank you

[Monkey Wrench]

Id use some dielectric grease for that. It's non conductive and designed to keep corrosion away, any decent auto parts store will have it. you can put it on electrical spade connectors and use it when cleaning your ground wires up etc. I'd do any cleaning with deoxit. Its expensive so I like to have a regular contact cleaner for rough or initial cleaning,or use WD 40 as a washing solvent. Deoxit does a good job of actually cleaning off the contacts. the sprays won't hang around so long but the grease will stay in place better. so I'd clean and then lube with that. you dont need much.

I haven't had this issue with my porsche yet but in my volvo winder motors and the wiper motor I found they ran but slowly and with a high amp draw. the problem was that the magnets which are glued to the case broke free due to rust and then were attracted to the commutator. I found the thing still ( rather surprisingly) running, but with loose magnets and the commutator was all polished up from this where it should normally have a bit of clearance, not be in contact with the magnets. If you have a motor that seems excessively sluggish I'd disassemble and clean that too or it will cause more spark due to the higher current draw and run slowly, about 1/2 or 1/3 the normal speed. I cleaned up the interior of the motor case and glued them back in place with JB weld and that worked fine.

likewise if you can free up tracks and wipers and things like that it may slide more easily and that will lower the amp draw too. I haven't seen the outer wiper seals it might be good to change both inner and outer, if you can find a source as they help keep water out of the door.

In the porsche the right and left are probably different so the driver has both switches, but in the volvo with 4 doors I sometimes put any one that gets used a lot in the back seat as that one almost never gets used. I'm not near it now and can't remember if the switches are separate.

I found a little brush in an electronics store, its like a pen but has a bundle of glass fibers you can extend as a bunch , it works well to clean in those tight spaces.

sometimes stuff gets frozen and stuck in winter you cna spray parts with silicone spray just bear in mind that silicone spray can also hamper any repainting. a common one is PAM cooking spray, Auto painters hate the stuff, silicone causes fish eyes in painting and it is terrible for that. I will use it to stop door seals from freezing to the door frames. If you plan on doing any painting soon keep it well away, same with "Armour all".

someone smart might know what amp draw to expect, it can be measured. higher amp draw will mean more sparking on the contacts themselves and maybe premature wear.

[Jfrahm]

Mine caused trouble but responded to frequent cleaning for years, replacing them turned out to be better than cleaning them as I have not had to clean the new ones.

If the windows are sticky that might burn out the switch contacts sooner.

[roverbau]

Thanks for the good answers.
I believe I used dialectric grease the first time as that is my standard for electrical parts/connections. I've not heard of deoxit but will check it out.

I also did not think of sticky window channels causing high amp draw that would task the switch contacts more. The windows do seem slow albeit not overly slow so that is something that I'll probably look into. I've got some great silicone spray called Team McLube that is used primarily on sails so they will raise and lower more easily. I like it because it is clear and won't stain cloth in any way, unlike a lot of silicone sprays that leave a white residye. But yeah, trouble for the paint guy for sure.

All three switches are the same so swapping around is possible. That said, I did take all three apart once or twice (while I'm doing this . . .) and none of them seemed to exhibit any wear, but they were dirty.

I appreciate the help. Thank you.

[944 Ecology]

Originally Posted by roverbau

and none of them seemed to exhibit any wear, but they were dirty.

Of course, the real test is the resistance when the points are in contact.

[djnolan]

i think the window regulators need grease and not a light spray lube. Try superlube synthetic grease. Use an old toothbrush to brush the grease into the regulator tracks where the rollers run. remember that the window regulator is subject to a lot of road dust so may need to be cleaned first, and regreased in a 30 year old car.

[djnolan]

Edit, more info: Rennbay 944 Window Regulator Roller Repair Kit:
Windows in the 944 don't go up and down as well as they used to? Does the window clunk or get misaligned when you try to put it up? The problem is the little plastic rollers on the end of the window regulator arms.

For some time now 944 owners have been buying new and used window regulators to solve this problem for astronomical amounts of money. Why buy a whole new unit when all you need to replace are three plastic rollers?

The solution is here. This kit has the three rollers needed to repair the power window regulator back to factory new working condition.

[944 S2]

Had the same issue on my S2. Finally solved when I replaced the switches. Bought a pack of three from amazon. Quite reasonable. Been working trouble free since.

[originalowner]

Originally Posted by djnolan

The problem is the little plastic rollers on the end of the window regulator arms.

I've replaced these on my driver's door, and have a spare set on hand because you know the passenger door is not going to be far behind.

[Dano944]

I’ve had different switch problems in my 1983 944 window switches since I’ve owned the car for 3 years. I’ve replaced all 3 switches twice. It’s been like going in circles: Passenger door switch doesn’t work, so change the drivers-side passenger switch. When it stops working again, replace the switch in the passenger door. They work for awhile then fail again. I take the switches apart, clean and reassemble, which works for a time, then the switches fail again. I bought 3 new switches in case I’m out driving on a trip, and a switch fails. It’s quicker and easier to snap in a new switch instead of rebuilding on the road. I once owned a 1972 Mercedes and the window switches would fail regularly. I wish I could replace my German switches with Toyota switches. I’ve got 200K on my Toyota with no switch failures.

[roverbau]

Looks like the time has come to really tear into the doors and make sure EVERYTHING is cleaned, lubed and in good condition with reasonable electrical draw. I know the switches are easy and, while I’ve not been into window mechanisms in the 968 I’ve been into quite a few non-Porsche cars.
Thanks again all.