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Registered
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Virginia Beach, VA
Posts: 1,791
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DIY port and polish?
anyone done a basic port and polish on a 924 head before? i've called EVERY place in my phone book and NOBODY around here wants to take on this task. the next closest place i can find to do it is so far away i'd have to ship the head to them and wait a few weeks.
if i follow the advice in this article, can i get some basic performance improvements? http://www.sa-motorsports.com/diyport.htm at the VERY least, what about just polishing the exhaust ports? i'd rather get this done before the new engine comes in. thanks! obin |
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Registered
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: Wheaton,Il USA
Posts: 101
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You can get very good results yourself. If you follow those guidelines you will feel a remarkable difference. The 924 n/a head suffers from very poor port design and casting. This can be improved dramatically with a little clean up.
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Registered
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Virginia Beach, VA
Posts: 1,791
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awesome!!!! thanks! i am going to do this on my spare cylinder head. that way if i screw something up, then it's no huge loss.
i also found this: http://www.eastwoodco.com/cgi-bin/sgin0101.exe thanks! obin |
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Registered
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Virginia Beach, VA
Posts: 1,791
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Quote:
http://www.huntleyracing.com/heads.htm 944 N/A, 928 2V (X2) $500 core charge applies Stage I - Basic re-build with new valve guides, valve stem seals, proper shimming, seat work, fully assembled. Price $500 Stage II - Same as stage one plus flow benched hand porting and aggressive valve seat work (like dyno tuning, flow bench testing is the only way to port and polish). This is not your basic P&P job! We also add .3 to .5 compression points during the surface job. Price $875 obin |
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Registered
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: NC
Posts: 411
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It can be done DIY but for best results, a flow bench is a must. You can make significant gains with just polishing and matching the runner sizes, we used to use a gasket for the template, you just have to be careful with the grinder, and be sure to thoroughly flush the grinder dust off when finished.
Dave951M |
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Registered
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Virginia Beach, VA
Posts: 1,791
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Quote:
intersting! thanks! obin |
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Registered
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: NC
Posts: 411
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Yep- they don't do it from the factory on any stock production engine I've every worked on.
One way to check it is to take the gasket for the intake and exhaust, and check the clearance on each part on either side of the gasket. I think you'll find that they aren't the same. This is a really old trick, we used to use it building domestic V8 engines. It does make quite a bit of difference and is cheap to do. The only caution is to not go crazy with the grinder and take off too much metal. One other caveat, don't use a grinding wheel on aluminum, it will only load up the wheel. With it's expansion rate, it is very possible to shatter the wheel or burr. For aluminum, you can use a high speed steel bit. Good Luck- Dave951M |
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