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Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Queens, NY
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Please help: Alternator problem

Ok, so I took off the alternator today, I noticed one of the 2 bolts holding it in place (top bolt) was not threaded in completely, it was about half an inch out, so anyway, I get under the car and start releasing the tension from the belt by turning the tie-rod, ok so maybe I turned the wrong side and instead ended up breaking one of the A/C compressor bolt holes because I was pulling on the compressor, as I was turning the tie rod the wrong way, what can I do about this: it broke the bottom bolt HOLE of the A/C compressor, it broke the top half of it off and I saved the piece , its aluminum so can't be welded by my shop but I am taking it to someone else who can weld aluminum, what else can I do in case te welding wont work.

Anyway, back to my real problem, I took out the alternator because when we tested the battery voltage off it was at 12, turned car on, tested voltage and it was giving power but at high-rpms the voltage went down, I took the alternator to a rebuilder guy and he knew my dad so he charged me 25 bucks to change the brushes and clean it up inside, however, he tested it before that and it was chaging just fine, full power it was higher than 14 volts, so what is the problem then? Please help, thanks.

On my battery the positive terminal has the two plate thing....where you put the wires in and then you screw in 2 bolts to clamp down on the wires, I remember someone saying this was bad...believe it was SoCal, so it must be true , why is it a problem? could that be my problem? thanks.
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Old 07-13-2004, 07:48 PM
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anyone?
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Old 07-13-2004, 09:42 PM
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Unfortunately the electrical cables on these cars corrode terribly.

I have swapped out the entire positive and negative cables on both of my current cars..... the grounds were terribly corroded!

The corrosion normally can't be seen and will definitely affect your charging system... Prior to the complete overhaul (icesharks kits) ....I had dim dash lights and guage reading 12 volts, after the upgrade I was reading close to 13 on the guage (higher at the battery) and the dash lights were much brighter (easy to compare against my other car).

I would at least start by cleaning all the terminal ends.... If you can replace all the grounds I would do that as well........

Replacing the voltage regulator was a great place to start as well... (an adjustable regulator would be my first choice)

The two plate thing on the terminal is ok.......... just make sure you use some dielectric grease at the terminals to help prevent corrosion as well...
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Old 07-13-2004, 10:20 PM
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ae1969... is not the voltage regulator on the alternator?
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Old 07-13-2004, 10:59 PM
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Hummmm, well your alternator repair shop tested the alternator and replaced the voltage regulator and brushes. Everything checks OK.

So why would output drop at high RPM? Belt slipping badly would do it and sounds like you had a problem there. See what happens when you get your compressor eye welded back up.

Then I would think about vibration and the battery cables. You may have a bad connection or fractured cable (inside the insulation) that is increasing the resistance as it is shaken at the higher RPMs.

I'm not exactly sure what sort of battery clamp you are talking about. Is it the stock swagged main cable terminal that you bolt on all the other positives to? Or the type where the main battery cable is clamped between 2 "plates"? The latter type is not very good as you get corrosion between the cable core and the plates. As Alex noted you can use dielectric grease but those wires are bare copper and not tinned much less soldered so you are going to get corrosion. The first type of terminal is also going to be a corrosion problem after 20 years because it is not soldered and the corrosion walks up the wires inside the terminal.

So check belt first when you get that fixed and then it is off to the battery cables.
Old 07-14-2004, 03:40 AM
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Ok I got the compressor eye welded today...30 bucks! but nice job i must say, this time I did not overtighten the belt but am not sure how tight it's gotta be tensed to, well I am putting everything back, just didnt finish everything because I found a few tears in the rubber hose that hoes to the turbo and put some silicone gasket maker on it, its blue so it looks kinda bad, I ran out of the black silicone...damn!, I left it to dry overnight, but got the alternator back on and correct me if I'm wrong but the bottom bolt hole for the alternator is not threaded correct? it just needs a bolt to go through and a nut on the other side to hold it? My friend gave me a hand and took off the bottom one and I wasnt there so I didn't know what he did with it or where he put it or what it looked like, I couldnt contact him either so I went around looking for different bolts till I realized that it wasnt even threaded, but I could be wrong, so anyway I got a bolt and nut holding the bottom part of the alternator, took forever too, the ratchet wouldnt catch and the wrench ratchet didnt want to either, by catch i mean it didnt let me "click" back so I could tighten again and then "click" back again, it just turned the friggin screw on the way back, I'm sure there is a word for this, other than ANNOYING, anyone? tomorrow I will finish up everything and see if I can diagnose the problem with the voltage and whatnot.
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Old 07-14-2004, 10:08 PM
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