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auh auh is offline
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running w/o thermostat

I changed my thermostat and its working, but not all the time. My car occasionally will still reach the 3/4 line on temp gauge.

I was wondering how bad it would be if I just ran without the thermostat?

Thanks
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Old 04-02-2005, 07:43 AM
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Keep in mind, this is a year round car
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1974 914 1.8 Sold...
1984 944 my baby...more of a pain in the @$$ than takin' it with a cucumber, but I still love it. THE CAR YOU PERVS!!!!!!!!!!!!
1990 Nissan 240sx fastback aka Japanese 944
Old 04-02-2005, 07:44 AM
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I wouldnt take the thermostat out as the coolant will pass through the radiator to quickly and not cool the water down sufficiently enough..When you replaced the thermosat,did you bleed the cooling system after??That is a must.Also,be sure all the fans are functioning properly..
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Old 04-02-2005, 07:48 AM
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Don't do it. Your car will take longer to warm up to operating temperature and it'll cause more wear and tear on the engine components. 3/4 mark on the gauge isn't bad but if you are unhappy with it change the fan switch to a lower temp. one.
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Old 04-02-2005, 07:58 AM
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Ok ok, it stays. As long as your telling me 3/4 is ok. I'm just so used to cars never going over the 1/2.
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1974 914 1.8 Sold...
1984 944 my baby...more of a pain in the @$$ than takin' it with a cucumber, but I still love it. THE CAR YOU PERVS!!!!!!!!!!!!
1990 Nissan 240sx fastback aka Japanese 944
Old 04-02-2005, 12:05 PM
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Make sure all the air is completely bled out.

If it still runs hot, Put a bottle of Redline Water Wetter into the cooling system. That should solve your problem.
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Old 04-02-2005, 03:22 PM
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3/4 is okay, but not the best it could be. Continue troubleshooting - it could be a number of possibilities. Does it need bleeding again? Is the waterpump impeller worn out? My relatives' 944 had a similar problem and it turned out to be a faulty dash guage. But this was after a long, painful diagnosis of the entire cooling system........
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Old 04-02-2005, 03:23 PM
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It continuesly runs between 1/4 and 3/4. Runs at 3/4 till the fan turns on, then drops down to 1/4 in about 30-45 seconds and stays for a few min till it goes back up to 3/4
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Old 04-02-2005, 08:00 PM
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Hot temps is a sign of cooling-system efficiency, that is how many BTU per second it can shed. This is a function of water flowing through the radiator and how much air is flowing through it. You can see the difference when the fans kick in. So something may be hindering the water-flow through the radiator; the water sits in the engine-block longer and is heated more than desired.

Might want to check out the thermostat, it may be clogged. A thermostat that's operating correctly will be fully opened by operating temperatures, so removing it won't help that much. Same idea with a lower-temp thermostat, it will be fully open by the time the engine reaches the lower 1/4 mark.

Did you have the thermostat facing the correct way when you installed it? With the rubber gasket?

How about the coolant-tank cap? Have it pressure-tested

Might be air-bubbles, be sure to burp the radiator hose and bleed the screw on top.

Might also be clogged radiator, have it back-flushed.
Old 04-04-2005, 04:38 AM
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ok, I feel really bad asking this...but how do you bleed the cooling system?
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1974 914 1.8 Sold...
1984 944 my baby...more of a pain in the @$$ than takin' it with a cucumber, but I still love it. THE CAR YOU PERVS!!!!!!!!!!!!
1990 Nissan 240sx fastback aka Japanese 944
Old 04-04-2005, 06:42 AM
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TO bleed the coolant system, First park the car on a small hill, with the nose up in the air. (ramps work as well) Then, Follow the upper radiator hose until where it meets the block. there's a small bleed screw on the top of the fitting where the hose meets the block. loosen this with a 12mm wrench. You don't need to remove it, but you can remove it if you like. Add coolant/water mix to the coolant fill tank, until it runs out the bleed screw. Close everything up, and that's it.

By the way, be careful tightening the bleed screw. It's hollow, and somewhat fragile. as long as you keep the aluminum washer in place, you don't need to tighten it very much to seal.
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Old 04-04-2005, 06:58 AM
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Should the car be running while doing this?
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1974 914 1.8 Sold...
1984 944 my baby...more of a pain in the @$$ than takin' it with a cucumber, but I still love it. THE CAR YOU PERVS!!!!!!!!!!!!
1990 Nissan 240sx fastback aka Japanese 944
Old 04-04-2005, 07:47 PM
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auh, my fans used to kick on at the 3/4 mark until i replaced the thermofan switch a few months ago. My car is also an 84 and it used to operate just like yours. It seems a lot of people dont think it is that unusual for the temp to reach the 3/4 mark on the early models but I didnt like it, especially in Chicago traffic. I used to have the high temp thermofan switch and now I have the low temp so my fans kicks on at 1/2. I also just replaced my thermostat and waterpump, and my temp is very constant at just below the 1/2 mark.
Nate
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Old 04-04-2005, 10:23 PM
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How hard is this fan switch to change?
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1974 914 1.8 Sold...
1984 944 my baby...more of a pain in the @$$ than takin' it with a cucumber, but I still love it. THE CAR YOU PERVS!!!!!!!!!!!!
1990 Nissan 240sx fastback aka Japanese 944
Old 04-04-2005, 11:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by auh
How hard is this fan switch to change?

Pretty easy, you can reach it from underneath and it is on the left rear side of the radiator. A word of caution: the switch screws into a brass boss cast into the plastic end tank of the radiator. If you have an original radiator that plastic will be somewhat fragile so don't go crazy torquing the new switch down or you will crack the end tank. And have to have a rad shop install a new one or buy a new radiator.

On bleeding the system, something no one seems to have mentioned is you want your heater valve on and wide open to get the air out of the heater core.

And you do the final bleed through the vent screw on the top of the elbow on the forward top of the block with the car running. Crack open the bleed screw and watch until just coolant, and no air bubbles, is flowing out. Then tighten it back up.
Old 04-05-2005, 06:06 AM
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I'd recommend gettin a cooler thermostat. I found that NAPA had a 160 or 180 that would work. Get the coolest one they have. You will have to reuse the gasket that's on your current thermostat, but it'll work great and your car won't get past 1/2.

You will need a 90 degree tipped ring pliers to take out the old thermostat and yes, it's a PITA. It took me 2 hours to get out my old one and 10 min. to change it out and refill the system.

To bleed the system:

get the car warm so the fluid is pumping, then crack the bleeder screw on top of the front of the engine SLOWLY. Now, fluid will start to ooze out with air bubbles as well. Let it seep out until you have solid fluid coming out, then tighten the screw again and you're done.
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Old 04-05-2005, 07:33 AM
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I put in a 160 from NAPA last week, thats why I originally posted this, because the car was only running slightly cooler slightly longer than before.

When you change the Thermoswitch, will coolent come out that hole? JW cause I'll buy coolant before changing the switch.
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1974 914 1.8 Sold...
1984 944 my baby...more of a pain in the @$$ than takin' it with a cucumber, but I still love it. THE CAR YOU PERVS!!!!!!!!!!!!
1990 Nissan 240sx fastback aka Japanese 944
Old 04-05-2005, 10:01 AM
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Yes, coolant will come running out so you want to be quick about pulling the old one out of the hole and getting the replacement started on the thread. Make sure you don't get two gaskets on as they will probably leak then. If you are fast about it you will only lose a cup or less of coolant.
Old 04-05-2005, 10:14 AM
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Here is the simple method (called the "Heger Burp") I've used many times with success:

Ok, The EASY way to bleed...

1) Make sure that the car is on a level surface.
2) Open the bleed screw
3) pour in the coolant/distilled water mix until it comes out of the bleed screw (yes, it will be well over the "full" mark on the reservoir)
4) close bleed screw, leave the cap off of the reservoir
5) start car
6) turn the heater control to FULL HEAT, turn the fan on to 4.
7) let the car heat up, the coolant in the reservoir will burp and go down as this is happening
8) you may rev the engine to get the engine to heat up faster and to get it to open the thermostat
9) Once the thermostat opens (the reservoir will burp and the coolant level will decrease) add more coolant
10) let the engine continue to run to fully warm up. Keep adding coolant as needed.
11) You can rev it a little to move the coolant/any remaining air out of the system as needed.
12) once the radiator fans have cycled at least twice (on-off, on-off) and the reservoir is not burping air anymore, fill to the full line or above and put the radiator cap back on.
13) you're done.

Use a good (no silicate/no phosphate) antifreeze and distilled water in a 50/50 mix.

I've done this many times and it works well. Be sure to wash down the area with water to make sure no animals lick up any spilled coolant. You WILL spill coolant.

As with any scalding hot liquid, be careful.

(Above copied and pasted from an earlier post by Dal Heger on Rennlist.)

Additional tip: a lower concentration of antifreeze will aid cooling efficiency, but you don't want to go lower than a 30/70 mix, and only if you know the raised freezing point will be OK for conditions in your area. Adding half a bottle of Redline "water-wetter" also helps (do this after the system has finished "burping" or you're liable to lose all that expensive water-wetter!). Also, I always open the bleed screw one last time at the end just to make sure there are no bubbles. Never found any, but it's a useful reality check.

-Mark
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Last edited by Mark944na86; 04-06-2005 at 02:09 AM..
Old 04-06-2005, 02:02 AM
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"I put in a 160 from NAPA last week, thats why I originally posted this, because the car was only running slightly cooler slightly longer than before."

Exactly. If the car's running at 200-F, it doesn't matter if you've got a 160 or 180-F thermostat, they are both fully open. The only difference between the two is how much time it takes to get to the 1/4 mark. Once there, they are both fully open and all operations after this point will be identical. However, changing from a clogged thermostat to either a 160 or 180-F thermostat will result in tremendous difference in cooling.

Mark's procedure is pretty much right on with the one I use. The trick is to leave the radiator cap off while the car warms up so that bubbles will be worked up. Also some people knead the larger radiator hose coming out of the water-pump to work any trapped bubbles out.
Old 04-06-2005, 05:38 PM
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