New 951 - More Advice Please, Part III

[Dan in Pasadena]

Okay, here are a few pictures I took this afernoon. You guys have really helped and I am not out of the woods by a long shot, but wanted to at least show you what you're helping me with:








I'll post a variety of pix of small electrical connector problems and vac line fittings that are broken. Not sure what these things are, hoping you'll tell me which are critical and which not to worry about short term.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Okay, here are the problem pix. I think the locations are self evident, but if you have a question about what you're looking at, please ask. I THINK the cooling fans still aren't running and the oil pressure sender is still not connected. Obviously, these take precedent. Both windows decided to stop working - not a fuse problem. I am assuming the relay, but I couldn't find one today and it's like $40 retail. I haven't checked our host or "used" yet.
If you know a great source for relays - windows, cooling fan, turbo cooling pump - PLEASE tell me about it. Here goes:

Obviously, this is an easy fix. I'd like to use an original type connector, but I could go with a standard spade connector (2ea.) and a short length of wire to get it back beyond the singed part of the wires, then solder and shrink wrap.


What the hell is this? Does this connector go with that port below it or just coincidental? It doesn't "connect" in any way, something missing?

This is about centered on the firewall at the back of the engine. It doesn't seem to impact anything whether connected or not. That nipple is paritally broken. Some kind of standard, non-Porsche, NAPA or Pep Boys connector should work, yes?

This is at the right front near the headlight. Next picture I
have flipped it over in my hand and it is obviously fried. What is it? What should it be connected to?

[Dan in Pasadena]

Last,

This does not appear to be for a stereo or anything. It tracks back toward the middle of the firewall.


This one is pretty much for onewhipped puppy/Matt. Those red lines are for the MBC.
The black line going down (out of the Tee) is going to the top of the Lindsey wastegate. The right leg of the red line is going over to the CV. The left red line goes down to the other or side port of the WG.That's not right, I think. I thought that with a Manual Boost Controller the CV was not used at all. If that's true, then why is it conected?...and how SHOULD this go? Is that causing something bad to happen? Should the line up from the top of the wastegate go directly to the MBC and then a second line go directly back to the other (side) port of the wastegate? Next picture just barely shows the connection being made to the CV. It's the red line you can just see.

[swimmingly]

Originally posted by Dan in Pasadena


What the hell is this? Does this connector go with that port below it or just coincidental? It doesn't "connect" in any way, something missing?

That's the connection for the turbo water pump. If you put a nail or something else that's metal in one hole and connect it to the other, that should make the turbo water pump (electrically driven, obviously) work and make that whirring sound.

There's suppose to be some sorta metal piece that looks somewhat like a grain of rice that fits in between the two. As of yet, I haven't seen any place sell that part or anything like that part.

[swimmingly]

BTW, your 951 has a lot of same problems as mine. We should meet up and work these out together. I don't have a trained eye like you, so I have a lot of broken/disconnected things that I don't even know about.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Swimmingly, How certain are you about that? I only ask because if I start sticking nails in electrical conections... well....you get my point? Wrong place and bad things happen fast! So, is this the sensor that tells the turbo cooling pump to turn on?

onewhippedpuppy/Matt told me the turbo cooling pump is buried down near the turbo. I'll check our host and the usual places for this thing.
I will probably try taking it out to see if it has a part number stamped on it.

As to my "trained eye" - well, um... thanks, but my eye is trained to inspect construction, not turbo Porsches! I got in the engine compartment with a spray bottle of degreaser and a can of brake cleaner, a toothbrush and Scotchbrite pad and started cleaning things up. That's how I ran into all this stuff. I used the garden hose with a spray head on it set very, very low and bit by bit started cleaning/looking. I am anal about my cars and I've got a long way to go to get this thing whereI would want to keep it.

Sure, drop me a PM with your contact info and we can arrange a meeting.

[ae1969]

1. That is the sensor that triggers the pump.

Its a grounded connection. You splice that wire and add a eyeloop and then bolt it to the top of the sensor.

Too check that its working just ground that wire. You will here the pump go.

2. The brake fluid cap one is an easy as you mention as well. You have the right idea.

3. The broken vacuum fitting you should be able to rig something up as you mention. You have a vacuum leak here. It is small enough that its probably not doing much to driveability. The nipple connects over to the heating functions/valve etc....

4. The two connectors over where the windshield washer reservoir is are for the two pumps.........headlight/windshield sprays.

5. The one by the battery terminal looks like it has been rigged for something....... I would remove it.

6. That MBC /CV setup is not optimal......... but I can't recall what you said was in this car? Chips? Who's?
Otherwise you would bypass the CV........
- Boost line coming from banjobolt on intercooler pipe..... gets split into a T
- One side goes direct to the top. On the stock wastegate (which the lindseys is) boost line is on top.
- The otherside connects to the MBC ....and then the other side of the MBC connects to the side port.

P.S the car is looking very nice by the way.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Alex - Your timing couldn't be better, thanks for the detailed response.

If I ground that wire, the turbo cooling pump will come on - car running or not? Car hot or not? What keeps the pump from running all the time then if I just bolt that up? (EDIT- Oops, re-read this after posting. The friggin SENSOR -hence the name dumbell- senses when to turn it on or off! - Doh!...my bad). If the pump does NOT run when I ground that wire, I can assume that either the pump isn't working or the relay is shot, right? What is the easiest way to determine which of the two is the culprit? How about a straight 12V jumper wire from the battery to the pump, (wherever the hell it is)? If it pumps it's the relay, if it doesn't its the pump?

Assuming the pump works, you're saying to use a solderless eye-type connector (except I'd solder/shrink wrap it, of course) and then just use a small bolt to connect it to that sensor. Am I understanding you correctly?

Items #2-#5 I will get to - doesn't sound like they are critical at all.

Item #6 - The car is chipped, I don't know the brand. Some company with the words "Custom" and "Programming" in their name. I will pull them out of the DME and KLR this morning (or at least take pictures) and post them. Frankly, I don't have much confidence in them unless someone here knows them. I'd feel better with a name brand, Weltmeister, etc. or even stock...probably need stock to pass California smog.

As to the MBC piping - I don't think I am following you. You're saying the CV gets bypassed entirely - Okay, I've heard that here. (What happens to the electrical connector on the CV if otherwise unused? Leave it? Disconnect it?).

I know the Lindsey WG uses the bottom portion of a stock wastegate, but the top portion has the top and side inlet/outlets which provide the adjustability. Can you re-state what should go where? Stock vs. with Adjustable WG, please? I am unclear on this. Thanks for the compliment on the car. Most seem to like those wheels - I don't, and will change them out at some point after I fix the mechanicals.

[bigyagi]

nice looking car ! i hope you get your electrickery problems sorted soon. not sure about the 951, but on n/a, the connector near the h/light relay etc, looks to be for the w/screen washer motor. i feel your pain, as i'm hopeless with electrics.
good luck.
bob.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Alex - SUCCESS!!!
Jumped that turbo cooling pump wire and the pump....pumps! Alright, now we're cooking. Don't have to buy a pump or relay. I LIKE success. It pumps for 25-26 seconds and according to Clarks Garage that's how long it's supposed to if the car is run at all, even when it doesn't make tempterature. 30 seconds after running - seems like a very smal diff, why not 60 seconds?! Anyway, I am fixing the wiring now. Don't have any metric bolts, so I'll look at my local hardware store - got to pick up some solder anyway. If they don't have it, I'll just use a sheet metal screw (Primitive Pete!). It'll bugger the threads, but that isn't a connection I am going to take apart often.

Hello Bob,
I've looked around (I'll look again) but there is no obvious place for that wiring to mate with. Again, because there was a minor engine fire, who knows what got messed up and perhaps just cut off?! I don't think it was that bad a fire, the dipstick is toasted, the hood insultation was removed and not replaced, a few things. So I am surprised that little connector got damaged up front there...hmmm? Oh well, not a priority right now.

I'll post my fixes too if anyone is interested.

[swimmingly]

Dan, have you noticed any major problems from having that hose broken off on the T-connection in the middle of the rear near the firewall? Mine isn't connected either, I can't even find the hose that it was suppose to be connected to!

[onewhippedpuppy]

http://karl.wilen.us/images/VacuumLine2.doc
http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/showthread.php?t=202381&highlight=vacuum+lines

Take a look at this for the vac lines, I haven't had to tear into them myself, and I don't have an MBC, so I can't give too great of an answer. It outlines deleting the CV, as yours should be. Good luck, and very nice car, very much worth the work you're putting into it!

[Dan in Pasadena]

Hi everyone. Sorry it took me until Monday morning to get back to this.

First, I spoke too soon. The turbo cooling fan isn't working properly, it won't shut off when the wire is permanently attached. When I tested it I just jumped the wire to ground momentarily....I didn't HOLD the ground.... the fan shut off after 26 seconds. Then I did the splice/eyelet/permanent attachment and it won't shut off. I THINK that means the sensor has malfunctioned, right? Opinions? That's probably why whomever left that connection off!

Swimmingly, no, nothing happens that I can tell with that broken connection. But it is still a vac line, so at a minimuim if you are thinking to leave it alone, I would plug it. On mine, I am getting a replacement fitting. Probably from GeorgeB at 944 Ecology...apparently along with a turbo cooling fan sensor/switch!!

Matt- Thansk for the links. I will print them out and study them before I ask anymore questions. Thanks too for the compliments. On the Part II thread I told you I had installed the replacement shifter and ball cup holder. What a difference! That ball cup holder was broken in two so I am sure that was the main problem. Wear on that shaft was definitely there, but not bad. Car shifts better than my NA now, smooth, tight, snick-snick!

[ae1969]

Yup.......bad sensor.

Whipped posted a good writeup on vacuum line routings and MBC setup.

Try and limit boost to 11 psi with that MBC until we figure out what you are running.

Otherwise keep at it.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Alex, I'm not even driving the car right now except in and out of the dirveway.

So, yes, I totally agree with you to keep the MBC set at it's lowest setting until all is sorted. I will, will, will pull the cover off the DME/KLR and get the info off those chips. Who knows what kind of fuel mapping (other?) is on those things. I'm not chancing anything until I find out, right?!

Also, I have the turbo gage, but have not installed it yet. Still a little fuzzy on where to make the connections so it works properly, but I will follow onewhippedpup's (Matt's) advice. And last, of course is getting the regular cooling fans and the turbo cooling pump, along with the oil pressure sending gage hooked up. Without all that stuff, I ain't driving this thing anywhere.

Sure wish I could find a local shop that was a LOT more conversant with this stuff. My wrench is a great guy, but he's a 911 guy and even a 944 guy, but NOT a 951 guy. Any local SoCal references, anyone?

[onewhippedpuppy]

Dan, kudos on your approach, lots of people (me) wouldn't be able to resist driving it around some, but you have the right idea by fixing it before you enjoy it. When it comes time for the boost gauge, I'd look back at those links I posted, I think some of them may make more sense than the approach I took. When you open up the passenger's floorboard to check the chips you'll see the KLR line, that'll make it much more clear.

[onewhippedpuppy]

I forgot to add, if you buy chips, don't waste the money on Weltmeisters, Vitesse are much better, and John will go out of his way to help you out.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Matt, Thanks for the advice on the chips. I am buying a set of used stock chips for the car from Clark of Clark's garage (Fletcher?) as I'm pretty sure I need those to pass California smog. I related that on the other post I think. I am crossing my fingers that once I i.d. the chips in the car, someone will know something about them and they will be useable. But if there is any question, I suppose I will have to buy Vitesse - how much are we talking about? Probably hundreds?

I'm not all that long suffering, I just can't see driving a car without a functioning cooling sysatem or without knowing that there is oil pressure!

[Dan in Pasadena]

By the way, what is the correct name of that "sensor" that turns on the turbo coolant pump? Is it a NAPA part or a Pelican part (looked, didn't find it). Anyone have a part number?

[Dan in Pasadena]

Oops, thought of another question: Is the turbo cooling pump sensor replacement an R&R job? Or is there more to it? Burp coolant? Other?