starting problem need experienced help!

[924Sracer]

I have an 87' 924s that won't start. A couple of weeks ago the car ran fine. Untill one day I went out and started it and about 30 or 45 seconds later it would die, and it did this numerous times. I had this problem previously and it turned out to be fuel pressure regulator, you could unplug any one of the conectors to a fuel injector and it would run on three cylindars. I replaced it with a used fpr from a parts car. After words the car ran. I had heard that old fpr's that haven't been used in a while have a chance of going out because the diaphram dries up or cracks. So when I ran into the same problem I figured the fpr went out. The car sat for a few weeks until I had the time and money to work on it.

Now a couple of weeks down the line I deside I am tired of not driving my car, it being summer and all. I start trying to trouble shoot whats going on with it. I started by trying to start the car but it wouldn't fire. So I tried the old unplug one of the fuel injectors, still no start. So I moved on by making sure the fuel pump was running, it runs and the injectors are firing. So I pulled out the spark plugs and cleaned them off. While I still had the number one spark plug out I plugged it back into the wire to check if it had spark, turned it over no spark. And to go on I checked the wires and the distributer both had been replaced in the last year or so and are in good condition. So moving on to the coil I pulled out the not so great haynes manual and it tells you to check the resistance between terminals 1 and 15 with the ohm meter switched to the low setting (2K?) and when I tested it the coil only read 0.000 or 0.001 , the book says it should read .4 or .6 . So I moved on to test the secondary resistance between termanals 1 and 4(the wire that goes to the distributer). When I checked 1 and 4 the reading was 5.7 with the ohm meater set on the high setting 200k, with in spec. And I checked to see if the distributer had power and it does have full battery power.

So that is what I have done to try and figure why my car won't start. I am very limited in funds and don't want to be just throwing money at it. So the question is does it sound like a bad coil or could it be something else. And one more thing when I have the ignition on the number 4 terminal tests at full battery voltage like 16v, does this sound right?

I would be very greatful to get everyones oppinion.

Jason

[Gene Alvarez]

It sounds to me like the coil is bad. To my knowledge there is nothing special about the coil- should not be expensive.

Good luck,

[operationcougar]

i was in the same place as you are a few months ago

DONT BUY A NEW COIL!!!
they are expensive and the guys i have talked to have said "the 944 coil is 10x more reliable than anything else on the car, check the computer first, or even the alarm 'if equiped' first"

email me and i can tell you how to go by doing either, just to lengthy to fill the boards

ian-- iandennis_84@hotmail.com

[924Sracer]

Ok so replace the coil or don't replace it?

So anyways has anyone tested a coil and gotten a reading so low between the 1 and 15 terminals? And if so did the coil still work? I wish I had one to install just to see.

Jason

[924Sracer]

so the coil sends spark to the distributer when the computer grounds the ground wire from the coil? And if I have the key in the on position what would my volt meter read at terminal 15? And is the reading from terminal 15 pertinant in finding out why I have no spark?

If FR Wilks is out there or So Cal I could use a little bit of an explination of how this works, you guys have to know.

Jason

[SoCal Driver]

Key on you should have 12 volts at the black wire at the coil. Also 12 volts at the connectors to the injectors.

If no voltage to the coil then it's the ignition switch.

If voltage to the coil but not at the injectors it's the DME relay.

If voltage at the coil and the injectors check the sensors connectors, resistance, output and clearence from the flywheel.

If the sensors check out it could be a broken wire in the loom or a bad solder joint in the DME.

Other sensors need to be check too.

[hughett]

SoCal Driver knows what he's talking about. Also, you might change fuse #7 (I think it might be 7, I'm going from memory). You'd kick yourself it that's the problem. Also, I pull and reseat all my fuses and relays about once a year, especially if you get a lot of moisture in your area...and check the grounds (there's about a dozen different grounds). I replaced over $500 in parts (including coil) and the no-start problem was a poor connection a really hard to find spot. At least I have new parts throughout the electrical system now.

Harvey

[stampedetrail]

Originally posted by hughett
SoCal Driver knows what he's talking about. Also, you might change fuse #7 (I think it might be 7, I'm going from memory). You'd kick yourself it that's the problem. Also, I pull and reseat all my fuses and relays about once a year, especially if you get a lot of moisture in your area...and check the grounds (there's about a dozen different grounds). I replaced over $500 in parts (including coil) and the no-start problem was a poor connection a really hard to find spot. At least I have new parts throughout the electrical system now.

Harvey

just out of curiosity, what spot was that?

[hughett]

I had a small water leak from the battery box area that apparently created a small amount of corrosion on a connector either on the DME box connection or a connection to the alarm. I cleaned them all and it cranked right up...after spending a wad of money replacing stuff.

Harvey