remove early clock?

Eldorado · 11-18-2005, 12:07 AM

need to replace the bulb in my clock... how would i get in there? I removed the two screws on the silver face plate, but the unit doesn't really pull out when i do that.... any tips?

AA_Ezra · 11-18-2005, 12:24 AM

The whole top half of the Center consol has to come of. I've done is before. Actualy removed all the dash and all. I'll check tomrow morning and let you know exactly what to do b.c im not totaly sure right now.. i think you just have to give it a pretty good tugg to get it off. that or remove teh heater controlls and remove the 3 knobs pluss the blower fan knob they all just pull right out. ( 2 screwed under the heater controll plate you must take off ) after you take that of i think there is another 2.. But it may only be the 2 you just took off it, the top pice kinda snaps out then snaps back inn. I'll double check let you know tomorow. If you every need to take whole dash apart lemem know i took pics of the whole thing lol

Eldorado · 11-18-2005, 10:46 AM

ok.. so remove the bottom plate with the fan controls and sliders.... there are two hidden screws in there along the top edge?

then just remove the two screws that i did previously?

seems easy enough.... lemmek now for sure though - not going out today... too damn cold!

AA_Ezra · 11-18-2005, 11:20 AM

one sec.. i'll take pictures for you

AA_Ezra · 11-18-2005, 12:03 PM

Here you Go bro

Eldorado · 11-18-2005, 12:05 PM

ahhh the first pic is done - i dont have those screws.. lol

it's the screws in the second pic i didn't find.. thanks!

straight forward from there... thanks a ton

AA_Ezra · 11-18-2005, 12:09 PM

No problemo

Britwrench · 11-18-2005, 12:48 PM

Excellent pictures and instructions...ever thought of writing service repair manuals?... Porsche need help!!

AA_Ezra · 11-18-2005, 02:13 PM

Thnk's for the comment, Writing service repair manuals sound like it would be fun.. But i wouldent know where to start and who to talk to. And i'de only be able to take pictures and instructions for 944's cuz that's all i can aford ( 911 10k used ) :P Thank's for the boost in confidence heh
J

Britwrench · 11-18-2005, 02:17 PM

J,

Life is more about what you can do rather than what you know. Do you think that the people who currently write workshop manuals know about each and every car? If workshop manuals were written in terms that could be understood, then many people in the automotive business would be happy.

AA_Ezra · 11-18-2005, 02:27 PM

True. Maybe i'll Take some photos of the work im guna have to do to my car Trans. Clutch Engine swap, Rebuild of old engine ( jeebus help me ) And make a scrap book n take notes. Publish or just setup a website on geocities and post instructions on how i did it :P. And hayens is confusing on some part's i agree lol
who knows might make enuff money to buy a 968 or 911 and write about it

one944 · 07-11-2009, 10:08 AM

I have picked up this old thread because I have a new question about accessing an early clock. The clock in my '84 doesn't work but it is apparently the culprit in a parasitic current drain. I don't care to replace the clock but would like to disconnect it. Is there any access to the clock other than removing the upper section of the console? As a possible example, with the glove box removed, is there an opening where the clock could be reached? Any other practical access routes?

ballysdad · 07-11-2009, 11:21 AM

No the top half needs to come out it only takes about 10 minutes tops. Getting it back on with the angled tbs is the trick

AA_Ezra · 07-11-2009, 05:03 PM

Not that I know of... Even stretch Armstrong would have a tough time without taking it off

one944 · 07-12-2009, 10:05 AM

Does the A/C knob have to come off?

AA_Ezra · 07-12-2009, 01:37 PM

Nope its stays all the way it is. you will have to give the top of that console a bit of a tug for it to com out just double check you didi remover all the screws necesary including the ones that are on the side screwing down the carpet. After that there is a little bracked behind the clock that you will be able to see easily and it has a treaded bolt thingy that looks like a pink eraser on the top of a pencil

alantica · 07-12-2009, 02:14 PM

You may want to hold off on disconnecting the clock. It may not be your culprit. At the rear of the cigarette lighter are 3 red wires bound together. 1 ea. to the clock, radio relay & radio relay fuse 7.

This is coming from the wiring schematics out of the Haynes 83 to 89 944 manual. Brown wires out of the clock also go to the Heater Control Assembly Light and Oil Pressure Indicator.

You will be affecting the wiring to the other components if you disconnect the wiring to the clock.

Have you tried pulling fuse 7 to see if that stops the parasitic drain?

.

one944 · 07-13-2009, 07:43 AM

Yes, removal of fuse 7 kills the drain. With the radio unplugged, the drain is the same. The lighter is out of the socket and interior lights turned off. The drain fluctuates. With an analog meter, the needle swings through a range in a regular rhythm of about one second. Seems reasonable to suspect the clock. How sure are you that the clock can't be disconnected independently?

alantica · 07-13-2009, 12:35 PM

one944, I am working off of schematics. I'll give you some links to download. Look at the links and you may understand what I am talking about. If you are not familiar with electronics you can give me a call on the phone. I'll PM the number to you.

First link is http://www.cannell.co.uk/Manuals.htm

You need to download Vol4-electrical.pdf

Go to page 92. You will see a schematic of the wiring diagram.

At the back of the clock you have 1 red wire (+)

At the back of the clock you have 2 gr/bl wires (1 to the heater control assembly light & 1 to the oil pressure indicator)

At the front of the clock you have 2 br wires (-) (1 to the heater control assembly light & 1 to the oil pressure indicator)

If you disconnect the red wire, then disconnect and tie together the 2 gr/bl wires and 2 brown wires, the clock will be out of the loop and isolated.

Or just cut the red wire and leave everything else alone, but that is not taking the clock completely out of the loop.

I do not know what the gr/bl wires are for, that is why I caution against disconnecting the clock. By passing it and keeping the gr/bl & br wires connected will most likely work.

The problem with selecting the clock as the parasitic drain is the + (red) wire feeds other parts. Disconnecting the + (red) wire at the clock will disconnect the clock, but another part may be causing the drain that shares the + (red) wire.

I would think that the needle swinging through a range in a regular rhythm of about one second would be the second hand and the car is built with this as part of the electronic design that is not intended to drain the battery.

one944 · 07-14-2009, 10:25 AM

alantica,

Thanks for the links and suggestions. I looked at the Haynes wiring diagrams. They told me that disconnecting the red wire from the clock would do it. I did that and the drain was reduced a third to a constant 64 mA (no fluctuation), which Clark's Garage says is normal or acceptable. The clock is not working but apparently in a failure mode that drew some current. Less drain would be nice, but at this point I don't know what else on fuse 7 could be causing it.

Now, while I'm there, I want to replace the bulb in the oil gage. I can't seem to get the black plastic bulb holder out. Should it pop out? What bulb does it take?