R-134a Retrofit Port adaptors

AA_Ezra · 06-20-2007, 09:06 PM

I was shoping at my local wally world and i came across a kit that had Fittings to adapt all cars and all years To convert r-12 to R-134a. I purchased the kit and the high side port adaptor is kool but the bottom on a/c has some clearence issue but i think a smaller a/c-alternator belt may take care of that. FYI i have not fully threaded or installed the adaptors. So anyone outhere have expierence with a similar kit and conversion and can offer any advice?

Eldorado · 06-20-2007, 09:27 PM

yea.

dont expect to just put the fittings on, fill with 134, and go. much *should* be done to the a/c system before filling with 134.

AA_Ezra · 06-20-2007, 09:42 PM

Drainign the system and posible a new dryer are probly going to be done. By the way Eldorado since you like the Duracool substitute so much. does it adapt to the old fittings the vehicle has?

Eldorado · 06-21-2007, 12:01 AM

Duracool = canadian - w00t! =P

it does adapt, as far as I know. absolutely no modification needs to be done to your system in order to use it. as long as you have no leaks, and adequate oil.. you're good to go.

many944s · 06-21-2007, 05:00 AM

+1
Both Duracool and Freeze 12 can be added to an existing R-12 system with no changes. If your system is "opened" for any reason (changing compressor, dryer, o-rings) you should pump it down to a vacuum before adding your refrigerant. If the system still has pressure, you can simply add the new refrig.

Why to evacuate system:
Pumping the system down to vacuum for half an hour or so pulls the majority of the "condensible" materials from the system (mostly water vapor from air). If there is air or moisture in the lines, the A/C wont function as well.

I would advise staying away from the R-134a conversion kits. For the system to function well over the lifetime of the car, you should drain ALL of the original Mineral oil from the compressor, change the seals and o-rings, swap out the dryer, and use a good clean PAG oil charge, it costs a little more than the $39.95 box on the shelf that says "R-134 conversion kit, everything you need"

Hope it helps!
-Nick

AA_Ezra · 06-21-2007, 02:53 PM

Yes indeed it does. I need a 90o fitting for the 134 upgrade. That kinda slowed me down not to want to mod it. And there is a duracool manufacture in the U.S. eldorado :P. As far as the leak I think i may have some b.c the radiator for the A/C has like a oily Buildup that i have to degreese. But that maybe from my oil leak on the block. But it maybe the a/c b/c i dont think oil shoots out foward when im driving. Well now that i think about it. it's probly leaking cuz i charged it last season with r-12 and this season.. Very much not blowing cold.. cool to say the least.

NAPA has it you say Eldorado? i'll have to check it out

AA_Ezra · 06-21-2007, 04:11 PM

Ok napa didnt have duracool but they had freez 12. so the next question is.. Low side service port is on the A/C pump and High side service port is at the Top by the Headlamp Correct?

mattdavis11 · 06-21-2007, 06:15 PM

Yes, and you have a bad condensor, or so it sounds.

Eldorado · 06-21-2007, 08:09 PM

fix the leaks, or you're wasting your money.

Zero10 · 06-21-2007, 10:32 PM

Fix the leaks and use a R12 hydrocarbon substitute.
If you need to, pick up a sniffer on EBay or use a flourescent dye to detect the leaks.

Low pressure is on th ebottom, and high pressure is behind the headlght/on the strut tower.
The fittings do just screw right on, most gauge and charging sets use the R134A fittings regardless of whether they are HC12 or R134A, so they are usually worth installing.

mattdavis11 · 06-21-2007, 10:49 PM

If you do change the connector/fitting type, remove the old shrader valve before you put the new fitting on. Didn't see that mentioned above, needs to be done.

Eldorado · 06-21-2007, 11:03 PM

the 134 valves screw on top of the old schrader valves, at least that's my understanding.

AA_Ezra · 06-22-2007, 09:51 AM

Schrader is that the little coper rod that relives the presure like in a bicycle tire looks like this ---||-0 ?

Eldorado · 06-22-2007, 10:22 AM

i believe that's what he's talking about. it's threaded on the outside.

mattdavis11 · 06-22-2007, 06:36 PM

There's no need to have two valves, dump the one on the compressor if you swap fittings.

Zero10 · 06-22-2007, 11:04 PM

If you have a straight-through valve you leave the old valve in, if it's right angle or anything then you need to take out the old valve.

AA_Ezra · 06-29-2007, 09:36 AM

10-4 yes the valve inside the compressor is what i was talking about. And now i'm not so sure i'm going to do the freez 12 thing. My freind who's a mechanic said that it works great for a while but then turns realy stick oily gooey. not sure which word he used exactly but it was around those terms. So now im thinking it over. But then again if it goes bad i could force myself to update the whole a/c system compressor blah blah blah. So i'm not sure what im going to do.... I got very little time off of work and it's getting hot pretty soon .

Eldorado · 06-29-2007, 10:54 AM

funny... *my* mechanic buddy said go ahead and use 'em. lol

go figure...
it's all a matter of opinion, me thinks.

looneybin · 07-19-2007, 01:28 PM

I used an r-134 conversion kit by "interdynamics" on my '86 944
it's available at kragen auto parts & comes with all the needed fittings & replacement oil etc.
no problems to date & A/C blows ice cold
The low side port is on the larger diameter pipe on the drivers side shock tower (not the port next to the pressure switch & drier)