Question reguarding Starting problems and issues????

hermesbooking · 01-22-2008, 04:12 PM

OK, I am kind of at a loss at this time, hoping you guys can help me out. When I first got the car I have had a hard star issue. If it was too hot, it would take a few times, or cooling down to start. Now that is is cool, it is still being a pain, and today it would not start, I had to jump it off to make it home. Through the Clarks and another manual, I limited the hard starts to the DME Temp sensor in the block. Purchased one, due to only being 10.00 and figured that might help my problem, but seams not the case. THe other DME looked origional, so I figured it could use the change anyways. Here is what is going on:

1. Try to start, turn on key amps show 12, when I get the car started goes to just below 14 and stays with no fluxuation! Steady when the car is running.

2. Got home removed today, left the car running and disconnected the battery, and there was no flux, jump anything. The car did not miss a beat, everything was running fine.

3. Noticed that when I am trying to start it, the amp guage is at 12 to start out with, and the needle bounces abunch and the low light will flicker untill it gets started, if if does. seams like the started is pulling WAY too many amps??

4. My neighbor had one of those battery checkers that you can test the battery by putting a load on it, to see if it is good. Well I thought and was hoping the battery was shot, NOT! The battery did not hardly do anything! That tells me the battery is good?

5. My question is this should be a problem between the battery and the starter? Could be some corrosion in the cables connecting to the starter?I am going to check the starter at a local parts store tomorrow to see if there is something wron, but if the starter checks good, then where should I go? I was thinking that the voltage regulator might be messed up, is this a possiblilty? I am kind of lost at this point, going to hitch a ride to work tomorrow, and try to fix tomorrow evening. Any info will help out a bunch! Thanks Mike

hpservertech · 01-22-2008, 04:22 PM

Ok, few things here.

When it's trying to start is it cranking but just not starting?
Is it a slow crank or sounds like a normal crank over?

If it's slow cranking like it doesn't have enough power then it could be the starter. take it off, along with the batter and have autozone test them both.

If both test good you could have bad cables. Very good possibility here with 20+ year old car, which is why I'm having new ones made for me.

hermesbooking · 01-22-2008, 04:27 PM

When trying to start, starts fast and normal sounding. starts to slow down after awhile when it been trying to be started. Going to check the starter tomorrow. Suggestions if the starter and battery check good, next cables, then what? Thanks

hpservertech · 01-22-2008, 04:46 PM

have you replaced the DME relay with a known good one yet? Or made sure your fuel pump is running?

If it's not fuel related, it's electrical. Get a cheap spark plug tester and see if your getting spark on each plug.

it could also be injector wires/connectors, which a noid tester can help with.

Razorback1980 · Razorback1980's Garage

I think it's more cable or electrical related. Starter slowing down can only mean one of two things....either the engine is getting harder to turn or the starter isn't getting the right power. You need to check the voltage at the large terminal at the starter...should match the voltage at the battery. If that checks good, then check the voltage on the small terminal with the key turned to the start position. Use safety measures here like clip a wire on the small wire and run out from under the car to test the voltage with. In other words, don't be under the car when it's being cranked. If that checks the same as the battery, then put an ohm meter lead on the negative post of the battery and the other lead on a metal part of the engine...ohms should read 0 or very close. This will check the ground connection.

Lapponia · 01-23-2008, 02:29 AM

I dont know how the fuse and relay box look like in a -86. But have a look at the fuel pump fuse and check if it is blown or corroded. Fix that. And do have a look at the fuel pump con-nections as well. Might be a surprise as it did to me. Made the difference of start or not start.
Cranking was good thogh.

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Lapponia 1984 944 na

hermesbooking · 01-23-2008, 03:19 AM

I have real goo dfuel pressure, had to take the rail off to fix an O-Ring leak on one of the injectors yesterday, I have fuel and spark, just seams that I either don't have enough power at the starter, or it is drawing too much. I will find out today. I will let everyone know about the testing at the starter on the car. Hopefully that is the prob!

rmcdonnell · 01-23-2008, 04:27 AM

Check your battery ground strap, try replacing it with a known good one even if it looks sound and see if that makes any difference.

If the starter is quite fast turning over initially, maybe check your compression?

best of luck
Russell

924Sman · 01-23-2008, 05:31 AM

At the advice of fellow racers I added a second ground strap from the post near the battery to the bellhousing and it did help. My issue was different but thought to mention it as it does not hurt any to have a secondary.

The cool down and warm up issue has me considering the fuel regulator. Reason is I had a similiar issue and replaced the FPR. The FPR was bad and not allowing the fuel to return to the tank. Once it cooled down it would start, meaning the time passed enabled the fuel to return by gravity/pressure. When hot it would in affect, flood the rail causing a hard start and fuel odor. Worked for me, perhaps yours too.

Dal

hermesbooking · 01-23-2008, 03:03 PM

Got a current update of the starting issue. Well I had the starter checked today at a local parts store and the starter was Good! They said is read close to max of what Porsche requires. So did a few other things with my dad. He said to take off teh Distributor cap, OK well never thought that the cap or rotor would be an issue due to running and starting with no problem. WELL!!!! The ignition rotor was burnt in half! Yes, the larger moon shaped end was ther and the smaller end was gone! Well was able to get the rotor here today, started up, but had to sut off due to the rotor gasket being almost gone, so the rotor was hitting the cap. Went and ordered the cap, will be here friday with the gasket, so when I get all that done, I will give the final. Everything from the battery to the starter checked good as well. Cleaned real good then sprayed with "Corrosion X" That is the best stuff we use in aviation on the planes and you can use it on anything and as a lube for bolts. I bough a can and it has worked, also helps to kill the corrosion and stays on for a long time. Thanks for the help, Mike