Intalling rear main seal troubles - Page 2

SuperXRAY · 06-16-2009, 07:51 PM

I would replace it, and I would buy all new bolts. The chance of another one snapping is probably high when a load is put on them. Even though the load doesn't theoretically stress the bolt, I wouldn't risk it.

John_AZ · 06-16-2009, 08:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shogunther

I finally got the RMS seated. Now another problem.....I was torquing the flywheel bolts and one snapped. Do I need to remove this or will it be ok with 8 bolts? What a PITA this has been!

I think you already know my answer. The flywheel bolts stretch when torqued to 65 foot pounds-final torque. Any bolt that stretches should be replaced and not reused. You have just proved my point.

Purchase 9 new FW bolts. Remove the 8 installed and hope you can get a vice grips on the broken bolt. If not, you have to drill and use an easy out or whatever you can. If you snapped one bolt, and I guess they were the old bolts on the flywheel and not new bolts you just purchased, the others are also in bad shape and have been used more than once. If another snaps off a head when you engage the clutch all hell will break loose.

GL
John_AZ

shogunther · 06-16-2009, 10:31 PM

john,

These were brand new bolts that I installed. Can the other 8 be reused? They were torqued to spec. Already

John_AZ · 08:44 PM

Hi shogunther,
Sorry I thought the FW bolts were used, I have changed over 10 various Porsche clutches and a few domestics and have never broken a new FW bolt.

Do you have a daily parts truck from Pelican arriving every day? You're not getting your seals and FW bolts from "Honest Al's new and used Porsche Parts" in Indio are you???

The bolts you bought new, these were Porsche spec and not from Ace hardware right? Has your torque wrench been calibrated in the last 10 years? I usually strip the serrated flutes on the triple square/cheesehead tool or the bolt before I reach 65 foot pounds.

You may be safe to reuse the other 8 bolts. There is a ongoing debate on whether you can reuse. 50/50. Its your call

Since you are near to putting on the bell housing, I will offer another suggestion.
Cut out the reference sensor area of the bell housing. You will be able to set the reference sensor gap before you put on the bell housing. Makes it real easy, especially if you have to go back in in the future.

And if you want to replace the reference sensor bracket pan head bolts with regular metric bolts. This tip is from George at www.944ecology. You can then use a 1/4 wrench in the future.

GL
John_AZ

Eric_Oz_S2 · Eric_Oz_S2's Garage

Wow - I'm just about to change my pilot and thrust bearings on my clutch. I thought I would do the RMS while I'm in there - like you do.

Good tip about getting new bolts - I'll do that. I never realised the RMS was such a pain to install. I thought I read somewhere that the Kaco OEM seals were prone to early failure. Anyone know if there is any basis to this?

shogunther · 06-17-2009, 06:11 AM

John,
I bought the RMS from Carquest, it is a Victor Reinz seal. I bought the bolts from 944online or Pelicans...I don't remember. Anyways, I would like to thank everyone for being so supportive and encouraging. John, you have been awesome...thanks for everything

John_AZ · 06-17-2009, 08:17 AM

shogunther,
Glad to help.

I want you to have fewer problems for the remaining steps.

You have new pilot bearing, fork rod bearings, new TO guide tube, a new TO or I have repacked my TO-once. Put proper grease where ever WSM says.

I am sure you will use some type of clutch alignment tool. When you get to the point of shoving the torque tube in--it still will be difficult to align.
The trick is to put the clutch slave in-----
BUT NEVER press the clutch petal if it is out. You will need to get a $25 rebuild kit because you ruined the inside seal when the slave rod overextends.

OK you have the slave bolted in. Either use a stick to press the petal or your SO. This releases the PP against the disc and the TT shaft will slide right in.

If you need to bleed the clutch for some reason, I have used this method and with good results. You could also just buy a Motive Power Bleeder for $60...

If you do use this method, there can be NO pressure on the clutch petal to clutch MC. I disconnected the clutch MC shaft at the clutch petal. It needs to be reset anyway per the Haynes manual. If there is any pressure on the Clutch MC the fluid will not flow to the brake reservoir.

Back at the transaxle,

DO NOT over torque the shaft bolt with the security wire. If you break off this head it is at least 4 to 6 hours to drill out.

Have a good set of metric hex to torque the shaft coupler. Do not strip the bolt heads.

There is more but keep on posting.

GL
John_AZ

shogunther · 06-17-2009, 08:30 AM

I was looking at the bolt that snapped and it looks like it snapped flush with the crank end. Is it ok to try and drill it with the flywheel still attached? Either way I don't have any room for the drill...the torque tube is in the way...I think I need to remove the torque tube so that I have more room. Before I do so, are there any other suggestions?

shogunther · 06-17-2009, 08:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by John_AZ

shogunther,
Glad to help.

I want you to have fewer problems for the remaining steps.

You have new pilot bearing, fork rod bearings, new TO guide tube, a new TO or I have repacked my TO-once. Put proper grease where ever WSM says.

I am sure you will use some type of clutch alignment tool. When you get to the point of shoving the torque tube in--it still will be difficult to align.
The trick is to put the clutch slave in-----
BUT NEVER press the clutch petal if it is out. You will need to get a $25 rebuild kit because you ruined the inside seal when the slave rod overextends.

OK you have the slave bolted in. Either use a stick to press the petal or your SO. This releases the PP against the disc and the TT shaft will slide right in.

If you need to bleed the clutch for some reason, I have used this method and with good results. You could also just buy a Motive Power Bleeder for $60...

If you do use this method, there can be NO pressure on the clutch petal to clutch MC. I disconnected the clutch MC shaft at the clutch petal. It needs to be reset anyway per the Haynes manual. If there is any pressure on the Clutch MC the fluid will not flow to the brake reservoir.

Back at the transaxle,

DO NOT over torque the shaft bolt with the security wire. If you break off this head it is at least 4 to 6 hours to drill out.

Have a good set of metric hex to torque the shaft coupler. Do not strip the bolt heads.

There is more but keep on posting.

GL
John_AZ

Is the TO guide tube essential? I bought everything new except for the guide tube....I thought the old one was reusable??

shogunther · 06-17-2009, 09:32 AM

Well that wasn't bad at all. I got the screw out no problems

now i just have to wait for the bolt to be shipped to me

Razorback1980 · Razorback1980's Garage

Great work! ...kinda risky with that small of an ez-out but I'm glad it worked. If you ever break an ez-out, you'll know what I mean when you try to get it out. Not that I have ever done that or anything.

John_AZ · 06-17-2009, 12:45 PM

The TO guide tube.
Take the old one out, wash in brake cleaner or better.
Check the crimp for cracks under the base and the weld on top.

and check for wear on the sides where the TO slides.

If you buy, stick with the INA/Porsche style-the dirty one in the picture.

I bought an off brand cause it was sooooooo cheap and did not use it-top pic left
$2.57. Two Dollars, 57 cents. It did not have the strong crimp at the bottom like the one on the right.

If yours looks unblemished, again your choice.

GL
John_AZ