New cap install problem

[p-talk]

OK, so it was time for a little tune-up action on the 944, the cap and rotor looked pretty bad and she had started to run poorly. I ordered a Bosch cap and rotor, and Bosch plugs (whatever the single-electrode ones are everyone seems to recommend). Had some problems with the rotor screw, but I did get that fixed - see below.

When I try to install the new cap, the bottom screw/90-degree clip just won't go in. And it looks like it's not seating properly, with a little gap at the bottom, like maybe the 90-degree pin is hitting? I've tried several times, and it just won't go on.

Just as a test, I tried putting on the old cap - 60 seconds! So I know my technique is good (both pins pointed left, 90-degree counter-clockwise twist on the top screw, 270-degree twist on the bottom screw). We all know how hard it is to get to the bottom screw, but I've tried both my normal and large Craftsmen flat-blade screwdrivers with no success.

Any BTDT help? Thanks guys!

P.S. I wouldn't have gotten the new rotor on if it wasn't for searching on this forum. The old screw was stripped, but I was able to cleanly drill it out w/out messing up the threads, and got two new screws at Home Depot for 50 cents! (many thanks to those that posted this solution!)

[Crazy Horse]

p-talk,

I have had recent experience with the exact same problem.

I found that if you place a large flat blade screwdriver head and adaptor on a 3/8" ratchet, you can push on the back of the ratchet while turning. I needed the extra force to "push in" the screw far enough. The clearance there on my car makes it especially hard to deal with.

[AKCJ]

I guess either the new cap is somehow different /wrong, or you're just not holding your mouth right. I usually struggle with this and have had the best luck studying the arrangement of the notches that the hooks rest first - even going so far as to make a hand sketch of what has to happen (direction and amount of twist).

There is a writeup on this on Clarks also.

I usually use a shorty screwdriver that fits in between the cap and the radiator.

One more thing - isn't there supposed to be a paper gasket under the cap?

GL

[p-talk]

That's a real good idea, I'll try that when I get home from work tonight. I'll keep everyone posted . .

Originally Posted by Crazy Horse

p-talk,

I have had recent experience with the exact same problem.

I found that if you place a large flat blade screwdriver head and adaptor on a 3/8" ratchet, you can push on the back of the ratchet while turning. I needed the extra force to "push in" the screw far enough. The clearance there on my car makes it especially hard to deal with.

[p-talk]

I went through Clark's Garage procedure religiously before I started, and like I said, I can get the old cap on in 60 seconds! And believe me, I tried holding my mouth in all kinds of ways (F*&K, $H*T, D&*M - I tried them all! )

Oh, and the cap is the correct part, I double-checked the part number today against several sources.

I'm gonna try the 'Crazy Horse' "socket-to-flat blade" trick tonight and I'll report back.

* EDIT *
Paper gasket is still intact.

Originally Posted by AKCJ

I guess either the new cap is somehow different /wrong, or you're just not holding your mouth right. I usually struggle with this and have had the best luck studying the arrangement of the notches that the hooks rest first - even going so far as to make a hand sketch of what has to happen (direction and amount of twist).

There is a writeup on this on Clarks also.

I usually use a shorty screwdriver that fits in between the cap and the radiator.

One more thing - isn't there supposed to be a paper gasket under the cap?

GL

[Slam]

Call me crazy, but it may even be easier to remove the front timing cover and then take off the front aluminum cam sprocket housing with the cap attached. I've done it this way every time. Then you can get to those enjoyable little cap fasteners from behind...and inspect your belts while you're at it.

[Crazy Horse]

My cap has a flat plastic dust shield between it and the cam gear housing - preventing removal without taking off the rotor...

[HondaDustR]

^ +1. If you still have the dust shield, it won't come off. Funny thing is the first time I replaced my cap I had the exact same problem. No amount of pushing was going to do it. I decided I didn't want to have to go through that every time I had to take it off even if I could manage to force it on somehow, so I filed the tab behind the cover just a hair and it fit fine.

[John_AZ]

Originally Posted by Crazy Horse

p-talk,

I have had recent experience with the exact same problem.

I found that if you place a large flat blade screwdriver head and adaptor on a 3/8" ratchet, you can push on the back of the ratchet while turning. I needed the extra force to "push in" the screw far enough. The clearance there on my car makes it especially hard to deal with.

Crazy Horse has the solution. I purchased 2 new distributer caps and both needed an extra push with the screwdriver to go over the rear cam cover cap lobe. It was very tight-----but it fit. The second remove and replace went real smooth.

I do like the tight fit of the cap. My old caps were feeling sloppy and I was worried the rotor may not be aligned correctly. Now it has a solid tight fit.

GL
John_AZ

[p-talk]

Thanks 'Crazy Horse'! 60 seconds later I had it on and running!

[Ga 951]

I've used the same technique with a 1/4 in socket and a screwdriver bit from the cordless drill.
Small rachet, but allows you to push the screw in enough to engage. Works every time!! ;D