Installing the Head/Timing Belt Issues.
 

The good news is that the head wasn't warped or leaking. So now it's time to put it back on.

The bad news is that the head was removed by just unbolting everything and slipping the timing belt off the cam. Now, when the time has come to reinstall everything, nothing is where it should be.

Should I take the rest of the belt cover off, remove all the belts, find top dead center, and reinstall? How should I approach this?

Yes, and inspect water pump and all front of engine seals while you're at it.

Okay, how would I go about finding TDC with the top half of the engine off? Also, when installing the cam, how would I know where to positon the gear?


I just got the head back so tonight I'll start tearing into the front of the motor. A WRX race car has been stealing most of my time...

Turn the motor by hand until the front piston is at the top of it's travel, then look in the bellhousing window (driver's side of motor) for the 'OT' mark on the flywheel. It is a bit of a ***** to see, so I like to double check it by looking at the hole in the bottom of the bellhousing. . .there is a notch in the flywheel that should be centered in that hole.

After you have it set, install your flywheel lock (ahem) to keep it from moving, and to assist you in getting your crank pulley off if needed.

The cam gear is keyed, so it only goes on one way. The cam bolt has been updated by Porsche and should also be replaced.

Flem? ;)

Okay, sounds like a normal belt job. I'll do some more diagram studying as well.

Im used to flat engines, this slant-four stuff bothers me.

Yeah, set crank to TDC, lock, assemble cam housing complete with front bearing housing and cam gear preinstalled (leave rear cap off until the end...it gets in the way), set cam to TDC mark on distributor housing and cam gear, and bolt it down. The cam position will cause some resistance to fully seating since it will need to push some valves part open, so work slowly, carefully, and evenly when cranking all 15 bolts home. Make sure it doesn't get hung up on the two locating pins in opposite corners. Then torque to spec (15 ft.lb. IIRC, but you might want to double check).

Do yourself or someone else a favor and do not crank the bolt access plugs to 30 ft.lb. like it says in the manual! They don't need to be that tight and by the time they set in from being torqued that hard for any length of time it does nothing but break tools and skin knuckles removing them (ask me how I know), and possibly strip out less than perfect condition threads when torquing them. Just some anti sieze and tighten them snugly.

Do you have a reference for TDC on the cam?

And good call with the caps. They're just aluminum and prevent oil from flowing out. I'll surely notice if they're too loose. Hope your knuckles are healed!

Highlighted here. There's two notches that line up. This isn't actually my motor...:eek:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1259700078.jpg

Awesome. I thought that was what they're for.

Im having a little trouble getting the cam gear off the cam and assembly. It seems that nut is ON there. Suggestions?

why are u taking the cam gear off? i thought u were just reinstalling the cambox and head back on.

I was going to disassemble it to clean/inspect it.
Leave it alone, instead?

I would leave it unless the seal is leaking.

If it's not leaking you could just leave it, or you could replace the seals now while it's easy so it doesn't leak anytime soon. Your call. Be aware that there are two different shaft seals and shaft flanges depending on what number the motor is.

The big nut looking thing is simply a retaining collar keyed to the shaft and is used to hold the gear while removing or installing the 12 point bolt inside. With the bolt removed, everything pulls straight off. You might need a puller to crack it free, or you could pull on it while hitting the shaft with a plastic hammer to break it loose. It's not press fitted or anything, but it can get stuck after being cranked together for awhile. Be sure to replace the bolt since it supposedly stretches when torqued.

Okay, Itll stay then.
I threw the head in the dishwasher last night and ran it for about three heavy cycles. It should be ready for duty now.
http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/f...yMDEtMjIzM.jpg

I also pulled the fan assembly and radiator out, just to give me more room for everything, and today I plan on ordering parts.
I plan on a OEM thickness headgasket because the machine shop said they didn't take off enough to make the head out of spec.
Also, I'm going to need to buy belts, rollers, and seals.

There's got to be a package deal floating around the web somewhere, right?
http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/shopcart/944M/POR_944M_ENGman_pg5.htm#item23
^ Theres several here, but none I see for a 1984 944

The job is now at a standstill until the parts I will order today arrive. Anything I should be doing in the meantime, besides working on a Japanese car and drinking?

Flow test your rad.

I threw all my parts in the dishwasher as well (wife was gone :) )

It worked very well.

This seems like everything I would need, sold as a bundle. However, there is no listing of what the kit comes with. Also, what is it asking serial number info for?

that item seems like head gasket, front water neck gasket, cam box gasket, prob rear cam box gasket also. maybe also heater water neck gasket.

Yep, that's got every seal and gasket you'll need from the head gasket on upwards. It's even got the Y-pipe to exhaust header gaskets, or at least my kit did. How many miles on the head? Maybe you should throw in new valve stem seals since they harden with age and leak more and more oil.

64k.
An old lady owned it. Then I just got it to start autocrossing this year, but quickly realized its a little outdated and...well,....slow.

So I'm giving it to my girlfriend, who loves the damn thing, and campaigning a Subaru for track duty.

I'll order that kit then. Does it come with new rollers and everything, too? or shouldn't I bother, and just stick to belts/gaskets?