Clutch replacement?

[924Sman]

Is it necessary to replace the pressure plate also when replacing the disc or is not a reuseable component?.....I also see the fork is no longer available, is it needed to be replaced also or can the original be reused?....tia!

[wild man]

The PP does get weaker from usage, heat, and age. If it a turbo, or an S/S2, I definitely wouldn't do the job without replacing it. If it a regular 944/924S, you can probably get away with it. But I wouldn't go more than 2 disc on 1 PP though. If fork/shaft look good, just need to replace needle bearing, unless it look (and feel) REAL good. Just make sure you grease the U-no-wut out of all that stuff. Pack extra into TOB (and PB hole), also. Don't overdo it on Pb hole though, or it may prevent parts from mating together fully, and/or push PB partially out due to hydraulic pressure.

[John_AZ]

Resurface the FW for your new disc.
Replace the RMS-search for options

Inspect the PP. Good for 2X use if you did not ride the clutch and ruin the diaphram fingers.
Good Stuff:
http://media.centerforce.com/DiagGuide/DiagnosticGuide04DL.pdf

Clutch fork. There is probably a groove on the fingers. Smooth high portion flat

Clutch fork rod. The needle bearings wear grooves in the fork rod. If not deep, polish with 400/600 grit paper. Just to remove the surface peaks. If deep replace.

New FW bolts. PP bolts-your call, I would do it.

Reference (pulse) sensor bracket. If you are lucky enough to remove the reference sensors, remove the bracket and change the 6mm pan head bolts to 13mm standard bolts for future ease of adjustment. Use anti seize on bolts and bracket pivot.

TOB-reuse? your call. It can be reused once and can be repacked.

Schumi did an economy rebuild:
Clutch job starts today
My clutch job, in pictures:
Clutch job done, my final thoughts/tips/stats

GL
John_AZ

[924Sman]

I do live by the mantra...do it while in there....so I would replace all components anyway but I was curious about the PP as I am not that educated on clutch operation theory..... RMS???.....I am not fully sold my clutch is bad but in the recent days I have had some issues getting into 1st/2nd until it warms up then all seems to go smoothly, that said reverse has always been a bugger to get into. I know gear lube is not the issue though.

I do think I have a right side motor mount bad and lately I have a lot of vibration at idle and wonder if the engine has dropped a bit causing a TT/shift linkage misalignment?

IIRC I can install a clutch kit for a 951 on a 924S, if so would you suggest doing that or just replace with a OEM kit for the 924S?....I will have to check my records but I recall the last kit put on was a Turbo clutch.

Thanks for the CF website/info, great write up indeed!!!

[krystar]

RMS = rear main seal.

there should be no misalignment as the torque tube is bolted to the clutch housing which is bolted to the block.

i thought when we did the cheap clutch discovery thread that the turbo clutches were different than NA ones....i'll have to go back and check on that thread

[924Sman]

Well my thought was if the engine drops so goes the rest of the drivetrain as you mention it is all conected together. AHHH yes rear seal, must get a coffee with a higher caffeine content!:0....thnx!

[Cocacolakidd]

Turbo clutch plates are larger in diameter along with the flywheel, pressure plate and starter ring gear. To replace to a turbo clutch you also need a Turbo Bell-housing to align correctly the starter motor. If you do decide to replace with a Turbo Clutch assembly also replace the Flywheel to Crank Shaft Socket head Bolts as they are not reusable (Porsche WSM).

[John_AZ]

Originally Posted by 924Sman

I do live by the mantra...do it while in there....so I would replace all components anyway but I was curious about the PP as I am not that educated on clutch operation theory..... RMS???.
RMS==rear main seal
....I am not fully sold my clutch is bad but in the recent days I have had some issues getting into 1st/2nd until it warms up then all seems to go smoothly, that said reverse has always been a bugger to get into. I know gear lube is not the issue though.

Do you use a synthetic or conventional gear lube and what brand?

I do think I have a right side motor mount bad and lately I have a lot of vibration at idle and wonder if the engine has dropped a bit causing a TT/shift linkage misalignment?
Read Clarks for inspection of MM (motor mount) A bad MM will cause vibration at idle but seldom shifting problems. Aftermarket MMs will last 2 years ($45 up each). OEM will last years and years. $140 up each.

IIRC I can install a clutch kit for a 951 on a 924S, if so would you suggest doing that or just replace with a OEM kit for the 924S?....I will have to check my records but I recall the last kit put on was a Turbo clutch.

If you were able to install a 951 turbo clutch which is a 240mm clutch disc -----------into a 924S/944 that is a 225mm clutch disc -----What magic did you use to alter the bell housing and starter ring?

Thanks for the CF website/info, great write up indeed!!!

I am not familiar with the term wild man used Pb hole? I think it means "pinion bearing". I will have to remember next time.

Difficult shifting:
Check the shift rod to linkage security bolt at the transaxle for tightness. Do not over torque!
Check the slop play in the shift lever and the "E"clip. Many DIY repairs.
Hard shifting could be caused by rubber chunks in the PP. If you have a spring disc this does not apply.
Go to Clarks again and see if the transaxle linkage is aligned correctly. He has a good picture.
You could drain the transaxle and check for silver slivers of gears. Maybe the R&P (rack and pinion) is bad or your syncros.

Never use a gear oil that will eat yellow metal transaxle syncros. IE 924S/944 syncros.

[924Sman]

Originally Posted by John_AZ

I am not familiar with the term wild man used Pb hole? I think it means "pinion bearing". I will have to remember next time.

Difficult shifting:
Check the shift rod to linkage security bolt at the transaxle for tightness. Do not over torque!
Check the slop play in the shift lever and the "E"clip. Many DIY repairs.
Hard shifting could be caused by rubber chunks in the PP. If you have a spring disc this does not apply.
Go to Clarks again and see if the transaxle linkage is aligned correctly. He has a good picture.
You could drain the transaxle and check for silver slivers of gears. Maybe the R&P (rack and pinion) is bad or your syncros.

Never use a gear oil that will eat yellow metal transaxle syncros. IE 924S/944 syncros.

Redline Synthetic 90W\ Spring center\ I do have a 944 Racing short shifter, could be a loose conection at the gearbox end since I have not touched since install....I will have a look at the linkage. I do fear a bad syncro but never have misshifted or abused the gearbox.....but that is still no guarantee, but it does downshift smooth so my focus will be in the cabin shift lever area first.

I bet I am thinking 951 waterpump/MM's, not clutch....happens to a wandering mind ya know.

PB....Yep I read that as the pinion bearing too but the RMS had me screaming " OH NO another part!!?"

Thanx!!

[bazar01]

Originally Posted by John_AZ

I am not familiar with the term wild man used Pb hole? I think it means "pinion bearing". I will have to remember next time.

John, the wild man got you this time. The only thing I can think of with a "PB" acronym in a clutch job probably meant "pilot bearing" hole in the crankshaft.

[John_AZ]

Originally Posted by bazar01

John, the wild man got you this time. The only thing I can think of with a "PB" acronym in a clutch job probably meant "pilot bearing" hole in the crankshaft.

Thanks bazar01,

My brain froze on rack & pinion and pilot bearing was what I meant to post.
Actually,
I thought it meant PB Blaster but I couldn't figure out how he meant to use it.

Yup, wild man caught me

[DTW_porsche]

bump

[Mark944na86]

Originally Posted by John_AZ

Resurface the FW for your new disc.
Replace the RMS-search for options

Inspect the PP. Good for 2X use if you did not ride the clutch and ruin the diaphram fingers.
Good Stuff:
http://media.centerforce.com/DiagGuide/DiagnosticGuide04DL.pdf

Clutch fork. There is probably a groove on the fingers. Smooth high portion flat

Clutch fork rod. The needle bearings wear grooves in the fork rod. If not deep, polish with 400/600 grit paper. Just to remove the surface peaks. If deep replace.

New FW bolts. PP bolts-your call, I would do it.

Reference (pulse) sensor bracket. If you are lucky enough to remove the reference sensors, remove the bracket and change the 6mm pan head bolts to 13mm standard bolts for future ease of adjustment. Use anti seize on bolts and bracket pivot.

TOB-reuse? your call. It can be reused once and can be repacked.

Schumi did an economy rebuild:
Clutch job starts today
My clutch job, in pictures:
Clutch job done, my final thoughts/tips/stats

GL
John_AZ

I've just got the clutch out of my S2 -- rubber center failure, still about half the surface material on the clutch disk left.

The PP and flywheel look very good (smooth and flat) -- the TOB feels and sounds good too.

Due to some problems in ordering, my clutch kit has not shipped yet, and I've been thinking about scaling back the order to just the disk instead of the full 3-piece kit, repacking the TOB and reusing the PP.

I've got a bunch of other parts arriving that have already been shipped:

Flywheel/PP bolts
Guide tube
Pilot bearing
Fork needle bearings and shaft
RMS

So I'll be replacing all these parts since I've got them now. These are all in the Paragon "clutch accessories kit".

So putting in a new Sachs spring disk, using the old PP and repacking the TOB -- what do you think? By reusing the the PP and repacking the TOB, I save over $400 in parts (including shipping the heavy PP to Australia... a disk by itself is much lighter and therefore cheaper to ship.)

I don't mind spending money where it is needed, but I'd rather not spend it if it's really not required.

What is the procedure for replacking a TOB bearing? Any different to packing any other bearing (I assume you use moly grease)?

Thanks for your advice.

BTW, the PP bolts on my S2 were 6mm hex socket head bolts, rather than the 8mm triple square "cheesehead" that I was expectng from the write-ups I've been reading. Did these change at some stage? If I get cheeseheads in my "accessories kit", should I use these or reuse the old ones?

-Mark

[John_AZ]

Originally Posted by Mark944na86

What is the procedure for replacking a TOB bearing? Any different to packing any other bearing (I assume you use moly grease)?-Mark

Mark,
I put it on post 26

I got to my clutch!!! Look at this mess! PICS

GL
John_AZ

[John_AZ]

Another TO TIP:
See post 18

How to remove throw-out bearing retaining ring?