Help!

[rrwebster]

I bought a 1983 Porsche 944 the other day... (my first Porsche experience) the PO said it needed a new MAFS sensor. I ordered one, got it yesterday, put it on it started right up, drove it around, put some Lucas Fuel injector cleaner in. put around 50 miles on it, filled the tank with premium gas.

In all with the exception of it seemed to be running very rich it ran well... really well. has a few other problems, windows won't work. the wipers never stop pulsing, I've no clue what the buttons on the console are for, etc...

I have a service manual coming...

here's the problem...

Started it this morning, barely was able to move it 10 feet and now it won't start enough to move it at all. Extremely rich while I was able to move it the few feet. Noticed on the MAFS that the numbers are a little different.

old: 0 208 202 028
new: 0 208 202 064

but why did it run yesterday but not today?

the only things that are different is the temperature. yesterday 82 this morning 58

and I replaced the number 10 and 11 fuses.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Robert

[mattdavis11]

I don't know much about the fuel\air stuff, but the window switches probably just need to be cleaned. The contacts get carbon build up, same goes for the wiper switch on the column.

You might try cleaning everthing you can get at on the old maf and put it back on the car. Brake cleaner and di-electric grease do wonders for worn out parts.

[rrwebster]

Originally Posted by mattdavis11

I don't know much about the fuel\air stuff, but the window switches probably just need to be cleaned. The contacts get carbon build up, same goes for the wiper switch on the column.

You might try cleaning everthing you can get at on the old maf and put it back on the car. Brake cleaner and di-electric grease do wonders for worn out parts.

the fuse blows on the windows even without trying to operate them... sounds like a short... waiting on the manuals to come to attach that one.

[mattdavis11]

I'd clean the switches regardless. You'll probably find the problem (if it is a short) in the wiring at the door jamb. There is a window relay, it's just above the gas pedal, it's red.

[John_AZ]

Originally Posted by rrwebster

and I replaced the number 10 and 11 fuses.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Robert

Remove the 2 fuses you put in. You have a severe electrical problem and you have to get it fixed before you burn the DME engine computer out. There was a reason he lift them out. Something is getting shorted.

Try a different fuel pump/dme relay. We all have a spare in the glove box.

Go to www.TexasBlake.com | Porsche 944 951 | Suzuki Samurai | Garage Tech and read "very Carefully" the documents section of his 951.

Trace the circuit.

http://www.ehadesign.com/~dsmith/924s_Fuse_&_Relays_wwm.pdf

GL
John_AZ

[rrwebster]

Okay...

did some part lookups on Orielly's website and it appears that the new air flow sensor I ordered is the wrong one for a 1983... stuck the original back in and even though I was told it wasn't any good... it fired right up and is running wonderfully again... took it out and put another 50 miles on it and it runs much better than it did yesterday with the wrong air flow sensor.

thanks so much for the links.. they will help until my manuals come... yes I do have a very bad short somewhere but I'll hunt it down.

any advise on tightening up the gear shifter? mine is very sloppy....

thanks again for the advise.

Robert

[John_AZ]

Originally Posted by rrwebster

any advise on tightening up the gear shifter? mine is very sloppy....

thanks again for the advise. Robert

Robert,

I have used multiple fixes on the gear shift lever I will share with you.

First, check to be sure the tiny "E" clip is on the gear shifter where it connects to the shift rod.

If it is there the usual problem is an "hour glass" shape of the gear shifter where it goes into the shift rod.

Yours sounds real bad. You can get 2 plastic inserts to put on the gear shift shaft and insert it in the shift rod. Will last a couple of weeks.

You can get a used gear shift lever on eBay.

Here are a couple more links for you to decide on:
I did this on mine.
924Board.org :: View topic - Audi shift lever refurb

OR
Shift-Fix

OR
Tech-july-03
OR
I tried this too.
Shifter Repair

GL
John_AZ

[ernie9944]

Everything that John mention plus the all important & sometime forgotten ball cup bushing at the base of your shifter ( price here on Pelican new parts catalog $2.50) & if you really wont to have some fun shifting get yourself a Schneel short shifter kit later on, have fun wrenching

[rrwebster]

John and Earnie... thanks for the pointers... I like some of those fixes and checked out some of the options on ebay... ordered a bushing already, I think I'll take mine apart to see just what is causing the slop before I choose and option.

Starting to really like my new toy :-)

[rrwebster]

I opened up the top part of the shifter (interior side) and it's not the shifter at all... the slop I'm talking about appears to be when engaged in a gear!?!?!

does this make sense? what does this mean?

again thanks for your help.

[ernie9944]

Originally Posted by rrwebster

I opened up the top part of the shifter (interior side) and it's not the shifter at all... the slop I'm talking about appears to be when engaged in a gear!?!?!

does this make sense? what does this mean?

again thanks for your help.

Your shifter has a ball at the end of it that goes in that bushing ,the bushing migth be so use up that it causing the ball to have a lot of free play in it ,by what I can gather you order the bushing but did not replace it yet ,usually on a car that old you just replace the shifter lever & all associated parts with new one & be done with it, lever are approx $50.00 depending on where you buy,there is also an ajustment at the linkage back at the transaxle ,may be John can link you to that ,once you get your service manual it will be lot easier for you to know what were talking about since you can refer to it.

[rrwebster]

Ernie,

Thanks again!

Got the short figured out... it was the wires for the missing rear wiper that were just hanging there. the window motors are shot... there is power going to them when I switch the switches but nothing happening at the motor, I've got two of them on order. removed the intermittent relay and that stopped the wipers from running constantly... of course they don't work intermittently now either but it's better than all the time until I get a new relay. I’m in pretty good shape in a short time on this. Sure is fun to drive.

I will be ordering that new shifter rod too.

Thanks again!!!!

Robert

[John_AZ]

Nice work on the short. If the rear wiper wires were just dangling, you might want to check the rear hatch defroster wires that connect to the hatch shocks.
This is also a wire that can short.
BTW---DO NOT replace the hatch shocks. You will have glass and metal separation due the increased pressure of the new hatch shocks.

ernie mentioned the rear shift rod linkage. Go to the back of the car and follow the shift rod. Where it attaches to the transaxle is a small bolt with a security wire. Check to make sure this bolt is tight---DO NOT overtorque. If it snaps it takes days to drill out!

If this is not your problem, it could be wear in the intermediate shift linkage. This is the white plastic piece between the metal rods on top of the transaxle. This part is NLA and you usually get a used on eBay. Here is a picture and explanation from Clarks. The last picture is the plastic intermediate shift piece.

http://www.clarks-garage.com/pdf-manual/trans-07.pdf

GL
John

[ernie9944]

This is a pic of your transaxle if you take a look you,ll see a hole where the shift rod goes through coming from the shifter inside your car & connect to (A) witch is your shift linkage there is a bolt that secure both of them together this is what John is talking about ,like he said make sure not to over torque also if you remove the security wire make sure you put it back on.It's not the easies place to get at ,make sure when jacking the rear that it safe for you to get in there,also remove the driver side rear wheel for easier access beTake your time .

[rrwebster]

Once again thank you both for the info! It’s very much appreciated!!!!!

John... the rear defrost wires are also dangling..... I need to replace the ends as the PO did replace the shocks and it appears other than not positioning them to allow the wires to be replugged in there aren't any problems that I can see with any separation. Seems that all but 1 of the wires are connectable. Those wires at least have a covering over the connectors where the wiper wires didn't.

I had a thought about the windows... thinking maybe they are just frozen and wondered if removing them and working them might get them to move again. the replacements were only $40 ea so it's not a big deal $ wise but it sure would be nice to lower the windows since it's been in the 80's here for a while now.

Ernie, I will check out that transaxle today and see how things look there.


Vibration: I get a low level vibration (1000-2000) RPM that appears to be coming from the lower pulley on the front of the engine. It’s got a bad wobble. Is low level rpm vibration normal on these cars or is this coming from this pulley?

Again thank you for your knowledge,

Robert

[John_AZ]

Wobble on front crank pully.

Do you know how to tension belts?

If yes----
Get a flywheel lock and remove the front crank bolt (150 ft lbs torque)
Remember how they are removed.
Inspect for out of round centers in the pullys
Use a wire cutter pliers to get shaft key out.
Pull out the oil pump sleeve. If you see a groove on the sleeve from the seal--replace. This will stop most of the oil leaks on the garage floor. Put in a new seal.

Vibration:
900 to 1100rpm--usually a bad passenger motor mount.
900rpm and up---usually a balance belt issue with the lower balance belt pully 180 degrees off on the shaft.
2900 to 3300rpm during shifting---bad rubber clutch disc
Any rpm noise in center driveline---bad bearings in the drive shaft

John

[rrwebster]

Okay, tensioning belts is a piece of cake....

took the pully off the crank (4 bolts) using calipers (not that accurate) it appears to be about .015 out of round. I did try it in a couple of different positions and right now it's the least out of round. strange... someone had put washers between it and the crankshaft. I no longer have access to a lathe so I guess I'll see if I can order a replacement. I actually check track of two positions on the crank where it was mounted. Do you think that one of the other two remaining positions will stop it from being out of round?

I see there are three weights on it for balance.

I only have a rubber boot over the shifter and I can see now that the play in it is caused by the shifter being worn but the circle clip is still there. Didn't get a chance today to check out the transmission connection.... there is always tomorrow.

I finally got a picture of it on here... the paint code sticker is gone... is that guards red?

thanks again for your pointers... got my hayes manual today and it's of no value... should have looked closer at the listing for it. Waste of paper.

Robert

[John_AZ]

Originally Posted by rrwebster

Okay, tensioning belts is a piece of cake....

Robert

Not that I doubt your ability on tensioning belts, I just want you to understand that your engine is an interference engine. If the belt is not tensioned properly, the valves hit the pistons----interference engine.

The Haynes explanation of belt tensioning using drill bits is a joke!!!!

Search, read, ask, do not gamble. BUT if you do it wrong, it will only cost another $500 or more to pull the head, do the machine work, get 2 to 4 valves and a head gasket set. Many have been there.

I would check ebay for the pulley or post on the Pelican used parts forum.

GL
John

[ernie9944]

where the pic????

[ernie9944]

Originally Posted by ernie9944

where the pic????

Got her man LOL it is now immortalized look to me like guard red what size are the fuchs on her.