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Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Douglassville PA.
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Rear Hatch Problem

Hey guys the button to unlock the hatch still works but the problem im having is it only seems to be popping the right side and I cannot open the hatch fully unless I use the key.

Any suggestions ??


I tried yesterday to clean the catch on the inside of the latch that recieves the hatch pin it was full of dirt and grease but no luck fixing the problem.

It looks like when you turn the key to the open position the part that opens will open further then when you press the hatch button to open it. Does that make sense ? Its hard to explain.

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87 944
72 914 Sold
84 944 Sold
85.5 944 Sold
78 924 (first car) RIP
Old 11-12-2010, 04:56 PM
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try adjusting the pin(s) a bit upward. if that doesn't work...get a buddy, remove a pin ( i think they are magnitized) open hatch check for magnitization and/or de-magnitization. one man pushes button the other holds pin in place and awaits results. check both sides. by the way...how are the rear hatch "openers" doing. when you "pop" the hatch, i think it should open fully automatically. that might be part of your problem

now go vote on pan gasket
Old 11-12-2010, 08:12 PM
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magnetized?
check cables. they could be hanging up. clean and lube the catches again and work them back and forth. adjust the pins.
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87 951 all stock exc. cup II's /94 968 6-spd, lowered,17in. RUF Speedlines, M030 anti- sways/ 94 968 Tip, Cup II's, otherwise stock
Old 11-14-2010, 12:44 PM
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Left side hatch strut is weak. You will be surprised how the hatch opens with a new pair of struts. Ask me how I knew.
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1993 964 C2 still makes me smile
Retired and work as needed as a pain in the **s.
Old 11-14-2010, 03:19 PM
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They are still the original hatch struts. It seems like the catches move too slow I tried today to take a look at the cable everything at that end seems ok.

The pins are going to be fun I will probally try to just replace them ( I have a pair of stainless steel ones ) problem is they are rusty around the threads and Im afraid they will strip easy. Any tips on removing these.
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87 944
72 914 Sold
84 944 Sold
85.5 944 Sold
78 924 (first car) RIP
Old 11-14-2010, 05:12 PM
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If they are the original struts, they are SHOT. Replace them before you do anything else!
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1983 944 (2002 to now)
3-924's (Sold)
1967-912 (Traded)
NEVER put a used water pump in your car...
Old 11-14-2010, 07:19 PM
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do you have a parts catalog? if you do, then check out how the pin is mounted. it is on a plate that can be removed if you are worried about stripping the threads. just make sure to loosen the lock nut before turning the pin.
if you loosen the locknut and spray some penetrating oil on the threads, it may come out fairly easily, since you have new pins, you could use vice grips to remove them.
i agree that a weak strut is a cause for a no unlatch situation, when the motor actuates, the part that actually pulls on the cables only operates for a second, so if the struts are weak, and the gaskets around the pin are worn out, and the cables need to be lubed, and the release latches are sticking,........ you can see that there are a lot of possibilities.
when the key is used, it is a direct link to the mechanism. the 968 has a microswitch in the lock cyl. that actuates the motor, so if the batt. is dead, you can't even open the hatch.
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87 951 all stock exc. cup II's /94 968 6-spd, lowered,17in. RUF Speedlines, M030 anti- sways/ 94 968 Tip, Cup II's, otherwise stock
Old 11-14-2010, 07:24 PM
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My 924S was doing this. I solved it by tightening the cable a bit. There's an adjusting screw on the cable just by the motor (right hand side just by the light cluster on my RHD car). Turned it a bit to tighten the cable and it worked perfectly. Fixed in about 3 minutes with 0 expense. If only every fault were the same.

Mike

Old 11-15-2010, 11:02 AM
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