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My Projects, How does this sound
Alright, right now I have a new thermostat, tempature switch and fan resistor sitting here waiting to be put in. What kind of coolant should I buy and how many quarts do I need. I have a bottle of the Prestone flush so I am going to flush the system as well. How much total coolant do I need? Can I properly bleed the system without having my heater working?
I had my timing belt changed two years ago this summer when they changed the clutch. I had it retensioned last summer. The thing is, I have no idea when the water pump has been changed. Is their a way to tell if it is any good. Should I replace that while I am doing these other things? If I end up changing the water pump, what else should get changed? Do company's still rent out the special tool? I also have an oil leak, I would like to get the front engine reseal kit from pelican for $85.10. The kit includes the camshaft seals, balance shaft seals, flanges, oil-pump seal, and o-ring. I would like to know if I should also get the complete gasket set for oil cooler/housing for $37.90. That kit includes: 1 Oil Filter/Cooler Housing Gasket, Oil Cooler to Housing Seal, 1 Oil Cooler to Housing Spacer Washer, 2 Adjusting Shims for Oil Cooler, and 2 Oil Cooler O-Rings. Do I need both of these kits? Should all these things be done at the same time or should I do one thing and then take a break and then do another thing? I don't really want to take things apart more than I have too. Am I getting in over my head with this list of things to do? Can anyone pretty much do these things? I think this is everything, hopefully I will start ordering some more parts on Friday. Thanks guys! |
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Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Viera FL
Posts: 5,642
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Any coolant rated as Dex-Cool safe is good for your car. The capacity of the cooling system is 2.2 Gallons. If you are using a chemical flush - read the directions carefully - Rinse out and drain the system completely after using it
A working heater system is highly encouraged for a proper flush/bleed, as air tends to get trapped in the heater core - why isn't your heater working? Water pumps tend to either leak or make noise when they are in their death throes - as long it isn't doing that, I wouldn't say it is necessary to change it. On the other hand, if you are going to be tearing out everything in the front to change seals, you can if it will make you feel better. Oil seals: Sure, you can replace your oil cooler seals - you will also need a tool to make sure everything lines up properly (they sell it here at pelican for $20 or so) Oil cooler seals aren't difficult, but the job is time consuming - DO NOT DROP THE OIL COOLER! Lastly, if you are going to change your front cam seal - Determine what kind of bolt (hex or cheesehead) is in the front of your camshaft (under the distributor rotor) - you will need the appropriate bit mounted on a large breaker bar, as well as a large 32mm wrench, a second person to hold one of the wrenches is helpful. - DO NOT, under any circumstances, strip out that center bolt - Drilling a bolt out of the end of your camshaft can cause all sorts of hideously expensive damage... (I have pictures of the assembly if you need them) AFJuvat |
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I want to second AFJuvat's comments:
The PO on my 83 944 replaced the cam cover gasket and totally messed up the re-assembly of the cam pulley / bolt. Having just replaced the camshaft because of what seemed like a small dent in the wodruff key hole that got bigger and bigger with time, I seriously urge you to do the job with care. Getting a new bolt for the cam end isn't a terrible idea. You could pick one up from a porsche dealer or maybe even online somewhere and it shouldn't cost too much. The idea I'm pushing is this: if the bolt has been stressed through daily use, why not replace it and torque it carefully to specs? That way you know it's on there to the best of your ability and the chances of damaging the camshaft / valves over the next 30000 miles is greatly reduced.
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Jake 1983 Euro 944 (Mine) 2000 BMW 323i (Hers) 1997 Sentra (unclaimed!) |
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