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Registered
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: LEEDS ,UK
Posts: 2,169
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speed & reference sensor mounting
a small part of the block has broken away around the bolt hole for the bolt that goes through the round hole in the sensor mounting bracket. I have a new "tensioning sleeve" as Porsche calls the split sleeve that goes around this bolt. Should this sleeve be fitted into the bracket or into the block?
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1986 924S bought new. Now used for AutoX and street. Chipped, throttle cam, highflow filter in original airbox/snorkel, 14mm rear sway Hyundai Ioniq hybrid daily driver Vindicator Vulcan V8 spyder, street legal sports racing car (300hp,1400 lbs kerb weight) used for sprints on circuits, and hillclimbs |
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10-02-2012, 03:13 AM
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Location: LEEDS ,UK
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Or can I just dispense with this sleeve altogether?
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1986 924S bought new. Now used for AutoX and street. Chipped, throttle cam, highflow filter in original airbox/snorkel, 14mm rear sway Hyundai Ioniq hybrid daily driver Vindicator Vulcan V8 spyder, street legal sports racing car (300hp,1400 lbs kerb weight) used for sprints on circuits, and hillclimbs |
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10-02-2012, 03:14 AM
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Proprietoristicly Refined
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: ~Carefree Highway~
Posts: 5,833
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Quote:
The tensioning sleeve is the pivot for the reference sensor bracket/reference sensors to get the accurate gap. Can you put the tensioning sleeve in the block and fill the missing area with a steel epoxy paste or is the engine block hole for the sleeve damaged beyond repair (too big)?  GL John
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1988 924S, 85,750K ..+ 1987 924S, 154K DD (+15K est. bad odo) |
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10-02-2012, 04:42 AM
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The problem is that the hole still has thread at the bottom but it doesn't compress the tensioning sleeve tightly enough to be able to fit the sensor bracket hole over it. I had to compress the sleeve quite a lot to get it into the bracket hole There is some of the sleeve still protruding from the bottom of the bracket hole so can I just install it thus and then put grease(as a mould release) on the sleeve and bracket bottom face and fill in the gap with JB Weld or similar?
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1986 924S bought new. Now used for AutoX and street. Chipped, throttle cam, highflow filter in original airbox/snorkel, 14mm rear sway Hyundai Ioniq hybrid daily driver Vindicator Vulcan V8 spyder, street legal sports racing car (300hp,1400 lbs kerb weight) used for sprints on circuits, and hillclimbs |
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10-02-2012, 08:02 AM
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Proprietoristicly Refined
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: ~Carefree Highway~
Posts: 5,833
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Quote:
 Here is a picture of the rear engine and sensor bracket installed (with TDC sensor).  Trying to understand... You have only a couple of threads left in the block for the bolt that passes through the tensioning sleeve into the block and tightens the sensor bracket to the block. Have you tried a slightly longer bolt? The normal repair is to use a thread repair-heli coil. You might have enough room if your hands and fingers are real tiny. If the threaded hole has a piece missing--chipped off ---using a steel putty may not hold or may prevent accurate movement of the sensor bracket and alignment for the proper sensor gap. Decisions ??? GL John
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1988 924S, 85,750K ..+ 1987 924S, 154K DD (+15K est. bad odo) |
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10-02-2012, 09:24 AM
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 8
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Had the same issue with the same bolt. In my case there were enough threads remaining in the block that the bolt would tighten properly. I just put a new sleeve in the bracket and everything bolted in as it should. So far... no problems.
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10-02-2012, 02:12 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: LEEDS ,UK
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Thanks guys-will try this Sunday
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1986 924S bought new. Now used for AutoX and street. Chipped, throttle cam, highflow filter in original airbox/snorkel, 14mm rear sway Hyundai Ioniq hybrid daily driver Vindicator Vulcan V8 spyder, street legal sports racing car (300hp,1400 lbs kerb weight) used for sprints on circuits, and hillclimbs |
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10-03-2012, 12:51 AM
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