rear hatch lock

[SACKO7]

Hello, I am in dispair, I have stripped down my 944 back to shell for repainting. After refurnishing 95% of the car, I have come to a dead end. I cannot figure out how the short RH (standing from behind on a RH drive car) cable and lock fits back into the rear compartment, I have tried every which way but loose, but I cannot get it. Does anyone know where I can get a picture or a drawing of the assembly in position, I have a Haymes manual which claims complete strip down and rebuild but it does not show the rear hatch at all. It is the length that goes from the electric motor to the central key, but I cannot figure out the fixing at the key end. Any help greatly appreciated.

[porschetub]

They are rubbish,I removed mine and the key always works unlike the motor system.

[Gawernator]

Lol I have no idea how to get that electric one to work properly...

[Guest765]

Even if the little motor is good and works the hatch release button only actually opens the hatch of you have good strong hatch pistons. If those are strong enough to lift the hatch, theyll eventually separate the glass though.

[rhett]

Hi there, if you do a search in the forum you should come across some useful info and pictures, etc.

Try looking for these threads:

• 944 rear hatch mechanism
• Trying to put together my rear lock n hatch arms

Hope that helps, other topics might also prove useful.

[rhett]

Originally Posted by fwayfarer

Even if the little motor is good and works the hatch release button only actually opens the hatch of you have good strong hatch pistons. If those are strong enough to lift the hatch, theyll eventually separate the glass though.

Don't want to hi-jack this thread, but I have come across the above statement a few times now and I am intrigued as to how the hatch lift pistons separate the glass.

The way I see it is, the glass is bonded to the frame, the pistons act on the frame, they do not exert any independant force on the glass itself. When the hatch is closed, the pistons are pushing in a horizontal axis. Now this might cause a degree of twisting at the piston mount, but looking at just how beefy the metalwork is, I kinda doubt it. When the hatch is released, the entire force is slowly transferred to the frame (and glass) in an arc aiming for vertical. Nothing is acting on the glass directly, it is being lifted via the frame. To help a separation, surely some external force needs to act on the glass?

However, fatigue due to road vibration, thermal cycling, slamming the hatch shut, and UV breakdown will all cause the bond to fail, let alone the fact that it is getting old. These gradually-operating causes are probably more likely to contribute to any separation, not the pistons themselves.

I may have gotten this all wrong though...??

Just as an aside, I have never actually come across a case of this happening over here in the UK. That doesnt mean it doesnt occur, but I have never seen it and I have looked at a lot of hatches in my time! Perhaps the more extreme environmental issues (heat and cold) are more to blame?

[kfray]

A few pictures of my 87 hatch latch
Good Luck
Keith

[SACKO7]

Thank you all so much for your replies, this forum is brilliant for novices like me, It is all working and so initially I would like to keep it original, Thanks again

[Guest765]

Originally Posted by rhett

Don't want to hi-jack this thread, but I have come across the above statement a few times now and I am intrigued as to how the hatch lift pistons separate the glass.

The way I see it is, the glass is bonded to the frame, the pistons act on the frame, they do not exert any independant force on the glass itself. When the hatch is closed, the pistons are pushing in a horizontal axis. Now this might cause a degree of twisting at the piston mount, but looking at just how beefy the metalwork is, I kinda doubt it. When the hatch is released, the entire force is slowly transferred to the frame (and glass) in an arc aiming for vertical. Nothing is acting on the glass directly, it is being lifted via the frame. To help a separation, surely some external force needs to act on the glass?

However, fatigue due to road vibration, thermal cycling, slamming the hatch shut, and UV breakdown will all cause the bond to fail, let alone the fact that it is getting old. These gradually-operating causes are probably more likely to contribute to any separation, not the pistons themselves.

I may have gotten this all wrong though...??

Just as an aside, I have never actually come across a case of this happening over here in the UK. That doesnt mean it doesnt occur, but I have never seen it and I have looked at a lot of hatches in my time! Perhaps the more extreme environmental issues (heat and cold) are more to blame?

Think about it. The frame always separates at the TOP of the hatch. The pistons are rear biased, meaning when they push on the frame they're pushing towards the rear of the car due to the angle they're mounted at (just look at them). When they push like that over time it stretches the frame away from the glass which is not elastic, like the steel of the frame.

The pistons continue to push on the frame 24/7 just because the hatch is closed does not mean they still don't have that "spring force" of the gas pistons pushing rearward on the frame.

[rhett]

Originally Posted by fwayfarer

Think about it. The frame always separates at the TOP of the hatch. The pistons are rear biased, meaning when they push on the frame they're pushing towards the rear of the car due to the angle they're mounted at (just look at them). When they push like that over time it stretches the frame away from the glass which is not elastic, like the steel of the frame.

The pistons continue to push on the frame 24/7 just because the hatch is closed does not mean they still don't have that "spring force" of the gas pistons pushing rearward on the frame.

Well, thats the thing, I did think about, as I said, I havent actually seen one separate so did not know that they always go at the top. If someone has a photo of this problem I would lke to see it..

I fully understand that the force remains pushing on the frame when the hatch is closed, however once closed, the hatch pins come into the equation as a pretty good stop.

It's all very interesting..

[Guest765]

I mean you don't have to believe me, but simply put that the biggest cause of separation is the hatch pistons. I'm not saying that is the only reason and I'm sure other stuff like thirty years of age comes to play like you said. Its clear that those who have replaced the hatch pistons and then had separation shortly after have reason to believe it was the pistons that were the final straw.

[rhett]

Went and did some digging back in the forum, seems that this has been one of those recurring topics over time, many people have entered the debate with ideas and opinions and experiences..saw some photos too. It seems the concensus of all that is:

Poor design (but it has lasted 20+ yrs), frame material too soft, bonding getting old and cracking due to UV, heat, vibration, etc. as well as strut pressure.

I think I will bow out of this one until it happens to me...but I sure hope it doesnt!

[Guest765]

Oh it will, its going to happen to every single 944 hatch given enough time, there's nothing you can do but wait sadly. And I'm serious when I say sadly, because I never found a reliable safe or cheap way to fix it once it started.

[rhett]

Hi fwayfarer .. didnt see your reply until after I posted mine! Yep, agree with what you say there.

All the best..